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forkliftdaddy
Jan 3, 2005, 7:44 PM
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went on a short road trip last week to GA and was struck by the amount of undeveloped rock at Lost Wall. on the first wall we climbed an arete that is not listed in the Dixie Cragger's. it is near the first large waterfall, on the left end of the Guzzler wall. it the last big arete before Spider Fighter, between Maybe Not and Clodhopper. to the right was a face with a fixed beak and a couple of fixed pins. does anyone know if this has been done before and if so what the given rating is?
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
the line starts on the left side of the arete and climbs some blocky features to a stance from which you can place a nut in the right edge of a horizontal to the left. from here, a cruxish move leads to a balancy stance from which you place a nut (or small TCU) on the right side of the arete. next, a cruxy sequence leads to a horizontal out right that takes gear for the finish (#1 Camalot and big HB brass offset) and a nice ledge on the left. the short finishing arete has better holds on the left, but your gear is down and right giving the ledge fall potential. a safer alternative is to start left, then step right so as to stay away from the ledge.
i would call the route a commiting 5.8. you must climb above your gear. the rock is very clean and the protection is excellent if a bit sparse.
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dirtineye
Jan 3, 2005, 8:36 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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There are a lot of new routes at Lost Wall, that will be in the new DCA whenever it comes out. Many of the newest ones will not make the guide however, be caue of the timing.
How far down have you been? Beaver Cleaver (old known route) at marker 10 is a pretty nice 5.8 arrete, from marker 6 to 10 are many new routes.
One that did make the guide is Trickster, Arno, 5.12b, take doubles and prepare to french free the crux, but still below that is an 11b/c sequence that is well worth a shot and very mind expanding haha. Crux is protected by two pitons.
Not sure about the spot you are talking about, don't do much at that end, but to the right of Clodhopper is a route by Scot Perkins, however it is not 5.8.
Tell me you are not the person who is taking the rap gear off some of the better new routes in the nether world.
BTW, the road to lost wall and rock town is getting so bad, even the rescue squads are worried. Make your feelings about the rotten road known to the powers that be in GA, or pretty soon you won't be getting to rock town or Lost wall without 4wd.
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forkliftdaddy
Jan 3, 2005, 8:54 PM
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dirt, careful where you point that thing. i'm no gear thief. i guess i forgot to mention that (and that this was my first visit to Lost Wall). i did notice that nuts and hangers are missing off of a couple of the bolts on Future's Window.
i figured there must be a ton of new routes as the DCA is 6 years old now. i did see some chalk on the face to the left of the arete in question, to the right of Clodhopper. perhaps that is the Scot Perkins route to which you refer. perhaps you are talking about the face to the right of the arete with the fixed gear.
regarding the road, we saw numerous non-4WD vehicles up top: minivans, a Saturn, a 2WD pickup truck, etc. and being used to pretty rough roads here in NC, i thought the road was in decent shape. if you can provide contact info, however, i'll gladly lend a hand in getting the road repaired.
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dirtineye
Jan 3, 2005, 9:34 PM
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Yes you can still get up it in most vehicles, but over the last 3 or 4 months things have gotten so much worse it is unbelieveable, and without repairs things will soon be just awful. The main problem is water now flows across the road, because the drainage ditches and culverts filled in. It only took a few good storms to go from decnt to what it is now.
Here's the best I can do on short notice.
http://www.gadnr.org/
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rijid
Jan 3, 2005, 9:51 PM
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I was recently at the Lost Wall and came to realize that not all things need to be found.
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dirtineye
Jan 3, 2005, 10:18 PM
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In reply to: I was recently at the Lost Wall and came to realize that not all things need to be found.
Haha, then you need to know the pet name for Lost Wall that those who share your view have for the place: Chossed Wall.
If you didn't go past marker 4, you didn't see the best stuff there. 5 Star Sex, for example, would be a great route anywhere, but you have to go past marker 6 to get there.
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rijid
Jan 3, 2005, 10:25 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2003
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Au contrere, mon frere. I had a guided tour which happened to include this very route. If this route truly reflects a southern gentlemen's idea of five star sex, I now undertsand why incest is so popular among y'all: It was dirty, covered with bugs, and I had a hard time looking at myself in the mirror afterwards.
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