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numbnut
Dec 18, 2004, 2:45 AM
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What is the scariest fall you have taken? :?:
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climbhoser
Dec 18, 2004, 3:10 AM
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I've got two, but I'll try and keep it short.
When I was first learning to climb I was, of course, young and bold. A friend and I went to try a lead at Garden of the Gods. So, I was up first and headed up to the first bolt, which was probably 40 feet off the deck, but only 5-easy. Because I was short, I had to do 2 9ish moves to get the drilled angle, and then the climbing was serious. It was this odd dihedral without a crack. In the crack's stead was a shallow rain gully where water ran over the sandstone, and there were some features on the lip before it gave way to horribly slick sandstone. So, the next bolt is a good 15 feet or more, and I'm in deep on hard .10 terrain, way over my head. I'm pinching and hugging for dear life when I arrive at the second bolt. I'm not sure I can make the clip, so I raise my hand to see and the weight just levers me in such a way that the pinch I have pops right off the slick sandstone, sending me a whirlin'...Being at least fifty pounds heavier than my partner, I'd say the whip ended up being a solid 45-50 feet onto the slab below. Worst part: I put my hand out in front to stop my self from smacking the rock and it landed right where the rope was running up to the draw so I gave myself a really, really sick palm burn.
2nd story: About four months after the aforementioned story I got interested in aid climbing. I did some basic stuff with partners, tried my hand at crack jumaring (leapfrogging), and decided I wanted to try a solo at a local crag (the columns in Eugene, OR). I headed up and was about 25 feet off the deck at a good rest ledge when a friend arrived, soloed the crack next to me and found a good stance right by me. We chatted while I readjusted some things, and then I set off. I placed a Red Trango TCU in a good placement and stepped onto it. I then went to put my second aider above when my friend asked if I wanted a sip off of his nalgene. I said sure, to let me get my piece in first and he said if he had to wait he'd just climb. I wanted water, but was too impatient to downclimb, and made the hasty and horrible decision that the single TCU was enough. So, I let me second aider hang from the daisy and I reached for the nalgene. Mid reach the f0ker popped and I went sailing. Sure I was gonna die, only thing in my mind was "Shit that was stoopid," and I hit a ledge about three feet off the deck with my right foot ball of the toe region. This sent my knee into my chest, which changed my fall from straight down, feet first to back first. So, I landed with a whump on my back. Nothing broke but I tore every ligament in my ankle and spent five weeks on crutches....I still hate TCUs
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slavetogravity
Dec 18, 2004, 3:26 AM
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Way the fcuk off route on some wall in Red Rocks. Belayed my friend up and decided to bail after one pitch. Not wanting to bail on gear I tell my belayer to tie off to a bush 20 feet below me. The plan was that I’d tear down the anchor and down climb to him. I tear down the anchor, take one step right, and my foot hold blows out. I’m sailing through space with nothing between me and belayer. I’m going for a 40 foot bone breaking ledge decking ride, when at 20 feet I land on the bush. I’m hanging in space supported by the bushes branches, rope tangled all around. My belayer screams some expletives, grabs me by my ankle and pulls me back on to the wall. My coths are ripped up, and I had a few scratches but was otherwise ok.
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vegastradguy
Dec 18, 2004, 3:29 AM
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I took a near factor 2 fall off a roof as i was exiting belay once. It was only about a 15' fall onto the slab below, but after i hit the slab, i then found myself falling away from my belay (which was creepy) until the rope caught. This was about 800' up a 1000' climb or so. I'd been leading trad for about...4 months at the time. Walked away with a fairly nasty ankle sprain....
Another spooky 'fall' was more of a swing. I was cleaning the last pitch of Moonlight buttress at midnight sans headlamp. As I exited belay, i thought the rope was going straight up, but it wasnt. I weighted it and it felt fine, so i unclipped and i slid my jug up the line and stood up and *ping* i am suddenly coasting through space. spooky stuff.
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kman
Dec 18, 2004, 3:32 AM
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I was leading a route that I had led about 15 times already over the course of the year. It was on limestone. There was one hold that I had tested and used every single time. This time I was pretty complacent on it as I had led it so many times and had always used the same holds. This time...the one time I didn't test the hold...I grabbed it and pulled down on it and the hold ripped. It was about the size of a honey dew and I just managed to steer it away from my belayer as he jumped out the way. Even though it only resulted in a very small lead fall onto a bolt it sure got my adrenaline going.
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euroford
Dec 18, 2004, 4:12 AM
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a 30' footer on aid in the witchita mountains wildlife refuge. i had a couple of .75 camelots, black alien, and two hook moves below me and was just getting into my secopnd steps on a fixed knifeblade at the base of the next seam when she popped.
aid falls are always the worst, you have can no idea its coming, especially after you just bounce tested what you thought was an old, but solid pin.
i ripped the alien and the bomber cam cought me. it was a clean fall on 95ish degree terain so it wasn't that bad.
otherwise i've had some long, but clean and anticipated trad falls which wern't a big deal.
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tahoe_rock_master
Dec 18, 2004, 4:13 AM
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I have two:
(This wasn't a fall, but it was almost). My first time to Owen's River Gorge I was with the GF(she is a really new climber) so I had to do some easy routes. I went up to this sh*tty spot, I can't even remember what it was called) to do this mixed 5.7. I got up about 45 feet, with one piece of pro about 15 feet off the gound, not going to do me any good if I fall. Seeing a large, thick, pinnacle of rock(it was sitting on the ledge, but I thought it was attached), I grabbed it. when I put my weight on it the whole thing moved about 3 inches closer to the edge of the ledge. I let go and snagged the edge of a ledge about 8 inches below the movable piece. That definitely got my attention.
Later that same day i was leading an .11b, when I fell about 4 feet above the bolt. the climb had gone from verhang to slab to overhang to slab, I was on the upper slab. When i fell my belayer couldn't see me, and there was a lot of rope drag. So i fell, and got to about 6 feet below the bolt and figured I shoiuld stop, but I kept going. I hit the lower slab with may ass and tumbled backwordds off the edge. As I can into view of my belayer, he promptly stopped me. I looked up and saw i had falled and rolled about 35 feet. It turns out my belayer thoguht I was clipping. I wasn't too happy.
Matt
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cliffmonkey2003
Dec 18, 2004, 4:14 AM
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I've only taken one lead fall, so it was the scariest. It was pretty scary though, an 80 footer on slab for most of the way down.
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ctardi
Dec 21, 2004, 8:13 AM
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hmm let me see, i only gym climb, but have taken some huge falls...today, i climbed an easy 5.8 as a warmup. I could (and have) done this climb blindfolded. What i didn't know, is that my belayer decided to play a trick on me, he belayed the first few moves, just enough so if i fell, i wouldent deck. Then, he tied off tehh belay to his harness, and just pulled the rest of the rope through the anchors, so i get to the top, say take, he pulls hard on the rope, says got, and i let go....i fell about 25 feet down the 30 foot wall. I nearly pissed myself, and as soon as i got the knot undone, immediatly poured my waterbottle over my belayers head.
Also, what was embarising, is that the group of 22 kids i was going to belay showed up early and witnessed the whole thing. :oops:
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ell
Dec 21, 2004, 12:04 PM
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In reply to: hmm let me see, i only gym climb, but have taken some huge falls...today, i climbed an easy 5.8 as a warmup. I could (and have) done this climb blindfolded. What i didn't know, is that my belayer decided to play a trick on me, he belayed the first few moves, just enough so if i fell, i wouldent deck. Then, he tied off tehh belay to his harness, and just pulled the rest of the rope through the anchors, so i get to the top, say take, he pulls hard on the rope, says got, and i let go....i fell about 25 feet down the 30 foot wall. I nearly pissed myself, and as soon as i got the knot undone, immediatly poured my waterbottle over my belayers head.
I wouldn't climb with them again... ever.
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mcolombo
Dec 21, 2004, 12:59 PM
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Crack of Dust at Mission Gorge (Greasy 5.8) near the top I placed a cam it took a littel fiddeling to get it to sit right. went to clip. the rope was pinched unde my right foot, moved my foot a little went to clip and my right foot sliped out fo the slippery crack just as I was pulling slack. Left foot stayed in crack and as I fell I turned head first fell about 12-14 feet + strech ended up eye to eye with my Belayer. Good that she was well anchored. I weigh about 215#
Falling head first and seeing the ground coming is scary!
Lowered tried to stand up and realized that my left ankel was toast.
Marco
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tradman
Dec 21, 2004, 1:02 PM
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Any kind of fall on a slab is the worst. You slip, you start to go and you have to decide, should you:
1. Go head down on your ass? Could ruin your trousers and you'll hit the gear upside down.
2. Go face down on your chest? Could be safer when the harness catches you, put you'll shred your palms for sure.
3. Just generally tumble like a rag doll, flailing madly and shrieking like a pansy? Looks really silly but the screaming might make you feel better.
You've got a fifth of a second to decide, so think quick, say fond farewells to any exposed skin and the knees and seat of your pants, then stick your head between your legs and kiss your ass goodbye.
:wink:
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onsight_endorphines
Dec 21, 2004, 1:54 PM
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In reply to: ctardi wrote: hmm let me see, i only gym climb, but have taken some huge falls...today, i climbed an easy 5.8 as a warmup. I could (and have) done this climb blindfolded. What i didn't know, is that my belayer decided to play a trick on me, he belayed the first few moves, just enough so if i fell, i wouldent deck. Then, he tied off tehh belay to his harness, and just pulled the rest of the rope through the anchors, so i get to the top, say take, he pulls hard on the rope, says got, and i let go....i fell about 25 feet down the 30 foot wall. I nearly pissed myself, and as soon as i got the knot undone, immediatly poured my waterbottle over my belayers head.
In reply to: Ell wrote: I wouldn't climb with them again... ever.
I hope this was an incredibly safe fall (off an overhang or something)???
I'd nearly piss myself too, however, afterwords if it was proven safe I'd *probably* appreciate the experience, but it all depends on how you take that sort of thing.
Scariest fall I've taken is not much really, a 25' whipper after trying to make the last move of the route. It was a very dynamic move to a 2-finger pocket. Missed the pocket wwwaaaaaaahhhhh.......! was about 12' above the last clip, fun.
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thedesertnomad
Dec 21, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Just above a black alien (super small one) crucial hand broke off, fell caught on said alien, it popped - smacked me right between the eyes (drew lots of blood) unfortunately I was 20 feet above my next piece. sailed all the way down to that, caught, popped (bomber nut that blew the rock to pieces) bouced over a roof and a nice clean air fall for the last 20 feet... great hex caught beauty !!! Grand total of distance, approx 80 + stretch. banged an bruised... no real injuries. second lead fall ever. NO time to be scared til after it was all over.
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overzealous
Dec 21, 2004, 3:39 PM
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In reply to: hmm let me see, i only gym climb, but have taken some huge falls...today, i climbed an easy 5.8 as a warmup. I could (and have) done this climb blindfolded. What i didn't know, is that my belayer decided to play a trick on me, he belayed the first few moves, just enough so if i fell, i wouldent deck. Then, he tied off tehh belay to his harness, and just pulled the rest of the rope through the anchors, so i get to the top, say take, he pulls hard on the rope, says got, and i let go....i fell about 25 feet down the 30 foot wall. I nearly pissed myself, and as soon as i got the knot undone, immediatly poured my waterbottle over my belayers head. Also, what was embarising, is that the group of 22 kids i was going to belay showed up early and witnessed the whole thing. :oops:
Great thing for a bunch of kids to see. I'm not a total safety nazi but this is pretty messed up - glad you're alright though.
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wetyeti
Dec 21, 2004, 3:50 PM
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at the kanc in nh. placed two pieces in almost 20 feet between a ´solid´ flake. yarding up for a fist jam, creak, crumble, pop, pop, clunk. big ol´anthill sprouting from my noggin.
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skateman
Dec 21, 2004, 4:16 PM
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Actually.....
It was far scarier seeing my son take a 20' foot whipper than anything I've ever taken!
Seeing your little bundle of joy go ass over tea kettle and wondering if his last placement is going to hold...Yikes!
Besides, how do I explain to his mother the reason Doug is limping?
S-man
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ctardi
Dec 21, 2004, 5:29 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: ctardi wrote: hmm let me see, i only gym climb, but have taken some huge falls...today, i climbed an easy 5.8 as a warmup. I could (and have) done this climb blindfolded. What i didn't know, is that my belayer decided to play a trick on me, he belayed the first few moves, just enough so if i fell, i wouldent deck. Then, he tied off tehh belay to his harness, and just pulled the rest of the rope through the anchors, so i get to the top, say take, he pulls hard on the rope, says got, and i let go....i fell about 25 feet down the 30 foot wall. I nearly pissed myself, and as soon as i got the knot undone, immediatly poured my waterbottle over my belayers head. In reply to: Ell wrote: I wouldn't climb with them again... ever. I hope this was an incredibly safe fall (off an overhang or something)??? I'd nearly piss myself too, however, afterwords if it was proven safe I'd *probably* appreciate the experience, but it all depends on how you take that sort of thing. Scariest fall I've taken is not much really, a 25' whipper after trying to make the last move of the route. It was a very dynamic move to a 2-finger pocket. Missed the pocket wwwaaaaaaahhhhh.......! was about 12' above the last clip, fun.
Well, you see, the thing is, that belayer is my boss...hehe. IT was safe, on the 35 degree wall.
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climbingnurse
Dec 22, 2004, 4:17 PM
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30 feet in the dark was far and away my scariest lead fall. Falling in the dark is really spooky. It feels like you are truly weightless because you can't see that you are moving. You just have this odd sensation of weightlessness. And then all of this came to an end with a hard jerk on the rope and I smacked the back of my (helmeted) head on the rock. My first thought was something like "Woah... I'm still alive. Cool."
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ubiestmea
Dec 22, 2004, 4:30 PM
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Not really scary, there wasn't enough time. Sport lead just pulled a small roof and working right. Right foot blew propelling me left for 15 foot head first fall. The best part was while falling I was looking right into the eyes of my belayer as he simultaniously shat himself and tried to reel in slack with eyes the size of pancakes. :lol:
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peggy
Dec 22, 2004, 6:50 PM
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I'm not much of a story teller but I thought this one deserved to be told. All the beggining climbers..pay attention and learn from the several mistakes that were made.
I was at Taquitz seconding my first multi pitch climb. We were on Finger grip 5.7ish. There was another party climbing next to us on Fingertrip, also 5.7ish. My partner and I had started before the couple next to us and we were about a half pitch above them. I was taking on the rope (having trouble retrieving a piece of gear I think) and the leader of the other group caught up to me and wanted to pass me. I didn't know what to say, I had never had another party ask to pass me on a wall before, so I didn't say anything. I did notice that her last piece of gear was about 5 feet below me. As she continued to run out her route for another 20 feet I got a little nervous, she was only a few feet to the right of me. I asked if she thought she should place some gear and she agreed but couldn't find a placement. (I'm still taking on my rope) Then she did the unthinkable and crossed my rope 20 feet above me no gear! I'm really worried. She crosses back to her route, I breathe. She crosses my rope again! Still no gear! Then she says "Oh look a hangglider!" right as she falls taking at least a 45 footer head over heals down the low angled rock. She has fallen across me and now my arms are her best gear placement! The rope burned through my two layers of clothing and at least three layers of skin (I still have a scar)....I yelled to my belayer that he was holding up another person and he yelled to get her off our rope. I threw her rope over my head without even thinking if she was going to fall further. She must have been on ledge or something because I didn't feel much resistance when I lifted the rope over my head. I did a quick body assesment and decided I was okay. She was all "Oh my gawd are you okay?!" I just wanted to get as far away from her and her partner as I possibly could. While they were switching leaders below me I ran up the rest of the pitch we were on. Only when I got onto the belay ledge did I notice my rope had been burned halfway to the core and the belay loop on my harness was burned up too. SCARY!!
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crimpandgo
Dec 22, 2004, 7:00 PM
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In reply to: I'm not much of a story teller but I thought this one deserved to be told. All the beggining climbers..pay attention and learn from the several mistakes that were made. I was at Taquitz seconding my first multi pitch climb. We were on Finger grip 5.7ish. There was another party climbing next to us on Fingertrip, also 5.7ish. My partner and I had started before the couple next to us and we were about a half pitch above them. I was taking on the rope (having trouble retrieving a piece of gear I think) and the leader of the other group caught up to me and wanted to pass me. I didn't know what to say, I had never had another party ask to pass me on a wall before, so I didn't say anything. I did notice that her last piece of gear was about 5 feet below me. As she continued to run out her route for another 20 feet I got a little nervous, she was only a few feet to the right of me. I asked if she thought she should place some gear and she agreed but couldn't find a placement. (I'm still taking on my rope) Then she did the unthinkable and crossed my rope 20 feet above me no gear! I'm really worried. She crosses back to her route, I breathe. She crosses my rope again! Still no gear! Then she says "Oh look a hangglider!" right as she falls taking at least a 45 footer head over heals down the low angled rock. She has fallen across me and now my arms are her best gear placement! The rope burned through my two layers of clothing and at least three layers of skin (I still have a scar)....I yelled to my belayer that he was holding up another person and he yelled to get her off our rope. I threw her rope over my head without even thinking if she was going to fall further. She must have been on ledge or something because I didn't feel much resistance when I lifted the rope over my head. I did a quick body assesment and decided I was okay. She was all "Oh my gawd are you okay?!" I just wanted to get as far away from her and her partner as I possibly could. While they were switching leaders below me I ran up the rest of the pitch we were on. Only when I got onto the belay ledge did I notice my rope had been burned halfway to the core and the belay loop on my harness was burned up too. SCARY!!
This kind of reminds me of the opening scene of the moview Veritcal Limit...:)
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thewyseclimber
Dec 22, 2004, 8:37 PM
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In reply to: This kind of reminds me of the opening scene of the moview Veritcal Limit...:)
Hahaha...and we can all take many a good lesson from that movie...the cam dyno, etc.
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irockclimbtoo
Dec 22, 2004, 8:59 PM
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ab
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peggy
Dec 22, 2004, 9:15 PM
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Verticle Limit was a movie, made to entertain people, mostly non-climbers. My experience was real, frightening, and something I will never allow to happen again. I can still see the limp rope falling down around my arms. My palms still sweat when I talk about it and this happened almost two years ago.
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