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socalbolter
Dec 3, 2004, 3:39 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=44550
If you like the look of that, perhaps you should check out the Riverside Rock Quarry. It's long been a somewhat popular aid climbing location, but in recent years has seen sport and trad climbing interest. There are now over 130 free climbs, with more to come.
The quality of the climbing is very high and there is little to no approach. There's no real topo for the area yet, but I'd be happy to answer questions or give interested folks the tour. Just PM me.
To see more photos of the area, check my photos or go to the AREA PAGE
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addiroids
Dec 3, 2004, 3:51 AM
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Yeah, but you had better hire two huge black guys to watch your car and carry a shotgun on the approach, and try to not step on the rape panties and syringes on the approach. Scary place.
Why in the hell would anyone go here to free climb when Tahquitz and Josh are so close?
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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shatter
Dec 3, 2004, 5:07 AM
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I don't know about access issues or anything, but there is another rock quary near the Bronson Caves in the Griffith Park area. (Batcave from the Batman movie) and some of the stuff looks very promising. Would be worth a look and or some research. Just a thought for more Cali spots...
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kalcario
Dec 3, 2004, 5:11 AM
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* Why in the hell would anyone go here to free climb when Tahquitz and Josh are so close?*
Because it's not 1968?
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climbsomething
Dec 3, 2004, 5:42 AM
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*bump* :)
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enjoimx
Dec 3, 2004, 6:43 AM
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That place looks cool! If anyone can tell me more about the supposed crime in the area i would be interested. Its a bad part of town or what?
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socalbolter
Dec 3, 2004, 4:24 PM
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it's located just outside of the small town of rubidoux. not the best part of town, to say the least.
i have always parked my car at the base of the walls (going on two years now, very regularly) and have never once had a problem of any kind. the area in general is regularly driven by the local sheriffs and they are friendly toward climbers.
i'll be the first to admit that the surroundings leave a lot to be desired. the climbing on the other hand is brilliant!
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hasbeen
Dec 3, 2004, 5:25 PM
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In reply to: hire two huge black guys
do they have to be black? what if i hired two white offensive linemen from usc?
what about 2 asian guys? couldn't they proctect my car since they all know kung fu?
what about 2 white guys who'er from idaho? 'cause they'll be armed and in a bad mood if forced to stay in riverside since it's population contains hispanics.
and what about 2 huge hispanics? couldn't they just bro with the other dudes who were stealing all my sh^t?
y' know, i think what i'll do is hire two native american guys to watch my car long enough that they can utilizie some type of jim crow/eminent domain/squatters law so that the government just gives them this worthless piece of real estate so we can build a monster casino, make loads of dough, and charge all you suckers to climb.
if you don't want to pay, you'll have to go to joshua tree. then you'll be stuck in 1968, so you might as well just go to woodstock instead.
peace, man.
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jdouble
Dec 3, 2004, 5:34 PM
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Killer. Thanks for the heads up socalbolter.
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trex
Dec 3, 2004, 6:06 PM
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As usual, you are not at a loss for words . . . well said Hasbeen!!
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scottcody
Dec 3, 2004, 6:18 PM
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I thought that place was being taken back by mining company that owned it.... or was that typical "this is my secert area I don't want to share" type drivel that some in our community can't refrin from?
Thanks for the effort in putting up the routes. I'll check it out when I go see my folks over the holiday.
Thanks again.
Scott
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soulsurfer
Dec 3, 2004, 7:09 PM
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I have to agree with Addiroids on this one Hasbeen. In working in that area as a SCE meter reader about 10 yrs ago I would have to say there were a lot of black dudes, or as you would say, 'African Americans'. One of the worse areas for me to work in. One time I was stoped from entering a street because of a swat team getting ready to open a can on da black man!
I now live in White Bread or 'European American' Cardiff with a few Mexican Americans to do our yard/house work and all.
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gamehendge
Dec 3, 2004, 7:30 PM
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Thanks for the info. I will have to check it out. Unless I'm feeling a lil' 1968. :shock:
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mungeclimber
Dec 3, 2004, 8:10 PM
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L,
Are these a lot of new routes recently, or just a slow aggregation of new routes over the last 10 years?
All I remember out there was some sketch 5.10s and some weird aid lines.
Maybe climbers could take over the area and really clean it up.
Adopt a Crag?
I'll be down that way over xmas (when it's cold in Idyllwild)...
I'll check it out.
Thx!!
Munge
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caughtinside
Dec 3, 2004, 8:11 PM
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Nice going Louie, looks steep! I'll have to get down there one of these days and check it out! 8^)
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socalbolter
Dec 4, 2004, 9:41 PM
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OK, I've gotten a bunch of emails from folks looking for more details. I'll try to address some of that here:
-- While there are some crack climbs here (about a dozen good ones, mainly in the 5.11 range), the majority of the free routes are bolted sport climbs. A typical trad rack is required for the crack climbs. A dozen to two dozen draws are needed for the sport climbs.
-- Most pitches are long. A 60-meter rope is mandatory when climbing here. Almost all routes are 100 feet long, with several being 150 feet (and one coming in at 170 feet). On the 150-footers lead to the topmost anchors and then lower to 100-foot anchors. Pull the rope and lower again to the base. This system is known as L-P-L (lower-pull-lower). There are some multi-pitch routes available also.
-- We've tried to find 5.10's to bolt here, but the sad (?) fact is that the routes are long enough and steep enough that even those filled with jugs end up being 5.11.
-- The majority of the routes fall in the 5.11 and 5.12 range, with a few exceptions above and below those grades. There are a few open projects in the 13+/14- range.
-- Extensive cleaning has gone on to knock off the loose rock on the developed routes.
-- Due to the length and highly featured nature of the routes, most would be considered endurance or stamina challenges, with only a select few being true "power" climbs.
-- Most routes are in the shade until about 12:00 and then in the sun for the remainder of the day.
-- I would welcome input on the difficulty, quality or any other aspect of the routes you get on.
-- For those that have checked it out and gotten back to me in the last few days. Thanks for the kind words and I hope you continue to enjoy the routes!
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ikellen
Dec 6, 2004, 6:53 PM
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socalbolter-
Would it be possible to throw some route information into the routeDB here for interested people? Or possibly put together a rough topo? The climbing looks good, but I'm sure those that are not crankin 12's easily would like to know where some of the climbs in 10/11 range are. Is there any possiblity of some moderates being put up? Im not too picky, but I think it would be a nice courtesy to put up some easier routes. Some people might argue that crags where the developers are only putting up hard climbs are elitist crags, and while I dont totally agree with this, I think if there is a possibility for moderate routes then it would be fair to put them up.
Just my .02, excellent work so far!
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jt512
Dec 6, 2004, 6:59 PM
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In reply to: Im not too picky, but I think it would be a nice courtesy to put up some easier routes. Some people might argue that crags where the developers are only putting up hard climbs are elitist crags, and while I dont totally agree with this, I think if there is a possibility for moderate routes then it would be fair to put them up.
The developers owe you no duty to put up routes at your level. They invest substantial amounts of their own time and money to develop routes. You act as if they're getting paid to do this rather than providing a public service at their own, often considerable, expense.
-Jay
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caughtinside
Dec 6, 2004, 7:06 PM
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In reply to: I think it would be a nice courtesy to put up some easier routes. Some people might argue that crags where the developers are only putting up hard climbs are elitist crags, and while I dont totally agree with this, I think if there is a possibility for moderate routes then it would be fair to put them up.
Fair? A nice courtesy? Climbing is selfish! 8^)
If you really want those 10s, no one is stopping you from spending your own time, money and effort to put up 10s. I've always thought it's bullshit to ask others to bolt your routes for you. Climb what they put up, or put up your own.
Who cares if its an 'elitist' crag? If you put up easier stuff, then the crusty traddies will cry that you're catering to the lowest common denominator. :lol:
Looks awesome, I can't wait to check it out!
*To be fair to Louie, it's my understanding that he's bolted many moderates in other areas. Sometimes an area doesn't lend itself to easy climbing.
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asandh
Dec 6, 2004, 7:15 PM
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:wink:
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socalbolter
Dec 7, 2004, 2:12 AM
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ikellen:
I wish there were potential for more 5.10's. There just isn't!
The ones that are there are mainly slabs, other than two steeper 10d's. These were all bolted by me for the enjoyment of others. I usually warm-up on 11+ out there, so it would probably be fair to say that all routes easier than that were bolted for others.
While I think some of the responses to your post were too aggressively worded, the base principle behind their posts is somewhat accurate. I figure the crag is into my wallet for about $6,500 at this point and I'm far from done out there. Although that's a lot of money, it pales in comparison to the hundreds of hours we've put in. I don't say this looking for credit (that's not why I put up routes) - I only offer it as a very real example of the costs (time and money) involved with developing crags. Few people have any idea what it takes for folks to be able to walk up to a nice crag and take their pick of quality routes.
I hope you take the time to go out and enjoy the routes. Due to the highly featured nature of the climbing, most 5.10 climbers can still get to the top of the 5.11's. Most routes have the suggested rating (temporarily) written in small numbers at the base of the route using chalk. This sometimes washes away during rainstorms, but most are still there.
As for topos/route information, none has been prepared yet and at present I'd rather put my time into continuing the development there. When things settle down I plan to put the information together. As mentioned in my post above, I'd be happy to either meet folks out there and give them the tour or try to answer their questions here or privately. Not sure what more I could offer at this time.
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socalbolter
Dec 7, 2004, 3:34 AM
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Sorry Munge, I forgot to answer your question.
Most of the bolted routes are new within the last three years. Let me know when you're heading up and I'll show you around.
Weather's been great lately as So Cal seems to finally be enjoying some winter temps.
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soulclimber11
Dec 7, 2004, 3:41 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: hire two huge black guys do they have to be black? what if i hired two white offensive linemen from usc? what about 2 asian guys? couldn't they proctect my car since they all know kung fu? what about 2 white guys who'er from idaho? 'cause they'll be armed and in a bad mood if forced to stay in riverside since it's population contains hispanics. and what about 2 huge hispanics? couldn't they just bro with the other dudes who were stealing all my sh^t? y' know, i think what i'll do is hire two native american guys to watch my car long enough that they can utilizie some type of jim crow/eminent domain/squatters law so that the government just gives them this worthless piece of real estate so we can build a monster casino, make loads of dough, and charge all you suckers to climb. if you don't want to pay, you'll have to go to joshua tree. then you'll be stuck in 1968, so you might as well just go to woodstock instead. peace, man.
hehehehehe, I will feel safer with "Agent Smith" by my car. :lol:
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ikellen
Dec 7, 2004, 4:32 AM
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In reply to: The developers owe you no duty to put up routes at your level. They invest substantial amounts of their own time and money to develop routes. You act as if they're getting paid to do this rather than providing a public service at their own, often considerable, expense. -Jay
Jay-
I respect your experience and knowledge, and yes I can see your point of view. No where did I intend that the developers "owed" it to me to put up moderates. I was simply giving some input, socalbolter can take it as he wishes. If I knew how to bolt routes, and I was in the area, I would try to take the initiative to try to put up routes, but I do not have the knowledge to, and I wouldn't want to risk the safety of others in this manner. Personally, I can climb in the 11s, so it is not a case of "bolt some routes for me". However, at any crag, there are always the people who end up whining and moaning about all the routes being too hard for them. I was simply trying to possibly alleviate some stress for people.
Please, in the future take a second to comprehend people's posts before blasting them.
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jt512
Dec 7, 2004, 7:26 PM
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In reply to: However, at any crag, there are always the people who end up whining and moaning about all the routes being too hard for them. I was simply trying to possibly alleviate some stress for people.
Trying to alleviate stress? Come on, who are you kidding?
-Jay
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