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maximclimber
Dec 28, 2004, 4:39 AM
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I have started to venture out into the real rock world... i got enough rope webbing locking carabiner but... the question is i have 12 quick draws is this good for MOST all sport climbs? And what else is good to have in a rack besides locking carabiner, harness, rope, water, radios, webbing?
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melodicllama
Dec 28, 2004, 4:44 AM
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12 seems a decent number for most climbs(not that i would know...im no expert)
and yeah try not to forget your harness at home its pretty important :P
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n00b
Dec 28, 2004, 4:45 AM
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cordallette
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asandh
Dec 28, 2004, 5:02 AM
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:idea:
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maximclimber
Dec 28, 2004, 5:09 AM
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trad is drawing my attention, but i am just trying to get my rack up to speed with being able to do just about anything i want to do... trad is the next rout i take... but with my 2 climbing partners that doesnt fly with them so, i will soon find someone in tempe AZ to teach me the trad stuff.
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tanner
Dec 28, 2004, 5:16 AM
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Head lamp...
Having one saved our asses in skaha several years back when a friend of mine blew a clip and smashed both legs wide open on a ledge just before dark.
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irockclimbtoo
Dec 28, 2004, 5:20 AM
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ab
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8flood8
Dec 28, 2004, 6:17 AM
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sometimes you can't hear your belayer, or see and it can be important to communicate. such as half way on the rope.
i can remember climbing in potrero on easter. there were so many mexicans on the canyon floor blasting music out of their cars and trucks.
i couldnt hear my belayer because of the wind and the echoing music.
that was an extreme case, i agree but true nonetheless. i would say no rack without a knife is complete. and i always keep my cell phone in my camelback, or my backpack
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gunkiemike
Dec 28, 2004, 1:54 PM
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Maybe a helmet... (personal choice of course)
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climbersoze
Dec 29, 2004, 3:05 AM
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everything you plan on carrying is good to go. 12 draws is going to be good for most any single pitch, beginner sport climb. At least it works for any I have encountered.
Take what you "Think" you need and then some. And then after a while, you can trim down what you carry to what you "know" you need. Don't let someone tell you you don't need it. If it makes you more comfortable, then take it for starters.
As far as what you say you have, I would suggest some sewn slings (single and double length) unless you have them already tied out of your webbing.
Cordalette is a good idea too. So is helmet, since this is appears to be your first real foray into the outside world.
Make sure you have enough lockers for rigging anchore, adn for clipping in for belays. Also, you didn't say you had an ATC. Get one and learn to use it effectively. And on top of lockers, it wouldn't hurt to have a few (half dozen) spare biners that are not committed to draws.
Also - sport climbing is still climbing. Even though I prefer trad, sport does have it's merits. I believe trad is a pure approach to climbing where sport is more of an athletic approach to climbing. Even recently, I have warmed up to the notion of bouldering... just not so much to boulderers :twisted:
Be safe, man. Check your anchors, check your belay, and party on.
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kevanrobitaille
Dec 29, 2004, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: maximclimber wrote: In reply to: I have started to venture out into the real rock world I hope this doesn't crush your desire to venture outside because I applaud your determination to advance. however Sport climbing is NOT the "real rock world". It is basically a climbing gym without a roof. It can be fun, though, and it is one step closer to the real thing. :wink: p.s. The most important tool for sport climbers is a clip stick that can reach the top bolt of the climb. :D
Agreed, but the thing is you cant Trad everything, so atleast sport opens a lot more doors of the "real climbing world".
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veritasmmv
Dec 29, 2004, 3:50 AM
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I'm relatively new to climbing in general, and after reading this I need some clarification... Sport climbing is walls with permanently screwed anchors and trad is seting your own anchors with nuts, cams, etc? Correct me if I'm wrong
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corankinrok
Dec 29, 2004, 4:40 AM
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Go to the Gear Heads forum and read the " I got the $$$" postings. This should help answer your question.
Rok on :lol:
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maximclimber
Dec 29, 2004, 4:58 AM
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I should have posted this in the first thread but hesitation got the best of me... its the how much money is in your rack...
I wont post the amount due to thoughts of "bragging" but this is what I have...
1 Kelty back pack
1 camelback (for pack)
1 shoes (pair)
2 walkie talkies
1 60m maxim rope
1 50' bright yellow webbing
1 50 bluewater webbing
1 10' bluewater webbing
1 10 bright red webbing
1 rope bag
2 BlueWater Ropes Climb-Spec Runners 48
1 BlueWater Ropes Climb-Spec Runners 36
1 BlueWater Ropes Climb-Spec Runners 24
1 harness
1 ATC
1 Chalk bag
1 re-fill up of chalk
12 quick draws
7 locking carabiners (mostly screw gate but few auto lockers)
2 locking steel D carabiners (screw gate)
3 non locking carabiners
3 super 8's
1 REI gear sling
1 Petzl Elios Helmet
1 first aid kit
1 petzl headlamp gift
1 4D cell Mag Lite
1 5 mega pixle digi cam
1 32 oz Nalgene bottle
I think i'm set for the outdoors... I have slowly built this pack from scratch in the past 7 months. If there is anything that you have found useful to your "a bag of tricks" that you may have, please share.
or jsut e-mail me at philipjreynolds@gmail.com
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cjstudent
Dec 29, 2004, 5:19 AM
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There's lots of other threads on this you might want to try for more info.
Its all going to be based on what you feel you need.
I feel that on any given trip i need:
- Water (2 nalgenes usually)
- Food
- Other 10 essentials (way to start fire...)
- Trashbag (cuz i don't want your trash on the ground)
- headlamp
- first aid kit (and knowledge to use it)
- sufficient clothes for the season
If I'm at a sport crag, which is rare, my gear is:
- 10ish sport draws (enough for my area)
- 2-3 24" slings (or trad draws)
- 3 locking biners
- harness
- helmet (always)
- shoes
- 2 48" slings
- Cordalette
- rope
- atc and big locker
- prussik & knife
- bail links just in case
- small assortment of trad gear (usually thin gear just in case...but NC isn't known lots of bolts)
- 3-6 extra non-locking biners
- guidebook
- and a trusting partner!
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reno
Dec 29, 2004, 5:48 AM
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In reply to: And what else is good to have in a rack besides locking carabiner, harness, rope, water, radios, webbing?
A helmet.
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phatcat
Dec 29, 2004, 6:04 AM
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In reply to: 1 REI gear sling
i don't want to sound like a jerk, but you really use a gear sling for 12 draws? :roll:
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 29, 2004, 7:23 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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If you like to Toprope, get a set of nuts. You can find them for about $40 on northernmountain.com, for sizes 4-13. With webbing to sling and a set of nuts you can toprope most anything.
12 draws are more than enough, any more than 12 bolts on a climb 100ft or under (most that I climb are about 6 for 50 feet) is overkill.
Unless sport is your thing. Than you are groovy. Get some tossable biners in case you ever have to bail on a route.
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mingleefu
Dec 29, 2004, 8:12 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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In reply to: 1 Kelty back pack 1 camelback (for pack) 2 walkie talkies 1 50' bright yellow webbing 1 50 bluewater webbing 1 10' bluewater webbing 1 10 bright red webbing 2 BlueWater Ropes Climb-Spec Runners 48 1 BlueWater Ropes Climb-Spec Runners 36 1 re-fill up of chalk 7 locking carabiners (mostly screw gate but few auto lockers) 2 locking steel D carabiners (screw gate) 3 non locking carabiners 3 super 8's 1 REI gear sling 1 4D cell Mag Lite 1 32 oz Nalgene bottle
The above stuff is All overkill. I left the stuff you don't need to bring so that you can simply see how much extra stuff you're bringing. Since you're talking about sport cragging, you're not likely to be too remote to be needing alot of this stuff.
I deleted the stuff you should bring: Harness, shoes, chalk, ATC, Belay Biner, 12 draws (since that's how many you have), rope, 2 slings (24"), 2 locking biners, water. This stuff is all you need to bring for a day of sport cragging. I tend to drink more than 32oz of water in a day, so I left that nalgene in the list for you to reconsider quantity- 32oz may not be enough. I'll allow you the camera too, because that's always nice.
You don't need two packs for sport cragging. Bring one, I'd say the smaller one. You just need to fit some food, water, and maybe an extra layer of clothing in there. the gear can be carried in the open or rolled in the rope bag, although many people do like to put it all in a single pack.
Be certain to leave the mag lite home. Also leave home:
-Steel carabiners: super heavy
-the miles of webbing: sport routes have anchors usually requiring just two draws to build toprope anchor
-refill of chalk: fill your chalkbag at home. You shouldn't be using that much of it anyway. Chalk is not confidence, so keep your hands out of the bag inless your perspiring profusely.
-Radios: Not very necessary for sport days. Even trad climbing doesn't call for them unless you're in a multi-pitch scenario (multipitch routes tend to have longer pitches than an average sport crag).
-bring two locking biners, not 7. You never really need more than two. You can Toprope safely off two non-lockers with gates opposite and opposed. Use those two lockers and two 24" slings to make cowtails to help you clean sport anchors.
-Super long runners: those 36" and 48" runners are not necessary for sport routes. just use a single draw per bolt. You have plenty of draws for most any route, you don't need those slings.
-Gear sling: your harness should have loops on it. Use those. I personally despise gear slings, and only use them on multipitch routes (gear slings help speed up the changeover when swinging leads) for cragging, trad included, I use the gear loops on my harness.
Notice that I took the First Aid kit off the list of excess. It would be a good habit to start bringing that thing now. I had to make a conscious effort to start remembering to bring one since I didn't at first.
Realize that the outdoors are not all that scary. It's different, and most feel that it is better, but an average sport destination does not present you with a total wilderness adventure. You shouldn't be finding yourself desperate for anything that isn't within 20 minutes walk to the car anyway.
I hope that was thorough enough for your liking. This is just what I would suggest, and others may have alternate recommendations, but it's a thorough review of your gear. When you come back from your first time out, look through your gear-- see how much of it you used, and how much you didn't, and how much you wish you had brought. Make adjustments each time you go out, and each time will become more and more hassle free.
Above and beyond all, Climb safe and check everything twice.
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andrewscott
Jan 3, 2005, 7:52 AM
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I'd say that its all realitive. If you don't have a long aprotch and the parking lot is right there you might as well bring the kitchen sink. It sounds like you are just about set. I would secure some cordelett, helmet, and a knife. Gear aside, however, the most valuable thing you have out there is your knowledge. Don't let any one tell you that sport is just like being in a gym, or that gym climbing is totaly safe. Things like rock fall, lightning, extreem weather, and operator error happen to serious alpinists and weekend sport climbers. Read up, be safe, and have fun!
-Cheers
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