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bandycoot
Dec 23, 2004, 2:47 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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I found a website that advertises 4 sizes:
black/blue
blue/green
green/yellow
yellow/red
I remember buying my first rack. Someone told me that I should buy all 10 metolius hexes (which I did) so now I learned my lesson. (This is not a bash on hexes, I just don't find the smaller ones more useful than nuts.) I don't want to buy something that won't be useful.
I've done RNWFHD and WFLT but WFLT was the only one where offset aliens helped marginally so my experience with their use is somewhat limited. My longterm goal is to get into around A3/C3 bigwalling in the valley. Are they all equally useful or are some more essential than others. What are recommendations for a first purchase? I was planning on getting one of each, but thought I would get recommendations first.
Thanks!
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ncclimber
Dec 23, 2004, 2:52 AM
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Registered: May 5, 2003
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If your going to aid climb the more the better. But good luck finding them. I'd buy another full set if I could get my hands on them.
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vegastradguy
Dec 23, 2004, 3:06 AM
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for aid, i can imagine that any hybrids you can get your paws on should be bought (which is what i did)
for trad, i rarely use the smallest, but i use the red/yellow and yellow/green all the time.
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mistertyler
Dec 23, 2004, 3:40 AM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2003
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Well, I don't have any experience on big walls (although I'd sure love to get on one), but I do have a double set of hybrid Aliens (except for one bl/gr).
I've placed each of the 4 different sizes and love them all, although I've come to a somewhat inarticulable conclusion that I like the smaller sizes best. For me, it comes down to the fact that, with small Aliens (black, blue, and the green to some extent), there is physically less "tolerence" for variation in crack-width than with the larger Aliens; a black or blue Alien that's "just a little off" is, as I understand it, a crap placement.
I've never found it to be a challenge to find places to put the larger hybrids; I just think the difficulty of finding a crack that will fit a regular black or blue (and sometimes green) Alien perfectly just makes them more important than the larger hybrids.
I'd love to hear other climbers' thoughts on the hybrids.
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holdplease2
Dec 23, 2004, 4:24 AM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
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If you can find them and you plan to climb where there are PIN SCARS get them all. Pin scars come in all varieties of sizes, no one is more common than the others in my (limited) experience. If you don't climb where there are pin scars, they are useful but rarely absolutely necessary.
Plus, I bet you can almost always sell them for what you paid, tax included, if you decide you don't want a given size. This is because they are so rare.
-Kate.
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epic_ed
Dec 23, 2004, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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Dude -- if you can find 'em in any size -- BUY THEM! Buy multiples in the same size if you can, 'cause I guarantee you'll want at least doubles of each size if you're going to be doing any aid climbing.
Ed
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bringmedeath
Dec 23, 2004, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2004
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Ya buy a bunch if you can find them. But if you can't you can make your own. I've heard you can't make the green/yellow though.
Here what I have and think about sizes:
3 black/blue: This is very useful on some routes. I've had pitches that suck these down and it's way faster than nuts.
3 blue/green: Probably the most useful size, this seems to be a common pin scar size.
2 green/yellow: This is another really good size, I'd like to own one more of them.
1 yellow/red: I've gotton by with only one so far... but I've never left it as pro. Lots of times you can get by with other stuff in a scar this size. Wish I had 2 though!
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iamthewallress
Dec 24, 2004, 8:52 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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The best size is usually the size that I need but have already placed.
Seriously though, if you want to know whether or not you'd appreciate a set enough spring for all 4, get about 15 or 20 feet off the deck and climb onto a bomber green alien with all 4 cam lobes touching the rock. Now pull it half way out of the crack so that only 2 cam heads engage. If you get a bang out of the two head placement and wouldn't mind seeing quite a few of those, sometimes in dubious situations, then save your money. If given the choice, you'd usually pick the 4 heads touching over 2, good luck finding a set in stock somewhere.
Climbing with someone who has the gear that you covet is always a good way to try before you buy. However, Alien Offsets could almost certainly be unloaded for your cost slightly used, because they are so hard to find that you can't really loose if you get them and don't like them.
I have one set. I don't do hard aid, but I've enjoyed them on what aid I've done. I've probably borrowed extras, but I don't remember.
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areyoumydude
Dec 24, 2004, 7:12 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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In reply to: The best size is usually the size that I need but have already placed.
Damn, that's what I was going to say. :)
Good luck in finding them. Those guys are more into bong rips that making cams.
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mingleefu
Dec 24, 2004, 7:24 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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In reply to: I found a website that advertises 4 sizes: black/blue blue/green green/yellow yellow/red
Be wary ordering from them. From what I've heard, companies have been known to accept money and then place it on back order. The hybrids aren't in stock anywhere, due to their popularity, so be careful sending money to people who aren't sending gear back right away. Call them and find out what you're really in for.
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brutusofwyde
Dec 25, 2004, 12:35 AM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: The best size is usually the size that I need but have already placed. Damn, that's what I was going to say. :) Good luck in finding them. Those guys are more into bong rips that making cams.
To which I will add: the survey is missing the obvious and correct answer, which is several of each size.
Brutus, triples and counting.
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