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climbchickky
Jun 12, 2002, 1:43 AM
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is it safe to bail off a single carabiner if you cant finish a sport route? if not, what do most people use to lower off if they can not finish the climb?
[ This Message was edited by: climbchickky on 2002-06-11 19:56 ]
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hangdoggypound
Jun 12, 2002, 1:59 AM
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I've done once and it gave me the hee-bee-gee-bees. I don't know if it is "not safe." Taking a 15 foot whipper on a bolt is not entirely safe either (smashing ankles, rope wrapped arond the leg, sheared bolt, etc.), but we do it anyway. Bolts are kinda freaky anyway (to me) because you don't know it's history, or how long it is, or if it is over torqued to the point of being almost stripped.
As another climber told me the other weekend when I told him my fingers hurt: "Welcome to the game."
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traide
Jun 12, 2002, 1:59 AM
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Relatively. I keep my eyes open for cheap biners, even just for this if nothing else. it's not a good idea to use bent gate biners, or and d-ring biner at all for that matter. ovals work pretty well, lockers are best.
when you place the biner, make sure it is in a spot where it is not very suceptible (i already know i can't spell, why try?) to having the gate directly against the rock in any way, you don't want any chance at all of it opening up on you.
also, when you rap down, be ABSOLUTELY SURE you don't twist up the rope at all, as this could force the biner gate open and you to fall to an untimely injury. if you use a non-locking biner like that, don't climb back up on the rope that is anchored at the biner you are leaving. (it makes rope twisting much more likely. if you want to go back up, you will have to lead it all over again.
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jt512
Jun 12, 2002, 2:01 AM
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Whoa! That's a loaded question!
You are relying on a single piece to save your life. You'd better be damn sure that that bolt is good. No one in their right mind would tell you that this practice is "safe." If you have any doubts whatsoever, don't bail off a single piece. Leave a biner on the next bolt down, as a backup.
-Jay
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traide
Jun 12, 2002, 2:08 AM
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yeah, putting another biner on the next bolt down is a good idea, too. you never can be too sure about how secure some of those bolts are.
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tigerseye
Jun 14, 2002, 3:50 AM
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Whats Wrong With D's ???
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crackwhore
Jun 14, 2002, 4:20 AM
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some people carry spin shuts around to bail with. these eliminate the possibility of a gate opening. i can think of at least 3 safer ways to bail (off a sport route). 1: down lead and take all your draws home.2: learn to use a stick clip and employ this ingenious device to gain the anchors (a much safer place to bail from) 3: employ the services of a local "Ropegun". these are typically climbers who are better than you; eliminating the need to "tuck tail and bail".
most "Ropeguns" only require meager rations for thier services and appreciate having thier egos stroked by "lesser" climbers.
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duskerhu
Jun 14, 2002, 5:24 AM
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First of all, get the guts and finish the route... and if you can't, maybe you shouldn't be on it...
Second, I again agree with JT; you shouldn't rely on 1 piece of gear. But, I assume you're somewhere between the bottom and the top of the route, and couldn't finish it to the top anchor??? yes???
OK, so, you must have lead the route to where you are... correct??? which means you have draws on the bolts below you. This, in my book counts as the backup gear. For a while anyway... Of course, you're going to get to the point where you have more rope out than the distance you are from the ground. This is your biggest problem...
However, if you clip a biner into the highest bolt you reached (and you might be able to clip two but probably not), say, an oval, Black Diamond for the heck of it, clip the rope into that and start to get lowered, cleaning your draws on the way down...
Yeah, there is a chance, slim or thick, that the biner could blow and you fall to your death (lets say there's rock scree at the bottom and you hit your head... DEAD)
That is part of the game/saftey question of rock climbing.
Now, I use the Black Diamond oval as a reference because I just happen to have a brand new one I bought tonite at REI sitting right here. It is relatively inexpesive ($4.98 if you buy one at a time), has a closed gate rating of 18kn (approximately 4000 ft lbs of force); will it blow?? maybe... but probably not, especially if you use one that is in decent shape...
If you use a BD Light D, which is maybe a dollar and change more than the oval you get I think 21kn closed gate rating.
The better question is the bolt... is it in good condition??? is it rusted??? is it new??? I think lowering off 1 biner isn't the problem. Now we're back to the whole rock climbing saftey thing. Let's say you can make it to the top of this route, but you take a couple falls on the way. Are you any safer clipping a draw and taking a 15 footer on that bolt than you would be clipping a biner into it and lowering off??? I don't know either; depends on the bolt but this is the risk you are taking climbing this route...
Long and short, be as safe as you possibly can. Are you gonna die? YES! Will the cause be poor saftey practices? I don't know but you probably do...
Just be sure to clip the biner so the gate is away from the rock and lower steadily.
Then, go find that ropegun and have him lead it for you so you can work it on top rope. But be aware, he may want to keep your biner.
Be safe!
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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toobigtoclimb
Jun 14, 2002, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
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Sometimes you just have to...but you can leave biners on as many bolts as you want.
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