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skateman
Dec 20, 2004, 2:46 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
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Hi All,
Thinking of taking a trip to the valley next summer. One of my goals is the East Buttress of El Cap which I believe to to the easiest route up the big stone. I am a fairly strong 5.9 climber. I have done some 5.10's outdoors and I have led some .9 and .8's on trad. I will be taking a guide/friend who will be doing most if not all of the leading on E.B.
Here come the questions:
1. When would be a good time of year to climb E.B.? (I was thinking the route would be dry by 6/21 and the days would be long. Not to mention, the temps may be favorable)
2. How is the climbing on this route? I believe the route has one pitch/move of 5.10 and a few pitches of 5.9. Are these old school ratings?
3. How runout/protectable are the chimneys/ow's on this route?
4. Are the anchors solid?
5. Can a moderately paced party of three make it up E.B. in a day?
6. Lastly, I would appreciate comments from folks that have climbed E.B. that climb at a 5.9/5.10 level.
Thanks!
Dan
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karlbaba
Dec 20, 2004, 4:17 PM
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
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In reply to: Hi All, Thinking of taking a trip to the valley next summer. One of my goals is the East Buttress of El Cap which I believe to to the easiest route up the big stone. I am a fairly strong 5.9 climber. I have done some 5.10's outdoors and I have led some .9 and .8's on trad. I will be taking a guide/friend who will be doing most if not all of the leading on E.B. Here come the questions: 1. When would be a good time of year to climb E.B.? (I was thinking the route would be dry by 6/21 and the days would be long. Not to mention, the temps may be favorable) 2. How is the climbing on this route? I believe the route has one pitch/move of 5.10 and a few pitches of 5.9. Are these old school ratings? 3. How runout/protectable are the chimneys/ow's on this route? 4. Are the anchors solid? 5. Can a moderately paced party of three make it up E.B. in a day? 6. Lastly, I would appreciate comments from folks that have climbed E.B. that climb at a 5.9/5.10 level. Thanks! Dan
Hi Dan
1. East Butt will probably be fine by 6/21. There is no guarantee through if it is a wet spring. If Horsetail falls is going strong, East Butt is a no go. If it's going sporadically, the 5.9 sections in the middle get wet in the early afternoon and it would be a sketchy idea to try the route with a party of three unless you start in the dark.
2. There is plenty of fairly moderate face climbing on the route. (not bolted either, leadouts of 20 feet of 5.6 are found) The initial 5.9 Chimney/crack/stem is stiff for the grade and if you do that OK, you're fine for the route. The 5.10 move after that is bouldery, short and sandbagged. Many folks pull on gear through this section. The two 5.9s up higher are challenging. You want to do the face/thin crack variation and not the OW.
3. The chimney takes good pro. The OW up high would take big pro but looks horrifying.
4. There are very few bolted anchors. Some of the anchors that exist are sketchy and you back them up. The higher you get on the route. The bigger hassle it is to back off.
5. The term "moderately" paced is key. Getting three people up a dozen pitches in a day after an hour approach and facing a technical descent of 3 hours or so is not a slam dunk. It's possible but not easy. Bring headlamps and enough gear that you won't choke if you epic. I'd start the hike up in the dark if I were you.
The East Butt of El Cap is a step up from a grade 4 like the East Butt of Middle Cathedral, but easier than the North East Buttress of Higher Cathedral, and infinitely easier than Steck Salathe. If you look at the topos, it's not evident that there is any difference between the routes.
Peace
Karl
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skateman
Dec 20, 2004, 4:32 PM
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Thanks Karl!
That was exactly what I was looking for! It sounds like the first 5.9 chimney, which I believe is the 1st pitch, is the litmus test for the route. Looks like I'll be getting up early and climbing in a party of two to avoid an epic!
S-man
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climboard
Dec 20, 2004, 4:39 PM
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It's been a few years since I did it but I'll see what I can remember.
1. When would be a good time of year to climb E.B.? (I was thinking the route would be dry by 6/21 and the days would be long. Not to mention, the temps may be favorable)
It should be. I climbed it in late June and it was dry.
2. How is the climbing on this route? I believe the route has one pitch/move of 5.10 and a few pitches of 5.9. Are these old school ratings?
There is one 10b move right off the first belay. It is protected by a small nut and could easily be skipped with a point of aid. There is another pitch of 5.9 offwidth that I remember being tricky. The rating seemed comparable to other Yosemite routes. I'd get on a few shorter routes to get used to the rock and grade if you haven't been to Yosemite before.
3. How runout/protectable are the chimneys/ow's on this route?
I don't recall any long runouts. Bring a #4 Camalot.
4. Are the anchors solid?
It depends- how solid are you at building anchors?
5. Can a moderately paced party of three make it up E.B. in a day?
I suppose but it depends on your definition of moderately paced. We made it fairly easily as a party of two. Have you climbed grade IV routes with a party of 3?
6. Lastly, I would appreciate comments from folks that have climbed E.B. that climb at a 5.9/5.10 level.
It's a great route! Make sure you keep an eye out for thunderstorms as this route will turn into a river.
color=red]
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crankingclimber
Dec 20, 2004, 5:16 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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It's been a while, and I don't have the topo but...
We linked many pitches. To do this 200ft ropes are a must. Good beta, especially if you've got endurance, is to scramble the initial 4th class to the 5.9 offwidths, then lead the offwidths, and the 5.10 pitch in one. It's long BUT it's quicker, and more importantly, it avoids a factor 2 if you fall during the 5.10 section. The 5.10 section is right off the belay, and the belay is made of a couple of not great pitons - can't remember how it is to back up, so it's nice to not be factor 2ing onto it. Plus the belay is at a ledge good enough for a no hands rest - lead the 5.9 pitch, rest as long as you want, and then fire through the 5.10.
Have all members of the party carrying a topo - the line's not hidden, but not obvious. Up top especially it gets somewhat ambiguous.
Climb on some shorter valley stuff to get a feel for what it will be like - if you're a solid 5.9 leader and occaisional 5.10 leader, as long as you're ok with the valley style climbing (ie, do OK on the lower pitches, making good time) and gettting a few feet above you're gear, you'll be fine. I wasn't much stronger than that when I climbed it, and my partner was far weaker - I led every hard pitch on it and we did fine.
Have fun and keep moving, it's an awesome line!
Will
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hasbeen
Dec 20, 2004, 5:35 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2003
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This is pretty good beta and covers most of the issues you'll encounter. Here are a couple of tips to keep your from getting lost as the route does wander.
1st section is easy as it's a chimney (the crux is stemming out of the chimney). At the top of 2 you head left (POV looking up, or towards El Cap), downclimb a bit, and climb up that nice face/arete you've seen in all the pics.
Above this you move left further on 3rd class to a nice crack that leads up to an obvious roof. On top of this you're on the "nose" that can be seen from the ground.
Obvious from here, you head up a left leaning crack to a terrible wide belay or link them (yes). Remember to head out of the wide crack to the left when you can. There's a bolt out on the face and you climb some easy 5.9 (thin gear) rather than an awful off-width.
Above this section, from a nice belay, you move left and then back right on easy climbing. Above there are these two little towers you traverse over, moving right and around the main arete on the edge of El Cap. Above is a nice bit of face on knobs that's a the coolest pitch of the route.
At the top of this section things get a little nebulous but you continue over some easy roofs and slabs to trend slightly right unit a huge detached-looking right facing dihedral can be seen above. Head towards this in the easiest path and climb the face right under it. Above, traverse back left above this feature and you're done.
I don't think this route is that great (EBMC is far better) but it's cerainly the easiest way to get up El Cap.
You can rap the middle variation of the East Ledges with one 60m, so don't lug 2 ropes around.
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skateman
Dec 20, 2004, 5:35 PM
Post #7 of 13
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
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You guys are awesome!
Will's confidence building along with climb's thunderstorm beta! I'll definitely have to do this route!
I haven't done anything more than six pitches up to this point. Hoping to do Cannon Mtn early next season. (Can be up to 10 pitches depending on the route)
I should have been more specific about anchors. I'm fine with gear anchors (as is my guide/friend of course). I meant to ask if the rock that you build the anchor in is stable and not a pile of choss!
It's going to be a long winter here in the East. I'm Jonesing to get out to Valley!!!!! I'll have to distract myself with some ice climbing!
Keep the Beta coming. Today E.B. ! Can the the DNB be far behind? ......not a chance!
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vegastradguy
Dec 20, 2004, 5:45 PM
Post #8 of 13
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Eb's a good route. My partner and I did it last summer and had a great time. The first chimney is definitely the litmus test as Karl said.
keep a #1 camalot and a few small wires to back up the first belay. My parnter fell on the move, ripped his gear and landed on belay, then on the second go, pulled through it.
The route is good and has alot of easy climbing, but no pitch is a 'gimme' they tend to be either easy and run out or sustained and well protected. Either way, you have to be on it all day.
Good luck and have fun. Get an early start, the route is popular in june (i think we did it on 6/15 and we were one of 4 parties on route.)
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russwalling
Dec 27, 2004, 11:16 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Registered: Jun 12, 2002
Posts: 239
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try this..... worked for me:
http://www.fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/eastbutt.html
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russwalling
Dec 27, 2004, 11:18 PM
Post #10 of 13
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Registered: Jun 12, 2002
Posts: 239
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try this..... worked for me:
http://www.fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/eastbutt.html
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jonnyb
Dec 27, 2004, 11:28 PM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 51
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Yea, The Fish Topo was really helpful for me too. 8 pitches is much faster than 13 or whatever the other guides say. Bring a 60m rope.
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dynosontrad
Dec 29, 2004, 11:54 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 11
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hey man....have you climbed in Yose before? i lead 11c routes down here in so cal that where easier than some 5.9 yose... i would recommend climbing something alittle smaller and less commiting if its your first yosemite climb...it takes some getting use too...you should be safe 6/21...but watch the weather...storms come in quick and on the east buttress youll be climbin through some rapids if the rain falls... leave early for this climb and be ready to set alotta trad anchors and back up some shitty ones... go climb the nutcracker... its a good first Yosemite climb if youve never been... invest in the Yosemite Free Climbs Super Topo...i think its the best book out for Yose... be safe dude....Yosemite is amazing... (yosemite tip) make friends with the people at the village or curry store...you can go in and buy a 6 pack and theyll only charge you for one beer...once i even got a free pack of cigs... when you get to the park tell them your visiting an employee... (use the name Russel Marsh) hes my hommie)... have fun man....the Valley is amazing!!!!! (oh and whatever you do ...dont speed...the park service is usually pretty lame and have nothing to do, wear shoes on the slackline at camp four for you might get some funky foot fungis... you can get away with not paying at camp four if your poor... wow...this is long....holla if you got any?s about anything....
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scallywag
Jan 3, 2005, 1:16 AM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Apr 13, 2003
Posts: 324
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I did the EB in mid may 04 and it was totally dry.
If you've got some aliens they are good to back up the belay after the first pitch (the green and yellow from memory).
The chimney is far from the "litmus test" its a chimney. the move off the belay on the second pitch is by far the hardest part of the whole climb - but know this - that hold just outta reach up and right - its a good un!
Definitely go the face not the off width - and feel pity for the person wearing the pack on the second pitch and the offwidth/face pitch!
The descent is somewhat confusing with so many options, but they all reach the same place so chill out.
Go do Snake Dike before the EB - if you can do this in a party of three then you have a good chance. its 5.7 so the climbing is not the test - but there are long runouts and a long approach. A fantastic climb well worth the climb tho. I had more fun onthis than EB.
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