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shear
Dec 20, 2004, 3:42 AM
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I find that I get really bored when inside bouldering. I usually go alone, and traversing the wall and working on boulder problems...I usually last around 2.5 hours. I really wanna break the plateau from V4 though...and just dont have the motivation when indoors.
so i guess what im asking is what can i do inside that will keep my interest, enthusiasm, and help me get stronger as well?
thanks...
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saskclimber
Dec 20, 2004, 3:46 AM
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In reply to: I usually go alone |
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cliffhanger9
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Dec 20, 2004, 3:59 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I usually go alone There's your problem right there...
exactly - be open to meeting people that are there - dont be intimidated if they are better then you - most climbers are really cool people and are usually pretty chill and you can learn alot from them
plus its more fun - sometiems we play games like add on, eliminates, or just endurance runs (one person starts an easy line, when they touch the finish hold, the next person starts, when they touch the finsh, next person etc. last person touches finsih hold original person starts new route and so on..)
as much as gyms suck, that is the one advantage - there is often a more social scene and you can play games in a controlled environment
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alderak
Dec 20, 2004, 3:59 AM
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No clue about how hard you train, or how often you go... but if you want to be a strong boulderer, maybe 2.5 hours is too long? Maybe you need to get on some harder stuff and work some power over a 1-1.5 hour workout?
and yeah, get some friends to go with... gym climbing is lame without people to talk to and keep you motivated.
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gamehendge
Dec 20, 2004, 4:08 AM
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Boulder naked and make friends real quick. :x
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josephgdawson
Dec 20, 2004, 6:17 AM
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I too boulder for about 2-3 hours when I go to the gym. I always warm up on some easy stuff until I break a good sweat and then I start hitting the routes that are going to challenge me. As my arm strength dimishes I start doing easier routes but doing a couple in a row without rest to build up endurance, but also work on technique. I figured that when my arms are wasted I will have to use technique.
When you see someone good send a problem you have been working on or send that V4 you want to do, ask them how they did that move that ejects you from the wall. I learned the other day that you can use your feet to pull your body and hips into the wall from this dude who did a route I cant finish. Apparently, this takes a lot of strain off your hands. This was a newsflash to me. Focussing on technique and fluid breathing keeps me amused when I am bouldering, rather than just throwing myself at the wall. I will also go do some situps and stuff to break up the time when I am bouldering to allow myself to rest.
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shear
Dec 20, 2004, 2:49 PM
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i usually go to the gym 2-3x a week...depending on what the weather is like. if its nice...im outside bouldering. but i really try and tax myself when i go. ill usually warm up pretty well with some easy problems, traversing on easy holds, and a lot of stretching. then ill start working on problems just below my limit. then afterwards i go to the problems i am actually "working" on...and after i decline in progress on those problems, ill start warming down and doing easier problems, and some endurance. i then stretch for about 10 minutes or so.
but yeah...i need to change it up...its getting really monotonous.
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jpearl
Dec 22, 2004, 3:41 AM
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Take a break from bouldering, slip on a harness, and climb the walls.
Sounds simple indeed, but believe me, this is a great way to break up gym monotony. There are evenings at my gym where I commit to only climbing certain types of routes, then other evenings when I leave the harness at home and become a boulderer. This adds variety to my indoor climbing program and keeps it lively. And besides, it's a good way to explore your arsenol of bouldering technique. Think flagging out while two-finger crimping on a traverse is something, try it while setting up to send an overhang after a sustained climb upwards.
Also, don't make every workout a V4 workout. Try some sessions where you work your endurance on lesser grades (this builds strength) and other evenings where you commit to much higher grades (this will begin to help you build advanced techniques, but mind those tendons!!!).
And of course, as a prior poster reccomended, naked bouldering will certainly add a new dimension to your otherwise mundane gym routine.
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adoubleyou
Jan 7, 2005, 5:50 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I usually go alone There's your problem right there...
I totally have to agree. When I practiced in our climbing shed alone, I hardly pushed myself to try new moves, work on the overhangs. Since November we are about 5 regular people, one of them is excellent, mind blowing. Now I do things I never dreamed of a few months ago. It's fun, it's inspiring, and between a bunch of people you can think of the craziest boulder problems. I don't wanna quit even after 3 hours of training, only my muscles tell me to stop. So we do, hang out and chat a bit 'till everybody is finally ready to leave. It made all the difference!!
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sierrabc
Feb 8, 2005, 11:57 PM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2005
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Try harder stuff, even the insane stuff. I have the same problem, after you climb the routes or problems in my gym, you get bored stiff.
Just mentally think about how fun the moment of climbing is and how you love the sport.
Play games like add-on, with climbers who excel you, they will push you. Eliminate holds, practice speed bouldering, dyno, do endurance, and whatever is fun.
Happy Sending!
Sierra 8^)
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