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climbsomething
Jun 1, 2002, 8:30 AM
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I posted this here because in the world of trad, I really am a newbie.
So, I've cleaned trad before and in the process gained a whole new respect for the pre-bolted, cool-head days, and now I am thinking about easing into some gear leading. I'm cool with starting mega-easy (I've led up to low 10s on sport by the grace of gawd, but I'd probly pee myself leading past a 6 on trad!) I confess, I am a sport-weenie and I do love my comfy little bolted world, but I also think I should at least get a peek at the other side, it looks fun in a masochistic, I like to scare myself way so, what should I start off with? (aside from competent instruction I plan on it don't worry!!) I don't want to overspend on stuff I might not use for awhile if ever. I was thinking a set of nuts, and cams in the common sizes, whatever those may be, and ...? again, I am a sportgirl right now so I really am clueless. how do hexes compliment nuts? FCUs, TCUs, or even them newfangled 2cams? slung or wired? WAH, I dunno what to do!
sowwee if this topic has been covered, but the forums are soo expansive and the search thingy wasn't working for me...
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bmgard
Jun 1, 2002, 8:52 AM
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A set of nuts is the way to go. Their cheap and usefull. Around here you even need them for some sport routes.
After that play around with a friends rack and see what you like. Cams are expensive so you'll want to buy the right ones. I like Trango flex cams(cheap), and BDs. You may like something better, or something may work bettter where you climb.
I bought a set of nuts first then hexs then cams. Since your a sport climber I assume you already have quikdraws but picking up some 24" slings is a good idea too.
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benfieldj
Jun 1, 2002, 11:05 AM
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A set of stoppers and hexes is probably the best thing to start with. There not as expensive and are relatively easy to use. Make sure you have plenty of extenders 24" and longer, you should extend every piece. Good luck!!
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space_monkey
Jun 1, 2002, 2:22 PM
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I agree with both the two post before me,
1-2 sets of nuts and 1-2 sets of hexs. You
really should buy slings to extend your gear with, other wise it may pull on you. Cams
are an option, you don't need them but they are good to have. Just remember when buying gear, you get what you pay for.
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miagi
Jun 1, 2002, 2:44 PM
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Well here is what I did when I started out:
Considering you have a rope, harness, nut tool, belay ect...
I first started off with a set of ABC huevos at a nice price of $60. At the same time I bought a set of Wild Country Rockcentrics. I already had sufficient quickdraws (15) so the only thing that I bought were about 10 or more 24" slings and 2 48" slings. With the slings, draws, hexs, and nuts, you can start to practice on belay anchors from the ground or a little higher up. That should probably start you off. It's best to lead with someone else so you can test their gear and see what you like. After you have really gotten into it, you should buy another set of nuts most definitely. Other things you can purchase at the same time are: Tri-cams, friends, or more hexs of a certain size if you need them. A cordelette or web-o-lette can also make things easier once you really get into trad.
So, all in all, you just want a bunch of biners and 2-4 lockers, a set of nuts and hexs, 24" and 48" slings, and you should be able to start practicing. Master the world of passive before you start getting into pricey SLCD's.
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crackaddict
Jun 1, 2002, 2:54 PM
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These guys are right start with the passive pro first the work your way in to camming devices.
One set of nuts and hexs plus tricams are cheap and useful for placement in parrellel sided cracks. Especially when you don't have any cams on your rack yet. When you start getting cams buy hand and finger sizes first then work you way to smaller ones.
The best way to go about it after that is the competent instruction. I know you know that already. But what I mean is. Someone that has all the gear and is willing to teach you. Like this guy! http://www.rockclimbing.com/users/list.php?UserID=crackaddict
He has more gear than he knows what to do with. Plus I know that he might be willing to take you climbing to some of the best crack climbing detinations like Indian Creek!
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-06-01 07:57 ]
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couloir
Jun 1, 2002, 3:43 PM
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ABC Huevos are the best nuts out there. Rockcentrics are the bast hexes I've used(the small Metolius hexes are good too). As far as cams go, I'd say go with Camalots since that is what the majority of people go with in the US. Being from Arizona, you'll probably want to get doubles in small cams, so you may also think about Aliens, which rock or Splitter Gear cams which I've heard are good. I'd stay away from TCU's because they just don't sit as solidly as an FCU.
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cragchica
Jun 2, 2002, 2:22 AM
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I stole this link from the Classifieds forum, but thought it was worth repeating here.
I checked it out. There seem to be some pretty sweet deals. But for the sake of us Trad Newbies, maybe somebody out there could point out the real deals...
http://www.wildernessexchangeunlimited.com/
Thanks!
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joemor
Jun 3, 2002, 12:16 AM
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theres an article on this very topic! click articles and have a look!
joe
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cragchica
Jun 3, 2002, 3:50 PM
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I was just readin the new Rock and Ice (the Women's Edition) and there is a fairly informative article about nuts with reviews of just about every set available.
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justgoupfromthere
Jun 3, 2002, 4:48 PM
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If you don't want to empty your pocketbook just yet I would suggest waiting on the cams and start with a set or two of nuts and some of the larger hexes. I prefer wired hexes over ones that aren't because they're a bit stiffer, which makes them easier to place above your head. By using passive pro over active you increase your endurance because it takes a bit longer to get the right size, when with active pro, you just plug and chug. And eventually you'll get better and better at knowing what size will fit best in what crack, which lowers the amount of time fumbling around for nuts. (a skill not used in sport climbing since every quickdraw seems to fit in every bolt. )
Now go out there and have fun!
just-go-up-from-there
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medicus
May 24, 2007, 8:05 PM
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[quote "climbsomething"]I posted this here because in the world of trad, I really am a newbie.
So, I've cleaned trad before and in the process gained a whole new respect for the pre-bolted, cool-head days, and now I am thinking about easing into some gear leading. I'm cool with starting mega-easy (I've led up to low 10s on sport by the grace of gawd, but I'd probly pee myself leading past a 6 on trad!) I confess, I am a sport-weenie and I do love my comfy little bolted world, but I also think I should at least get a peek at the other side, it looks fun in a masochistic, I lik
e to scare myself way so, what should I start off with? (aside from competent instruction I plan on it don't worry!!) I don't want to overspend on stuff I might not use for awhile if ever. I was thinking a set of nuts, and cams in the common sizes, whatever those may be, and ...? again, I am a sportgirl right now so I really am clueless. how do hexes compliment nuts? FCUs, TCUs, or even them newfangled 2cams? slung or wired? WAH, I dunno what to do!
sowwee if this topic has been covered, but the forums are soo expansive and the search thingy wasn't working for me...[/quote]
Resurrected for interest. Climbsomething breaking into the trad world back in '02? I love this post.
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j_ung
May 24, 2007, 8:19 PM
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So... ahem... how'd that work out, anyway?
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lagarita
May 25, 2007, 12:31 AM
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I think that I was basically in the same situation as you are. Except that I was never introduced the world of sport climbing. Living in Connecticut there is no sport climbing and the Gunks is all trad. Now take into account this what my partners used here in the north east. I used the gear that my partners had and figured out what worked and what didn't. I asked alot of questions about their gear and what they really wanted on their racks.
After the initial harness, shoes, belay device and rope I got the nut tool to clean my partners gear. Next was the set of BD stoppers, doubles in the #7,8,9.
During the time between cleaning routes and hauling partners gear around I slowly purchased a decent rack. Next came the tri-cams, pink through blue, double in the pink. Usually every time that I would buy a piece of pro I would get a carabiner or 24" sling to go with it. The hexs, #9 & #10 came next. Around the same time I got a cordalette and a couple 48" slings.
One christmas my wife got me a #.5 camalot and it was all over. from that point on I was focused on cams. I know that you can get better deals on gear buying in bulk or groups of 6+ but I didn't have that kind of money to shell out at once.
My rack was accumulated over 2 years and I am almost to the point were I'm satisfied with it. (who am I kidding, I'm always gonna want more stuff.) 80% of it was purchased through loose change that I saved and money recieved from returning cans and bottles. My wife really drinks alot of coke...
This is my rack:
BD stoppers 5-13 (doubles 7-8)(triples on 9)
Hexes #9 & #10
Tri-cams pink - blue (doubles in pink)
Cordalette 2 each (each with a locking biner)
48" slings 2 each
Trad draws 10 each
Prussiks 2 each
Basic acender 1 each
Camalots .5-4 (doubles 1-2)(each with its own biner)
Power cam #1 (with its own biner)
Sean
(This post was edited by lagarita on May 25, 2007, 12:35 AM)
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meesier42
May 25, 2007, 2:05 AM
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don't forget DMM wallnuts, I love them the odd curves they have work wonderfully.
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studclimber
May 25, 2007, 2:43 AM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2007
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So, pretty much everyone said it, but here's my two cents. Get some nuts and hexes first. a double set of nuts is nice, and a full set of hexes (either bd ones or rockcentrics). If you do end up getting into trad, then start lookin at tricams and cams. but first, go with nuts and hexes
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drfelatio
May 25, 2007, 3:08 AM
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I won't bother reiterating what has already been said, but I will add that you should get a few more biners than you think you'll actually need, especially lockers. You can never have too many, and for me at least, I always seem to run out right when I need one.
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MtnLdr
May 25, 2007, 3:46 AM
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Good Idea, but definitely start of with passive pro. It will give you a greater appreciation for placing pro all together. Once you've got that down, then move on to cams. Finally tri-cams, as i've found them to be solid but tricky if you're not used to placing them.
As always, find either a guide or someone experienced and willing to teach. Otherwise you're just ending up with a guy who's been at the site for a while and likes to hear himself talk. YOU'RE THE ONE WHO'LL GET HURT BECUASE OF THIS!!!!
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climbinginchico
May 25, 2007, 4:15 AM
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PEOPLE THE THREAD IS FROM 2002!
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MtnLdr
May 25, 2007, 4:21 AM
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Goddamn it!!! I didn't check the date on the post. You're right , long overdo for an answer, but, I'm sure there's someone out there thinking that very thing, and anyone answering just gave them the most up to date answer available.
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tanner
May 25, 2007, 4:30 AM
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So... for easy well protected trad this would work.
a few long draws plus your sport draws.
Rack of nuts. Skip #1,2,3(THEY ARE TOO SMALL)
Tricams: pink,red ( CHEEP AND DO THE WORK OF A CAM)
Camalots .5-2 or 3 (FILL IN OTHER SIZES LATER)
Tcu's orange maybe yellow( YOU DON'T WANT THE LITTLE ONES YET!)
extra slings.
Buy the gear you Like even if it costs more!! Buy 3 camalots instead of 6 Getto cams. It will take longer to build your rack this way but its worth it.
Good luck
Tanner
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tanner
May 25, 2007, 4:50 AM
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hOLY CRAP THIS THREAD IS OLD!!!!!
DIDN'T CATCH THAT AT FIRST. 
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medicus
May 25, 2007, 4:54 AM
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Lol... I wasn't even trying to be tricky... I blatantly said I resurrected that one... You would think people would catch that... but nope.
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medicus
May 25, 2007, 4:56 AM
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tanner wrote: hOLY CRAP THIS THREAD IS OLD!!!!! DIDN'T CATCH THAT AT FIRST.
Lol yeah... I pulled it up to see if climbsomething would respond.
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lagarita
May 25, 2007, 11:37 AM
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Wow!!! Well I feel stupid...
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