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Training on a home wall
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cragchica


Jun 7, 2002, 8:15 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 183

Training on a home wall
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I have a home wall that I sort of inherited/purchased when I moved into my new house. The former owner put up some problems that I've been working on for a while, but they are getting old. I would like to put up my own, but I don't have much experience with bouldering (or any kind of specific 'training'). I would love some advice on designing problems and general training techniques.

Thanks!


djpuckle


Jun 7, 2002, 9:02 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2001
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Training on a home wall [In reply to]
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When I get bored I just turn every piece upside down.

Just arrange the pieces in a pattern that you can pull, but feels less then comfortable and takes a few tries. After a week change them again.

Turn a few sideways.

Make sure you use the same pieces for you feet as you use with your hands.(Tracking)

Set some low starts

Set some big Dynos

Set long reaches on small feet to bad holds

mix it up and
Pull, Pull, Pull!
:D


climbjs


Jun 7, 2002, 9:07 PM
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I would add new holds, be creative with your problems, and add variety to training. For example: work on staying on your wall (big holds) for long periods of time, crimp problems, jug problems, etc. Have fun!


justgoupfromthere


Jun 8, 2002, 10:56 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2002
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Set new problems, get more holds, try sit starts, dynos, tracking, make routes that incorporate different technique. Try making an all sloper route, or an all crimp route. (but don't hurt yourself) Use small footholds w/ positive handholds, or large footholds w/ smaller 'less-positive' handholds. Have someone create routes for you so that you have to figure them out. And vise versa. Be creative and try new things as to not get bored.


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