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What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead?
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sportyj


Nov 9, 2004, 6:18 PM
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What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead?
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So I lead a nine in Jacks Canyon...but is that REALLY a nine? (I hear they are super soft!) So I feel like I am ready to start leading REAL nines. I would like to this weekend. Here is what I am looking for:

1 - WELL protected, no RUNOUT!
2 - Not overly thin, or slab, give me some features here, some pockets are always nice! :)
3 - FUN FUN FUN!

So what do ya'll think would be a good one for me? I was thinking either: Ride the Wild (Lower Looner, QC), Ferocious Flo (Throne, QC), Gigglin Marlin (Atlantis, QC) or Daughter (Lower Looner, QC - Already attempted this one on lead a while back when I was not ready for nines) or even Mt. Lemmon is in the question. I know numbers are not a huge deal, its just part of pushing myself that is all. Just looking for osme opinions here! THANKS!!!


sed


Nov 9, 2004, 7:14 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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I assume you mean sport sporty.
Ah jeeze, here we go. and first of all a 5.9 in jacks AINT a 5.9 most other places, but who cares anyhow, just get on something and try it.

Gigglin martin's quite good
Ride the wild is ok.
there's a couple of fun nines at dromedary peak and this is a good season for that crag. there's Singin in the rain and Sunny delight, both fun 5.9's.


sportyj


Nov 10, 2004, 5:57 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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YES that is what I was trying to say...I am NOT counting my 9 lead at Jacks as my first nine. I do not think it counts, plus QC's and Mt. Lemmons ratings are quite stiff (or at least tend to be) so I would like to lead something there.

What is going to be the least scary? Is Giggling Marlin pretty straightforward? I am thinking that wil be "it"!


msbrenne


Nov 10, 2004, 6:01 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Hey, Ride The Wild was one of my first 9 leads. Highly recommend it to a novice its well bolted, short, and fun.


msbrenne


Nov 10, 2004, 6:02 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Hey, Ride The Wild was one of my first 9 leads. Highly recommend it to a novice its well bolted, short, and fun.

I would not recommend the goblen at Superstition Mt as it may be considered run out long and scary.


climbsomething


Nov 10, 2004, 6:14 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Giggling Marlin might have a pretty high first bolt for a new 5.9 leader, if I remember correctly.

If you don't think it's too cold, bundle up and do There's No Place Like Home or ...And Toto Too at Munchkinland at Lemmon. They're not overly sustained, but they're not soft either. Likewise, if you have thick blood (it is in the sun), try Popeye at the Pit in Flagstaff.


sportyj


Nov 11, 2004, 8:47 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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NICE suggesstions, THANKS! I am going to see if I can get up the guts to do RTW today. But may be down in Tucson (I LOVE Munchkinland so I would bundle up for it!) for the weekend so if that doesn't happen then I will check out the two that climbsomething recommended.

Yeah I remember thinking the first bolt on GM was a bit up there...we shall see!

I am also going to look at Virgin Vinyl today in Looner...anyone climbed that one?


grippedclimer


Nov 11, 2004, 8:57 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Go do Magnolia Thunderpus*y in Prescott on Granite Mountain. That route is a solid nine and will give you some insight on your abilities, hint hint.

Grippedclimer


epic_ed


Nov 11, 2004, 9:31 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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And it's definitely not a sport climb. I'm guessing she isn't looking for a multi-pitch, old school AZ granite trad route that involves some off-width and crack climbing skills.

Ed


rradjc


Nov 11, 2004, 9:32 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Lovely, Magnolia is a true granite mountain 5.9 you ornery little man...


sportyj


Nov 11, 2004, 10:25 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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OH YES I WILL be getting into trad climbing and WILL be heading to prescott when I have done so. BUT I have only been climbing for about 5 months and need to get real comfy on sport before I move into trad. I have donea bit of mixed climbing though...trad is so cool! 8^)


grippedclimer


Nov 11, 2004, 10:45 AM
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oops. I did not know those were all sport routes listed. My mistake.

Grippedclimer


crimpandgo


Nov 11, 2004, 11:34 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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I thought ferocious flo was a had 5.9 for a 5.9 lead. Getting over the bulge was a bit difficult, but very satisfying to accomplish. Ride the Wild is good too. There is another 5.9 on the next wall up from Ride the wild (left if looking at Ride the Wild). I forget the name. That was my first 5.9 lead and quite the pain in the butt. I have gone back to it and it still give me trouble. I would recommend it :) if I find the name, I will post an update. There a few 5.9/5.10a in Atlantis that would be nice. Atlantis tends to be a bit soft in my opinion, so I think at least 2 of the 10A's could be within reach and are well protected.

Edited: the 5.9 is "grasping at/for straws"


crimpandgo


Nov 11, 2004, 11:45 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
NICE suggesstions, THANKS! I am going to see if I can get up the guts to do RTW today. But may be down in Tucson (I LOVE Munchkinland so I would bundle up for it!) for the weekend so if that doesn't happen then I will check out the two that climbsomething recommended.

Yeah I remember thinking the first bolt on GM was a bit up there...we shall see!

I am also going to look at Virgin Vinyl today in Looner...anyone climbed that one?

I have troubles with Virgin Vinyl every time I climb it. Tends to be very edgy instead of pockety like other climbs at QC. I lead in the range up to 10b. Always think I should not have troubles with this climb because of its grade. I think if you are comfortable on edgy stuff you would be fine :) I have climbed it on top rope many times and I do feel the grade is accurate.


sportyj


Nov 11, 2004, 9:14 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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CRIMPDANGO - Thanks for the advice! I guess seeing as I have climbed so much at QC I am pretty comfortable on crimpy edgy stuff. I looked at it (Virgin Vinyl) today and it looked thin, but I liked the looks of it...we shall see. I didn't lead it, nor climb it. I was not in the mood for pushing my lead today. Although my husband was and got his first nine on Ride The Wild. I then TRed it twice to get a good feel for it, but still feel its a bit reachy and dynamic for my FIRST lead. Although I am aware that if you can climb something clean on TR you SHOULD be able to lead it, there is just something about that climb that I am not that fond of. WHO KNOWS? I am going to check out Flo this weekend, looks fine other than the bulge. What if you go to the right of the bulge? Does that make it a bit easier? I have heard Grasping for Straws is a toughie!!! Some say 9+ I think I will steer clear of that! I saw another 9 in Garland Area that looked pretty dang cool, maybe I will check that out! Basically I just need to get up the guts and DO SOMETHING rather than talk about it! HA!


brianinslc


Nov 12, 2004, 8:12 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
So I feel like I am ready to start leading REAL nines. I would like to this weekend. Here is what I am looking for:

1 - WELL protected, no RUNOUT!
2 - Not overly thin, or slab, give me some features here, some pockets are always nice! :)
3 - FUN FUN FUN!

The Mace (standard route)? I hear that's a real nine...

-Brian in SLC


crimpandgo


Nov 12, 2004, 8:30 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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sprotyj,

Definitely consider Flo. Its a great climb. There is a bolt right on the bulge (dont know if you can see if from teh ground). You end up going right of the clip but not by much. There is a nice hold on edge of the bulge from which you clip and eventually step up. So, not sure you would want to venture too far from the bolt. BUT, I honestly say, the bulge is well protected and a fall (which I did take the first time I led it) is pretty mellow.

also, if you don't mind mixed routes, there is a 5.8 and 5.9 when you first enter the upper devel's area. Again, I forget the names, but I think the 5.8 is moon floss. The routes are well protected but require gear in a horizontal crack. Just thought I would mention them, because I thought they were pretty fun.

Also, Within the pancake house, there is a 5.9 called French toast (I think) gets good ratings. I have not done this one, but have done the 5.7 to the left. Was climbing with my GF and got caught in a Rain storm at the third bolt on that one.. :) Pretty fun as well.

anyway, have fun. Let me know if you do french toast. You can give me beta cause that one is on my future hit list (as is Ride the Wild) :)


asaph


Nov 12, 2004, 8:42 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Did my first lead ever on a 9+ over at the ruin on mt. lemmon... can't recall the name as I have no guide book, but I believe it was the only one rated that way over there. Very good route.

edit: found it in the database... only a 9 here, but whatever. I'm almost certain it was "one green spot". It climbs a water stain up the face.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=4236


joshklingbeil


Nov 12, 2004, 9:08 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Oak Creek Spire is a easy and fun 5.9-. Oh sport climbing, Go crank pocket puzzle 10- at the pond.It will be warm and in the sun.


climbaddic


Nov 12, 2004, 9:13 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Have you thought about going to the Pit. It is same type of rock (limestone) as Jack's but it is much higher quality. I would suggest "Popeye Meets the Burrito Master", which is rated 5.9. This route has some of the biggest holds for 5.9, but at same time it can be pumpy if you move slow. There is another one on the way on the right side of the pit (don't really remember the name). It is dihedral wall. Of course if you get really bold, you can always try area classic called Mr. Slate 5.10b. Mr. Slate has some big holds, but going over the roof can be tricky. Make sure to clip stick first bolt if you are leading that one, cause first bolt is about 25 feet up.

Also, you can always try 5.10 in Jacks. That should be rated about 5.9 anywhere else :)


climberchic


Nov 12, 2004, 11:03 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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I have to second Gigglin Marlin in Atlantis.

This was my first 5.9 lead and my favorite 5.9 in Arizona. It's long, is fun all the way and has rests at all the right places.

Hillary's right about the first bolt, but if you are really sketched out, have your belayer spot you (which they should anyway) or if you really have to, stick clip it. But if you feel you can't make the first moves, just down step a few steps and step down onto the boulder.

Totally worth it. Good luck!


claramie


Nov 12, 2004, 11:40 AM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Giggling Marlin in Atlantis is the best 5.9 sport around Queen Creek. If you're not real comfortable at the grade, I would save Ferocious Flo for later (the first bolt is a little high, the second has a swinging bracket, and the bulge at the top is a little tough).

Popeye at the Pit is ok, but I don't think it's great. Why don't you also just start climbing .10s at Jack's?

Enjoy,

Clayton


michaelmcguinn


Nov 12, 2004, 1:08 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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The best would be Popeye at the Pit in Flagstaff. Then for the trad it would be Isiah at the Overlook in Flag as well. OH YA.

MM


sportyj


Nov 12, 2004, 1:48 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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Wow these are amazing suggesstions thanks guys! And GALS! Has anyone been up to Jacks recently I would think it is a bit chilly for there and I am not really into waiting all winter to get that lead in. We will see though - Sounds like Gigglin Marlin gets the most push. Bulges can be tricky,maybe I will hold off on Flo, there were some nines on the Universe Wall in Upper Devils I was going to look at also but I am leaning toward GM. Maybe I will smaper down there this weekend!

Be back to chat more lata!!!


steelmonkey


Nov 12, 2004, 1:50 PM
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Re: What is the BEST route in AZ for my first 5.9 lead? [In reply to]
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joshklingbeil wrote:
In reply to:
Oak Creek Spire is a easy and fun 5.9-.

Man, you got a huge stiffie off this route, didn't you? I've been climbing a lotta years and I would argue your rating any day (start of the second pitch of the NW Face-West Crack is harder for folks with regular #2 Camalot sized hands), but if you want to call it that, what the heck. I guess in relative terms, the Mace is easier, so what... 5.7+ for that one? We could revamp the whole route directory for Arizona ??

For anyone who really cares, I've done OCS four times by two different routes (as well as a number of other routes in Sedona) and OCS has more loose rock than a lot of towers in Sedona. The rap from the chains at the top (even with double 60m ropes) leaves at least one climber with the job of scrambling about 25' down a relatively easy (but pretty loose) steep gully (not a cool fall if you slip) between the rabbit ears to get to the next anchor. Ropes can get stuck in the loose rock in the gully as well. There is danger of getting your rope stuck on the middle rappel also. Nearly happened to me last time there. To climb OCS safely requires a lot of different trad skills than your basic no-brainer trad climb, so get your ducks in a row before you do it. It's a cool spire to climb, but probably one of the more non-trivial ones you could tackle in Sedona because of the objective dangers.

Go for it, but go safely.

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