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jcr
Nov 26, 2004, 6:45 PM
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I'm about to read this book, it seems to be pretty recomended by lots of people, but I was wondering....
Has it REALLY helped some of you guys to actally climb 5.12??? Im a 5.10b lead climber, been climbing for a year and months, and seem to be stuck. If I follow the book to the letter will it really make me a 5.12 climber??
Im still reading the book regardless though, just seem to need a boost of confidence in it. Oh, and dont get me wrong, I know I have what it takes to climb at hard grades but Im just wondering if this book has the right methods to get there.
JC
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petsfed
Nov 26, 2004, 6:54 PM
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The title just refers to what many see as the gateway into hard climbing. The book provides a framework for improvement. Being that every 5.12 is different and every climber will approach any given 5.12 differently, there is no sure-fire way to get to that level. The basis of the book is this: build up a good base of easier routes and work up to 5.12. That means if you want to climb 11a, crank a lot of other 10bs, then fewer 10cs, then fewer 10ds, then one "gateway" 11a. Then expand each group until you feel ready to work into 11bs, then 11cs, then 11ds, then 12as and so on and so forth. That's how you work up the grades.
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kshon
Nov 26, 2004, 7:09 PM
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Yes, As with all climbing it is the personal journey that ensures sending 5.12. I will tell you this: I read the book when I was leading 5.9. Not only did the book provide valuable technical advice, but also served as a great motivator. Horst's book provides A LOT of possible problem solving solutions- whether they be physical, mental, motivational, emotional, etc. So it couldn't hurt right? The only sure fire way to climb 5.12 is to climb A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
kshon
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alpnclmbr1
Nov 26, 2004, 7:12 PM
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If you can climb 5.10, you can climb 5.12. The book can give you an idea of how to approach your goal. For now your primary emphasis should be not getting hurt(tendons) and climbing a lot on a lot of different types of rock and styles.
What I really wanted to say was to suggest that you go up to the Animas wall at El Salto (30 min. from mont.) and see if it inspires you to get strong enough to climb on it. Seriously, it is one of the best walls in north america.
The place is supposed to be haunted as well. It's rad.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 26, 2004, 8:52 PM
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In reply to: If you can climb 5.10, you can climb 5.12.
This isn't true. Everyone has a plateau, and there's nothing wrong with that. Some people's limit is 5.10. That's like saying to someone overweight that if they want to, they should be able to lose weight. It's not always as simple as that. There are a lot of mental and physical barriers. I have read the book and got some pretty good info out of it, but to follow it to the letter would take quite the commitment. I don't want to turn my life over to a training regimen. That would completely take the fun out of it for me. I have heard people say that 5.12 should be attainable for everyone and I don't understand this logic. If I want to work a 12 at the gym or crag, I never seem to have to wait. The truth is that not too many climbers get there. And there is nothing wrong with that. I feel that I can be a solid 5.12 climber, but I am not there yet. The total 5.12 leads I have I can count on one hand. So yes, the book is a good supplement, but in the end, it is the amount you climb that will be the most beneficial.
Josh
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kshon
Nov 27, 2004, 4:07 AM
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I agree with you both- if you are strong enough (physically) then you are able to physically climb at least SOME 5.12's. That said, the quest lies within the individual- some may never complete the quest, but many would be able. I mean, thereare a lot of other factors involved than mere physical strength... However, as noted previously by others, if one does not wish to attain the ability to send 5.12- then so be it; Amen. Whatever get ya through the day- whether its crankin' on the hangboard, or poppin' twinkies- to each there own.... as long as it's safe and respectful to all...
Kshon
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kalcario
Nov 27, 2004, 4:20 AM
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How To Climb 5.12
Step 1. Climb with people who climb 5.12.
Step 2. Repeat Step 1.
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cin
Nov 27, 2004, 6:24 AM
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you have to want it as well. Just reading a book, and doing the work won't help you. You have to want it as well.
You can do anything.
Just think about that guy from Texas
who did a lot of drugs
and killed a bunch of strangers.
He got elected President of the United States this year!!!!!!!
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javaguy
Nov 27, 2004, 11:31 AM
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It's a great book. It's dosn't give you the "secret" trick on how to climb 5.12. The only way you can reach this grade is by putting a lot of time into your climbing. I bought this book a year a go. At that time I climbed 5.10b. Now I have redpointet 5.11d. I have learned a lot from this book. But most of all it has motivated me and made me realise that 5.12 isn't that hard.
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andy_reagan
Nov 27, 2004, 1:49 PM
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go ahead and get "performance rockclimbing" if you're going to get how to climb 5.12. You need another perspective to balance out the gross miscalculations that Horst sometimes makes. There is some good info in his books though. I havn't read the 5.12 book, only flipped through it. It looks like a past version of his newest book, Training for Climbing. I'd suggest getting that one.
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anykineclimb
Nov 27, 2004, 2:05 PM
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how about going by your signature. I'll bet you'll get to 5.12 that way
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andy_reagan
Nov 27, 2004, 3:25 PM
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anykineclimb does have a good point, actually. I think the thought processes associated with climbing can help to keep us isolated as a "5.10b leader," whatever the hell that is. An even better book for you to study is your own, a climbing journal. Write down your thoughts and sends from each session so you can start identifying weaknesses in your climbing style. Don't limit yourself to being a "5.10b leader." I find it hard to believe after only a year and change of climbing you have successfully narrowed yourself down that sharply. To feel free to expand your climbing boundaries (and consequentally grade limit), first you have to give yourself the chance.
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areyoumydude
Nov 28, 2004, 1:15 AM
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In reply to: How To Climb 5.12 Step 1. Climb with people who climb 5.12. Step 2. Repeat Step 1.
I have to agree with homo joe on that one.
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pushsendnorcal
Nov 28, 2004, 1:25 AM
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My opinion, is that the book is pretty weak and filled with routines that simply don't work (ie crunches)
The plus on this book is that it is a okay introduction into "training" for the person with very limited knowledge on how to structurely train for climbing.
Note- His newest book Training for Climbing, is just an combination/extension of Flash Training & How to Climb 5.12, no information from his newest book gives the reader the "secret" or great revelation on training
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jamaica
Nov 28, 2004, 2:02 AM
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In reply to: How To Climb 5.12 Step 1. Climb with people who climb 5.12. Step 2. Repeat Step 1.
I also have to agree with this statement, I thought I hit a plateau but I found a partner who climbs 11+s, and now I climb 11s too.
Jamaica 8^)
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curt
Nov 28, 2004, 2:51 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: How To Climb 5.12 Step 1. Climb with people who climb 5.12. Step 2. Repeat Step 1. I have to agree with homo joe on that one.
I agree too, with the caveat that climbing 5.12 sport climbs does not make one a 5.12 climber.
Curt
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