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feelio
Jun 10, 2002, 8:12 PM
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Ok, so I searched and searched the site. Found nothing on this topic. YO DOC! I am ready to understand "the better way" to Aid solo. Hit me bruthu, i just made room in thr brain for some new info. I have experience soloing with Cloves and an SP....so full on details need not be disclosed, JUST THE MEAT!!!!!!
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2002, 11:23 PM
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I haven't done much of it at all. But I know a little about it. The greatest thing about it is the amount of weight you save your sorry butt from having to carry up those body weight placement pitches. Another thing is that learn how to do it on easier stuff first. If you don't figure it out it could cause an epic clusterf**k.
Here is some stuff Pete has written on it along with some pictures. Here is a pic of the solo tag rack. Here is a pic of thesolo tag system. Hope this helps you out. You also need to solo with the gri gri. If you aren't doing that already you are making alot more work for yourself. Clove hitches are a real pain in the butt. With the gri gri you can just relaxe on harder climbs and think about the wall in front of you instead of feeding the rope out. I reccomend taping the handle down. The gri gri is great for soloing pitches with pendelums as you just lower your self and start swinging. With the clove hitch it is a true pain in the butt. But the gri gri will make your life simple. And add the solo tag to the gri gri and soloing will be so nice.
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passthepitonspete
Jun 11, 2002, 3:07 AM
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ARRGH.
ANOTHER post I haven't yet answered.
Sorry.
I've got a pretty good sketch at home I can post after I get back in a couple weeks.
As a matter of a fact, I soloed the second pitch of Shortest Straw today using this system - pretty good value A3 - and everything went perfectly. I always love it when the tag rack comes up with buggering up!
Keep hunting around. There are some places where I've talked about using a Grigri for soloing, and using prusik (actually Klemheist) knots every twenty or thirty feet or so to hold up the weight of the rope so it doesn't slide thru the Grigri, and also to rebelay the rope to eliminate all rope rubbing in the system.
Do it right, and you can solo a wall and have NO rope abrasion on your lead rope at all.
Cheers,
Pete
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beyond_gravity
Jun 11, 2002, 3:19 AM
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rebelay is a word i've heard many times...I couldnt find it in the "climbing terms" d-base...could someone tell me what this is?
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bigwalling
Jun 11, 2002, 4:08 AM
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BG think about your question. It is kinda common sense.
P.S. spending more times in the climbing forum might help you understand some climbing terms.
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apollodorus
Jun 11, 2002, 5:27 AM
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REBELAY: when the Good Doc solos up using the GriGri, he has to occasionally clove hitch the rope to a bomber piece. Otherwise, the weight of the rope will pull it back through the GriGri, creating tons of slack below. A sling with a klemheist knot will also work. Basically, you tie the rope off to a bomber piece midway up the pitch. For solo climbing, you belay the rope to the usual belay anchors with a knot, and then rebelay along the pitch using more knots.
I learned to solo on a Gri-Gri on the 24th-25th linkup of the Excalibur, with instruction from Dr. Piton on the fly. It worked great. My only mistake was NOT rebelaying the rope, so it kept getting pulled back through the GriGri. By the time I was concerned about all that slack, though, I was almost up. And besides: I didn't want to leave any gear on the 25th traverse pitch, so it would be easier to follow.
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krustyklimber
Jun 11, 2002, 5:47 AM
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If you guys don't get this sorted out by the time I get back from the E-room I'll give it a try tomorrow. I have all the related pages printed and they are in my haulbag. But I can't get to them and I have to go.
Suffice it to say that the C.L.S.T.M. is the woo! I have been using it for the past few months, and it works so good I have even been using it to drag my chainsaw and tools up for solo tree work (no ground man means more money for me!).
Go easy Jake, Rebelay could and does mean many different things, in many different applications. And good job on the links and your preliminary answer.
Jeff
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justsendingits
Jun 11, 2002, 9:57 AM
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What about the silent partner?I am going to be in the valley the whole month of july,and I plan on soloing the whole time.I have not done a lot of solo aid,but I have done at least 50 or 60 pitches of soloing trad and sport.Started out on clove hitch,now I use the s.p. and I love it,is it ok for solo aid? Also,I bought a 65 meter PMI rope,I asked for static but they gave me a static/dynamic mixed rope,20% dynamic,10.5 mil.--is it ok to use this to haul and jug,or should i buy a new 11 mill. 100% static. RICHARD
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krustyklimber
Jun 12, 2002, 8:29 AM
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Richard,
Yes the Silent Partner will do the job nicely! But we here in our little corner of the world don't like to spend money when we don't have to. And have adopted the Continiuous Loop Solo Tagging Method, as taught to us by the Illuustious Pass the Pitons Pete! But I would use the gear you have already spent your money on. Pete may disagree on the rope though, but he's not as cheap, or as poor as I am!
Whereas you already need to own a Gri-Gri for climbing anyway, we don't buy another device to do a job the Gri-Gri can (maybe even better).
Here we go:
I think these threads should get you all going, and since I don't know where else to start I'll start at the beginning.
The first thing you'll need is: Please read STUFF YOU NEED AND HOW TO RIG IT.
Once you've got that Then I would read "how to rack your rack" and it's related stuff http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=8715&forum=19&11
Then "How to move up on aid without blowing it" http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=4212&forum=19
this will also be helpful: http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=3424
The body hoist I couldn't find. Work through this and if anyone has any questions I'll try to finish with them tomorrow. Pete's skills, not only as a climber but as a writer, far exceed mine. It's a good thing he knows how to do all that linking stuff, so does Jake, as you see above.
As for the rebelay as it pertains(sic?) to soloing, Pete says to use 5mm cord runners to hold the weight of the rope to keep it from running through the Gri-Gri. They must be set on good pieces, and be long enough to never interfere with the stretch of the rope (thus losing dynamic properties in a fall) as the rope doesn't move during soloing the same way it does when climbing with a partner. This is one of the most critical elements of the soloing method, as doing it wrong could be catastrophic. The biggest benefit of doing this is that it can save wear and (hopefully not) tear on your rope while you are jugging the pitch to clean it, and provide you with a much less bouncy jug back up. That saves wear and tear on little ol' me and I like that a lot!
I hope this covers some of you guys, I'm no Dr. Piton, but I did what I could.
Jeff
*edit* Crud, some of my links didn't work, but Pete should have me covered already. Heck you could link around in circles for days in his posts. I found all this stuff before, well enough to be using the system, you guys can too!
[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-06-12 01:33 ]
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justsendingits
Jun 12, 2002, 10:09 AM
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Wow,a lot of onfo there!!!Thanx krusty for the beta,and links.I need to get in the back yard and try this solo tag stuf before I come to the valley(3 weeks and counting)--I bought the S.P. for SOLO FREE CLIMBING,and I love it.It pays out slack much better than a grigri!!!--I can climb a full grade harder with the sp.And safer,don't have to pay out slack before the crux,but that is free climbing,this is an aid thread.Thanx for the help!!!!--RICHARD
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