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2pumped2climb
Nov 4, 2004, 3:06 AM
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hanging on a sloper in the gym with my ring and middle finger. Hand went "pop" and hurt at the base of my ring finger. i have no idea what happend, it doesn't hurt to the touch, only when i put a lot of down pull on that finger. what is it/how do i get it better?
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coldclimb
Nov 4, 2004, 3:18 AM
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Rest until it's better. Not what you WANT to hear, but it works.
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drrock
Nov 4, 2004, 3:19 AM
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You have a pulley injury, almost certainly.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42987&highlight=pulley
Take it easy and it will heal.
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drrock
Nov 4, 2004, 3:20 AM
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I copied this from a prior post.
In reply to: With my pulley rupture it took about 3 months to fully heal. But sounds like yours is not a complete rupture-- which has pros and cons. With a complete rupture there is no more pulley to irritate and make worse. The tissue just needs to scar down to stop hurting. It should hurt too much to be able to climb at all on it for about a month. With a strain (which I had the pleasure of experiencing in about April of this year) if you climb on it, it just delays the healing process. So the pulley that is strained is just irritated each time you climb, but it usually doesn't hurt *that* bad to prevent you from climbing. So it is frustrating to just stop and let it heal. This is based on the thinking that you have a pulley injury, which of course you might not! You also might get lucky and heal quicker. Ice is good. I iced after climbing if it felt a little tweaked and it seemed to help a lot with the pain, I have no idea if it actually made it heal quicker or what. Good luck. |
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pulldownfrenzy
Nov 4, 2004, 3:42 AM
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I know exactly how you feel dude. I happen to be suffering from the exact same injury.
I took a week off from climbing and now I only feel it when im slapping at slopers. It'l go away eventually. Like other people said-the less you strain it the sooner it'll heal.
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stuckinmidwest
Nov 4, 2004, 3:49 AM
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Make sure you take it easy for a while. Even after you don't feel pain anymore, make sure you tape that joint to help keep some pressure off it. I pulled my A2 pulley in my right ring finger falling out of a pocket. I climbed less but when i did i taped it and it only hurt a bit after climbing so time and taking the precautions should heal it within3-4 months.
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overlord
Nov 4, 2004, 3:49 PM
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most likely a pulley. rest is the best cure for those. but luckily they heal faster than tendons.
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cactusjack
Nov 4, 2004, 4:14 PM
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If you have insurance see a doctor!!!! Last month rock and ice or climbing had a whole article on this issue. Do not attempt any pinch grips or other stlye which elongate the fingers, slopers are actully the best hold since they support the hand and the pulleys (info taken from the article). Either way no climbing for a while, but I'd see a doctor to prevent further injury and to insure its healed before I'd start again. Oh, lots of ice. Good luck.
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greyicewater
Nov 4, 2004, 4:22 PM
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yeah, that happened to me once. it took about 2 or 3 weeks before i could climb easy stuff, but about a month or so before i could start climbing hard again. tendons take a while to heal. it takes a very long time to heal completely. that happened probably 5 or 6 months ago, and i'm just now able to pull on pockets...
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cactusjack
Nov 4, 2004, 4:31 PM
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i think that article was in Rock and Ice Issue #134: 2004 Bouldering Issue, but their web site sucks, so you can't look up past articles on line. Some one stole ours otherwise I'd send it to you.
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angelaa
Nov 4, 2004, 6:32 PM
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I injured my pulley as well, not that bad, but I know at least a little of what you're going thru. .
It has been bugging me for a month now, and I went out climbing last weekend and while working a route it was killing me and really the only thing holding me back. So I spent about 4hrs searching the internet to find out what the heck was wrong.
The first link explains it pretty well . . . for the layman anyway. .
http://www.holdz.co.uk/injuries.htm
http://www.physsportsmed.com/...997/05may/jebson.htm
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2pumped2climb
Nov 7, 2004, 9:37 PM
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Thanks to everyone who replied.
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rock_junkie
Nov 7, 2004, 10:44 PM
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Its a puller, You jhave to stay off it if you want to heal fast. This used to happen to me, then I got one of those metolius squeeze balls. They help prevent those types of injuries.
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shanz
Jul 17, 2006, 10:34 AM
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I know this is an old thread but thanks for the info - was at the gym last night first bouldering route pulled down on a smaller hold - heard a pop, no real pain unless i pull down on it, seems a bit swollen but not too bad. Got on the hang board slopers were not a problem so i got in a bunch of pull ups and worked core. Sucks that this year seems to be the year of injury for me just came off a broken foot just to have this crap happen. Spoke with several others at the gym and since i really dont have much pain i may have just rolled the tendon rather than tore it if so then a few weeks ill be back to hitting it hard again. Seems like this year since i have been in the gym i have had more injuries than the previous 5 years outdoors. Maybe ill cancel my gym membership use the hangboard at home.
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