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cragchica
Jun 7, 2002, 8:15 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 183
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I have a home wall that I sort of inherited/purchased when I moved into my new house. The former owner put up some problems that I've been working on for a while, but they are getting old. I would like to put up my own, but I don't have much experience with bouldering (or any kind of specific 'training'). I would love some advice on designing problems and general training techniques. Thanks!
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djpuckle
Jun 7, 2002, 9:02 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2001
Posts: 77
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When I get bored I just turn every piece upside down. Just arrange the pieces in a pattern that you can pull, but feels less then comfortable and takes a few tries. After a week change them again. Turn a few sideways. Make sure you use the same pieces for you feet as you use with your hands.(Tracking) Set some low starts Set some big Dynos Set long reaches on small feet to bad holds mix it up and Pull, Pull, Pull! :D
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climbjs
Jun 7, 2002, 9:07 PM
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Registered: Mar 1, 2002
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I would add new holds, be creative with your problems, and add variety to training. For example: work on staying on your wall (big holds) for long periods of time, crimp problems, jug problems, etc. Have fun!
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justgoupfromthere
Jun 8, 2002, 10:56 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2002
Posts: 50
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Set new problems, get more holds, try sit starts, dynos, tracking, make routes that incorporate different technique. Try making an all sloper route, or an all crimp route. (but don't hurt yourself) Use small footholds w/ positive handholds, or large footholds w/ smaller 'less-positive' handholds. Have someone create routes for you so that you have to figure them out. And vise versa. Be creative and try new things as to not get bored.
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