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spectreman


Nov 27, 2004, 11:41 AM
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one pitch crack routes
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what are your favorite one pitch crack routes?

here's my list:
Spectreman - Vedauwoo
Lunatic Fringe - Yosemite
Max Factor - Vedauwoo


vegastradguy


Nov 27, 2004, 11:58 AM
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Re: one pitch crack routes [In reply to]
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havent done all that many single pitch crack routes, but so far:

The Fox, Red Rocks
Straight Shooter, Red Rocks
Sacherer Cracker, Yosemite
Illusion Dweller, JTree


edited again to amend my list.


brutusofwyde


Nov 27, 2004, 12:21 PM
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Re: one pitch crack routes [In reply to]
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Chingando, Yosemite

Generator Crack, Yosemite

Ipecac, Joshua Tree

Waterchute, Joshua Tree

Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks


esallen


Nov 27, 2004, 12:29 PM
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Owl Rock, Arches National Park

Bushwack Crack, Little Cottonwood Canyon

I love all the cracks on Potash Rd. at Walstreet (Moab, UT)


brad84


Nov 27, 2004, 12:32 PM
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Re: one pitch crack routes [In reply to]
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anyone watch front range freaks? though not pure crack, ive gotta go w/ the wasp. mmm heidi wertz is amazing.

unfortunately it will have to remain on my tick list for a later date.


crackmd


Nov 27, 2004, 12:39 PM
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Indian Creek not otherwise specified. Everything there is amazing!

Speed of Life on Tioga Pass. Although 2-pitches long. I have raved on this site repeatedly about this crack. Read my route post under Ellery Lake Bowl in Yosemite.

Equinox at Jtree. Perhaps the finest crackline I have ever come across. Jtree has a way of making mediocre routes into classics so an amazing splitter like this one is a once in a lifetime find.

Insomnia at Suicide Rock. A steep, classic, varied crack amongst a sea of slabs.


takeme


Nov 27, 2004, 12:39 PM
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Re: one pitch crack routes [In reply to]
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People, have you ever heard of Indian Creek? You're entering a world of pain!


takeme


Nov 27, 2004, 12:45 PM
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A world of pain. But seriously...

No Name Crack, Supercrack, IHC, Black Corner, Excuse Station, King Cat, Fact Cat, Unnammed, Generic Crack, Unnammed, etc. etc. ad nauseum.

Btw, the Wasp in RMNP which someone mentioned is truly amazing, unfortunately I've only flailed up it on TR.


crackmd


Nov 27, 2004, 12:52 PM
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In reply to:
havent done all that many single pitch crack routes, but so far:

Atman- Red Rocks
Grant's Crack- Yosemite
Straight Shooter- Red Rocks

There's also alot of short little boulder problems over at Swan Slab in Yosemite that are really great crack problems.

Your post reminded me of the Eliminator Crack in Oak Creek. Took me half a day to find it, but the effort was well worth it. Best crack pitch I have done in Red Rocks, but I have not done the Atman you mentioned. What and where is Atman?


crackmd


Nov 27, 2004, 12:59 PM
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Re: one pitch crack routes [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Chingando, Yosemite

Generator Crack, Yosemite

Ipecac, Joshua Tree

Waterchute, Joshua Tree

Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks

Dude you are hardcore! I do Generator once or twice a season to keep my OW skills but I never like it. Did Chingando once many years ago; enjoyed it but not rushing to get back on. Have not done the others you mentioned but from the names they sound like the same types of climbs. Hats off to OW afficionados. You are the burliest climbers out there.


petsfed


Nov 27, 2004, 1:14 PM
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In reply to:
A world of pain. But seriously...

No Name Crack, Supercrack, IHC, Black Corner, Excuse Station, King Cat, Fact Cat, Unnammed, Generic Crack, Unnammed, etc. etc. ad nauseum.

Btw, the Wasp in RMNP which someone mentioned is truly amazing, unfortunately I've only flailed up it on TR.

Several of those have a second pitch. Everyone is just too lazy to do it.


takeme


Nov 27, 2004, 1:56 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
A world of pain. But seriously...

No Name Crack, Supercrack, IHC, Black Corner, Excuse Station, King Cat, Fact Cat, Unnammed, Generic Crack, Unnammed, etc. etc. ad nauseum.

Btw, the Wasp in RMNP which someone mentioned is truly amazing, unfortunately I've only flailed up it on TR.

Several of those have a second pitch. Everyone is just too lazy to do it.

Well I'm sure your bad studly self has sent Generic and Supercrack to the cliff top, right?


petsfed


Nov 27, 2004, 2:11 PM
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Well no, but I also know I haven't completed either. I mean, the first pitch of the Bastille Crack is pretty popular, but if you don't top out, you haven't done The Bastille Crack. They are not (by definition) single pitch crack lines. That's what I'm saying. Now Fingers in a Lightsocket, that thing needs a second pitch.


takeme


Nov 27, 2004, 2:31 PM
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In reply to:
Well no, but I also know I haven't completed either. I mean, the first pitch of the Bastille Crack is pretty popular, but if you don't top out, you haven't done The Bastille Crack. They are not (by definition) single pitch crack lines. That's what I'm saying. Now Fingers in a Lightsocket, that thing needs a second pitch.

Thanks for setting me straight.


spectreman


Nov 27, 2004, 2:47 PM
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I thought about listing indian creek routes, but that could take several pages! Any pitch you want to include from IC would probably qualify for this thread.

How about Illusion Dweller at JTree?

Vegastradguy listed Straight Shooter. That is a cool pitch! Further down that wall is a crack pitch called "Out of Control" that is very good. Or for other RR one pitch crack routes how about "Gobies for Gumbies" or "Mazatlan". I also like "Topless Twins" which is next to Straight Shooter.


crackmd


Nov 27, 2004, 4:04 PM
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In reply to:
Well no, but I also know I haven't completed either. I mean, the first pitch of the Bastille Crack is pretty popular, but if you don't top out, you haven't done The Bastille Crack. They are not (by definition) single pitch crack lines. That's what I'm saying. Now Fingers in a Lightsocket, that thing needs a second pitch.

Petsfed, I did not know you were such a purist. I needed your support when the masses were ripping me on opinions that I expressed in the "Zion Anchor" post.


g
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Nov 27, 2004, 4:12 PM
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Atman is definitely a good route and you can see the RDB here.

Mazatlan is also a very cool route.

I haven't been to IC, but I will soon starting hitting those Yosemite routes in full force! :D So until later, I would also say that Walt Bailey Memorial at Devils Tower is a great, long single pitch route (ignoring the approach pitch). There are many single pitches (first pitches on multi-pitch climbs) at the Tower that I would suggest.


crackmd


Nov 27, 2004, 4:15 PM
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In reply to:
Atman is definitely a good route and you can see the RDB here.

Mazatlan is also a very cool route.

I haven't been to IC, but I will soon starting hitting those Yosemite routes in full force! :D So until later, I would also say that Walt Bailey Memorial at Devils Tower is a great, long single pitch route (ignoring the approach pitch). There are many single pitches (first pitches on multi-pitch climbs) at the Tower that I would suggest.

Thanks for reminding me. Mr. Clean at the Tower has to be in my top crack pitches of all time. Go to the Creek Bro! If you dig the tower you will really have a great time there.


vegastradguy


Nov 27, 2004, 4:48 PM
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Topless Twins is a good route....not really all that much crack climbing if i recall, but really good nonetheless.

there's also a 5.7-5.8ish handcrack pitch about 200yds past Sunnyside crags in Icebox. its on the right and incredibly obvious. a really fun route, that one. the rappel anchor is a winner too! :lol:

I really need to start getting on alot of these great pitches out in the canyons...havent done enough of them!

j
ps- theres a great finger crack crux at the top of Frigid Air Buttress that goes .9+


g
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Nov 27, 2004, 5:06 PM
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In reply to:
Thanks for reminding me. Mr. Clean at the Tower has to be in my top crack pitches of all time. Go to the Creek Bro! If you dig the tower you will really have a great time there.
Mr. Clean is a lovely climb!


markd


Nov 27, 2004, 5:09 PM
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as far as red rocks, i'd say the fox, out of control and yin and yang are my favorites.


outdoorsie


Nov 27, 2004, 5:54 PM
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I love all the cracks on Potash Rd. at Walstreet (Moab, UT)

Yeah, it's sad, but not everybody has the rack to enjoy the cracks at Indian Creek. My husband volunteered 30 Seconds over Potash right off the bat when I asked him. For my two cents, Roadside Attraction in the Red should only be one pitch (the second is not worth doing) and is a blast!


alpnclmbr1


Nov 27, 2004, 6:05 PM
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Wine and Roses at fremont canyon
The Prow at the forks
Whimsical Dreams at turkey tail


rocknroll


Nov 27, 2004, 6:22 PM
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Illusion Dweller? Not a pure clean crack like Equinox or my josh favorite:

Double Cross - only 5.8

Reeds Pinn- oops not one pitch
Airy Interlude - damn again, not one pitch
Magnolia Thunderpussy- Granite Mountain AZ
Outer Limits -is that one pitch?
Headache Crack in Zion
V-8 Crack, Cardinal Pinnacle
The Magnus - Rock Creek Canyon
Bombs Over Tokyo - Tuolumne

You know, Josh really does have some good one pitch cracks...


crackmd


Nov 27, 2004, 8:09 PM
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Classic cracks at sport areas have always been real appealing to me. Some of the looks you get when you bust out a rack are priceless. I must add Inhibitor at the Red River Gorge to the list. Overhanging crack perfection with every imaginable size including an awesome chimney. My partner puked after TRing this one and then fell asleep for 2 hours in the dirt. It's a real prize being amongst hundreds of the country's finest sport routes.

The New River Gorge in my mind is one of the country's finest crags because it has 5-star sport routes interspersed with 5-star crack climbs. The finest pitch I did during my 10 day trip there was Leave it to Jesus. This fingerlocking ectasy with bomber pro and a killer finishing crux. Unforgettable and I heard that Chasin' the Wind was just as good.

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