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rckymntneer
Dec 7, 2004, 8:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Does anyone have any good route info on the Ellingwood arete route up Crestone Needle? The books I have show it with a couple of variations from 5.6 to 5.9, but not much in the way of a topo or what pro is in place, etc.
If you've got some info on the route or know where I could find some, let me know!
Thanks,
Rick (rckymntneer)
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matd
Dec 7, 2004, 10:32 PM
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hey man, the ellingwood arete is awesome and well derserving of its "classic" title.
Basically, as you approach identify the large, kinda shield shaped, obvious headwall. Then follow the path of least resistance, leaning more to the arete side of things, to the base of that headwall (mostly steep 4th and 5th class). At the headwall is were the first bit of "real" climbing starts. Take the friendly looking handcrack up to a small roof and continue up short bursts of "climbing" to the summit. If you find yourself questioning what to do or where to go next, remember that the rout was done in like 1932 by old guys in hiking boots with hemp ropes and pitons. That should answer any questions you may have.
oh yeah, bring your helmet and wear it!
As far as gear is concerned, a standard alpine rack is more that sufficient. Cams up to 3" (1 ea. 2 in .75 - 1.5), sm/med sized nuts, small and med. hexes (beleive it or not) and that will more than do ya.
Be warned however, that the forest service road to get up there is gnarly!! It takes just as long to walk it as it does to drive it.
The best time to do it is in the dead of summer.
enjoy
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rckymntneer
Dec 8, 2004, 7:15 PM
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Thanks for the info! I think I'll try and get down there later this year.
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dm
Dec 8, 2004, 7:35 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2004
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check out:
http://www.naclassics.com/
I think the CD they are selling has a very detailed topo of the climb with different variations
Try the direct start variation if you want make the most of the climb
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climbhoser
Dec 8, 2004, 8:00 PM
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the www.climbingboulder.com link posted above is gonna be your best bet for information on this climb, and feel free to e-mail any of the fellows who have commented and posted Beta
Only word is to watch for Colorado t-storms, very typical and threatening especially in the Sangres...
I would say ditch the hexes, don't double up on any cams and you'll be fine. My rack for this was nuts 4-13, doubles in the small to medium sizes, a set of aliens green through grey and Camalots 1, 2 and 3. Bang. simple, easy, you could even do with less, and there are some fixed pins on the 2 or 3 fifth class sections. Double or twin ropes are nice in any alpine climbing environment because you can back off twice as quick in the event of an impending t-storm. Oh, and definitely DRIVE the road in and camp, but take a real sturdy four wheel drive vehicle.
The direct start is well worth it, as is a link up to Crestone Peak if you're either fast or willing to do a high, exposed bivvy.
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rckymntneer
Dec 11, 2004, 5:32 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Well, for anyone else looking for info on Crestone Needle, I just found mother_sheep's website on the subject at http://coloradoclimber0.tripod.com/id16.html and she has some good photos too. Thanks Tracy!
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alan_ellis
Dec 12, 2004, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2003
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Start very early from either the lower or upper lake. Best to do the ledges before sunrise and reach the red tower by the time the sun is up. After the ledges you come to a red tower feature which may have a few low class 5 moves. Following the tower is about a thousand feet of class 3 and 4 with nice ledges in between. Some people rope up at the red tower, but if you do, get ready for an extremely long day. It's best to wait and rope up at the headwall. Once at the headwall, stay to the right and ascend a very long 180 ft pitch of 5.7 to a ledge. At the ledge, again stay right for a long pitch to another ledge, followed by a short class 3 section to the summit. There are several variations to the headwall including a 5.9 version and a different 5.7 version (described on this site) which starts to the left and which includes a third pitch.
In my opinion, the crux of this climb was the descent. If you've never climbed the south face (descent route), you're in for an adventure. There are a few cairns, but otherwise, route finding can be tricky. Best to bivy if you find yourself on the descent in the dark. The descent is class 3-4 but can quickly turn to class 5 with a wrong turn.
I PMed you some topo info.
EDIT: If you don't have a 4WD high-clearance vehicle, it is easy to hitch a ride from the lower parking lot on a typical summer weekend.
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fire_or_retire
Dec 13, 2004, 6:40 PM
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The Sangres are the place to be. If you're planning on driving to the trail head the day before, climbing, and then leaving I would recommend to simply car camp at the trailhead. It's not that far of a hike from the trail head (2 miles or so) plus you don't have to lug around all of the camping stuff. If you do decide to camp for a few days I would set up shop at lower south colony lake. It's protected more and the descent goes right by it. We did the direct start which is pretty easy to find just follow the climbers trail from the upper lake right up a scree field to the base of a large open book. The first pitch is really run out but there are great cobbles to use. The second picth we climbed a tricky 5.5 face up and left to some easier 4th class stuff. From here just simul climb your way up and right on class 4 and 5 until you're on the ridge itself. You'll know when you're on the ridge because it will drop sharply off into a snow couloir. Follow the ridge and it will take you to the start of two really fun dihedrals. After the dihedrals there is one more pitch with is loose but easy. This pitch puts you right on the summit and it is an awesome way to finish the climb. We left the trailhead at about 4:00 and summited around 12:00 and we're pretty darn average. It would suck to have to bail from the arete so try and be at the base at sunrise. climbhoser's rack is right on for what you need. cheers
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