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5.15c
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Nov 22, 2004, 9:15 PM
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what is the best way to train for slopers? i know tendons play a large role in them, so how do you train those. anything would be helpful. i'm short (5' 1")
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tradnomad
Nov 22, 2004, 9:31 PM
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Try climbing on slopers 8^)
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muncher
Nov 22, 2004, 9:33 PM
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Strangely enough, probably just do as many routes/problems inside and out that contain lots of slopers and insecure climbing. With slopers, how you distribute your weight becomes much more important, as with crappy footholds, the more you weight them the better they will stick. Thus when grabbing slopers you often want or need to be hanging straight down and in very close to the wall such that you can minimise any outward force on your arms. The use of heel hooks, backsteps and drop knees etc will help you here. Hope this helps a bit, no doubt someone else will say it is a load of bollox, maybe it is.
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5.15c
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Nov 22, 2004, 9:45 PM
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i think ur right. one of my friends told me that the closer to the wall you are, the more skin u have on the hold. i used to only climb crimps until a comp in Cali that was all crimps. it hurt my fingers soo bad. slopers r the way to go. builds tendon strength. plus that's basically all of what my friend sets. thanks. keep on replying!
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samuel
Nov 22, 2004, 9:52 PM
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There was a "Tech tip" video posted on climbXmedia (I think) on this topic by Steven Jeffery that might be helpful. The main tips were: 1. get strong open handed 2. find the plumb line 3. use opposition 4. start movement from lower body 5. fool yourself Check the video out to see all the details. Samuel
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thinksinpictures
Nov 22, 2004, 10:11 PM
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In reply to: There was a "Tech tip" video posted on climbXmedia... Unless you know another source for this vid, it's not going to help anyone out much - climbXmedia is loooooong gone.
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samuel
Nov 22, 2004, 10:37 PM
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Yes, I got the video clip long after climbXmedia was gone. Try any of the file sharing networks or something like that. Samuel
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