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organic
Dec 3, 2004, 3:48 PM
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Anyone heard anything about this? Some guy at the gym was talking about this, he said it has only been done on aid. hey might be a great project to try and do free. Anyone seen or heard of this big roof?
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andy_lemon
Dec 3, 2004, 5:07 PM
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No. But there is this roof at Hunter's Bluff that has only seen one person climb it in 25 years. Jim Thurmond did the FA of Thurmonuclear's Roof Crack (suposed to be 13a) in '83. Tim Toula, who attempted it, said it was one of the top 10 roof cracks in North America.
I would think that with the improvement of gear, the fast pace at which climbing is expanding, and the abilities that climbers are crankin at, we will see alot of these old sk3wl routes repeated. Before, there were not many people interested in roof crack climbing but now it seems to be trendy. I'd like to see a picture of the route you speak of.
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ironchefcampfire
Dec 3, 2004, 5:31 PM
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There are two possibilities you might be talking about.
Sidewinder (5.12) @ the north end of the Forgotten Wall area. The rest of the area is closed to climbers by the park but locals have told me this climb and Oscillation the 5.8+ adjacent are still open access (if anyone disagrees about access post it to prevent problems) It has a fair sized roof and as far as I know has been climbed but only on top rope.
The other is a 15' tall boulder problem in the Butterwall area with a large roof (so I don't know about it being done on aid)
Hope this helps.
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duality4569
Jan 6, 2007, 4:38 PM
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[quote "organic"]Anyone heard anything about this? Some guy at the gym was talking about this, he said it has only been done on aid. hey might be a great project to try and do free. Anyone seen or heard of this big roof?[/quote]
I believe there may be one over at the dihedrals area...check the guidebook
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cornstateclimber
Jan 10, 2007, 2:59 AM
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dihedrals area has a large roof 50 -60' high nice crack saw it once
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ironchefcampfire
Jan 13, 2007, 6:03 PM
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It's called Wide Glide. Some friends of mine were working on it end of last year. Haven't seen them recently so I don't know if they did it. They said it was a hell of a swing and watch out for rubble when setting.
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duality4569
May 4, 2007, 1:21 AM
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Anyone know if this climb is still a first ascent oppurtunity? Also, is Maybe Someday at Butter Wall still unclimbed?
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photon
May 7, 2007, 7:34 PM
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Didn't this area fall over into the mud a fews years back
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duality4569
May 7, 2007, 9:48 PM
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as far as i know, both dihedrals and butter wall are still there and still open
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