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akicebum
Nov 5, 2004, 9:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2003
Posts: 258
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Being naive and getting in way over my head has been my learning style for the better part of 21 years. I am now convincing myself that rather than getting proficient with the traditional aid style (which I have done a little with) I should spend my time working speed teqniques. The only reason i want to spend any time learning to aid is so that if it becomes the choice of aiding or bailing in the mountains I can make the route go.
I also have ambitions of climbing in Patagonia. I am a decent trad climber and am building plenty of mountain experience, but aiding sucks the life out of me. I reasoned that if I learned to climb fast I wouldn't develop any bad habits or habits that might make me less desicive in the mountains. I hate hauling gear, I have no issues with exposure and I have full confidence in my gear placements. While I don't intend on trying this on A3-A5 routes I think it would be a good way to up the learning curve. Especially on clean aid routes where most can be freed. Anyway, I am just looking for some feedback on what the draw backs and advantages might be.
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petsfed
Nov 5, 2004, 9:36 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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For a few moves of aid, an alpine aider or hand tied "speed aider" will do wonders for you. A speed aider is a double runner with a small clip loop in the top, then 2 or 3 steps (depending on how big your shoes/boots are) tied in. That is your only aider. It means hanging from a piece before you have your aider attached to it, but it is incredibly efficient for bolt ladders and easier aid. You do end up making more placements though, so you'll end up back cleaning a lot, but when you have to aid, it works well.
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lambone
Nov 18, 2004, 3:40 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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I would say that if you hope to climb big walls in Patagonia, then you should learn how to aid climb the traditional way first. Take those skills to Yosemite and practice climbing big walls fast. If you enjoy free climbing on big walls then do routes like the Salathe, Nose, North America Wall, and Regular on Half Dome. Do some Alpine walls like Mt Conness and Keeler Needle. Go up to Washington State and learn to suffer in shitty weather.
Once you are proficient at aiding, then trip the fat and learn the techniques that allow you to aid faster. You can't really implement these techniques with out having aid climbing experience.
That's probly the normal progression for someone aspiring to climb big routes in Patagonia (mine at least).
....but reading your post it almost seems like your asking how to french free on trad routes, in that case just grab the freaking sling and yard up...
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