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crankcase
Dec 1, 2004, 10:15 PM
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Ok, lets hear it -- the best routes at smith (10-12 range). i've only been a handful of times so my experience is meager:
Reason to Be - 5.10d
Ring of Fire - 5.11b
Heinous Cling - 5.12a
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coldclimb
Dec 1, 2004, 10:21 PM
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coldclimb moved this thread from Sport Climbing to Regional Discussions.
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coldclimb
Dec 1, 2004, 10:22 PM
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Well I've only been there once, but the best route I found was Let's Face it 5.10b. Just fit my style so perfectly. :D I loved it!
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davidji
Dec 1, 2004, 10:26 PM
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In reply to: Ok, lets hear it -- the best routes at smith (10-12 range). i've only been a handful of times so my experience is meager: Reason to Be - 5.10d Ring of Fire - 5.11b Heinous Cling - 5.12a
In the 10 to 12 range, Chain Reaction is the one of the most amazing looking, but I'll have to see if I'm climbing hard enough next visit (or ever).
Not only is Monkey Space a great sport climb, but it actually takes you somewhere (to the top of Monkey Face Spire).
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slablizard
Dec 1, 2004, 11:23 PM
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I'm so attracted by those pics of "Dreamin" 12a. I'm sure It will scare the shit out of me. Runout.
Never been there yet so...
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pancaketom
Dec 1, 2004, 11:50 PM
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mmmm dreaming. what a great route. pretty scary too, but we tested out most of the falls without any injury.
first pitch of 5 easy pieces is pretty sweet.
chain reaction has some cool moves, but it a lot harder than others mentioned.
magic light is pretty nice if you can get through the line.
Check out the gorge for totally different climbing too.
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dynoguy
Dec 2, 2004, 12:04 AM
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I climb at Smith just about every weekend. Here's my list
best 10-Cruel Sister, defenitely one of the best and hardest 10a's I've ever climbed, anywhere.
Headless horseman is a really good, long .10d
best 11- Heresy, although short it is unlike any route I've climbed at Smith
Magic Light is awesome, very pumpy
Toxic is a must do, as well as Blue Light Special.
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phillygoat
Dec 2, 2004, 12:28 AM
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Gotta love Vomit Launch and Wartley's Revenge!
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slablizard
Dec 2, 2004, 12:54 AM
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Hey Dyno
In my quest to find the place that makes me go "WOOOOOW" in USA ( sport-climbing wise ) My last chance is Smith Rock.
WHen is the best season to be there and enjoy those climbs?
I went "wow" already at Yosemite and JT of course, but climbing wise they're not exactly my favourites (so far). They look beautiful thou.
In reply to: I climb at Smith just about every weekend. Here's my list best 10-Cruel Sister, defenitely one of the best and hardest 10a's I've ever climbed, anywhere. Headless horseman is a really good, long .10d best 11- Heresy, although short it is unlike any route I've climbed at Smith Magic Light is awesome, very pumpy Toxic is a must do, as well as Blue Light Special. |
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overit
Dec 2, 2004, 12:58 AM
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It's been 10 years but I remember liking these routes:
Moons over Pluto-10d
Overboard-11a
Vomit Launch-11b
Latin Lover-12a
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acacongua
Dec 2, 2004, 1:24 AM
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I need to get out there again!! That place is beautiful. Are there a lot of regulars for Smith on this board?
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davidji
Dec 2, 2004, 2:21 AM
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In reply to: chain reaction has some cool moves, but it a lot harder than others mentioned. |
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bluesky
Dec 2, 2004, 2:44 AM
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Been some years since I've been here, but once a classic usually still a classic, eh? Here's my list of favorites where * = FIVE STARS in my book.
10's
Zebra / Zion 10a (Morning Glory - Trad)
Cruel Sister 10a (Lower Gorge - Trad)
Barbeque the Pope 10b (Dihedrals)
Screaming Yellow Zonkers 10b (Mesa Verde)
Bloodclot 10b (LG - Trad)
Badfinger 10b (LG - Trad)
Moon's of Pluto 10d * (Mesa Verde)
11's
Pure Palm 11a * (Lower Gorge)
Toxic 11b (Aggro Gulley)
Wartley's Revenge 11b (Christian Brothers E - Trad)
Vomit Launch 11b * (Cocaine Gulley)
Monkey Space 11b (Monkey Face - **** for position *** for climbing)
? 11c (Upper Gorge - forgot name)
Ring of Fire 11d (Ch. Bros E)
12's
(Not as much exp. at this grade at Smith - maybe a roadtrip will fix that!)
? 12a (Arete on Monkey Face - forgot name)
Latest Rage 12b * (Dihedrals)
Chain Reaction 12c (Dihedrals)
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stp
Jan 10, 2005, 8:26 PM
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Last Waltz (5.12b) is a stunning line - an alternative to Latest Rage.
Spank the Monkey (5.12a) another stunning arete with some longer than average runouts.
Boy Prophet (5.12b) is another very nice route, bit run out at the top.
Darkness at Noon - first bit (5.12c) cool technical wall climbing and well worth doing.
Chain Reaction (5.12c) such a famous, unique line and interesting balancy climbing.
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slavetogravity
Jan 10, 2005, 9:08 PM
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Two words
Zebra. Zion.
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pancaketom
Jan 10, 2005, 9:39 PM
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Chain reaction is 12c (sort of bouldery weird climbing different from most of Smith), the first pitch of heinous cling is 12a, the second pitch is 12c (and runout, although not in the 12c part). Most people only do the first pitch especially when there aren't draws hanging on the second.
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katydid
Jan 12, 2005, 2:48 PM
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Wedding Day
Zebra/Zion
Trezlar
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jer
Jan 12, 2005, 4:22 PM
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hey- my little bro is moving to bend next week, and wants me to go with him for the weekend. How warm does it have to be to be climbable/enjoyable at smith?
jer
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stevep
Jan 12, 2005, 5:19 PM
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I'd agree with most of the suggestions here, and have some comments on some of the 12s.
Chain Reaction and full Heinous Cling are both the same grade, and are both great routes, but are about as different as you can get.
Last Waltz is the same grade as those two and is a good route, but at least to me felt much harder. As hard as Kings of Rap if not harder.
Spank the Monkey is great and in a spectacular position, but bring your balls.
I think the best 12a in the park is Dreamin.
As for temps, 30s and 40s can be great if it's sunny and there's not much wind, or they can be marginal if it's cloudy and windy.
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crackmd
Jan 12, 2005, 6:05 PM
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There was a pic on the cover of last year's Metolius catalog of the North Face of the Monkey which looks like an amazing sustained thin crack. I think it is rated 5.12a. Has anybody been on this? Is it as awesome as that pic makes it look? It is not in the RC.com route database. It is high on my ticklist.
It has been many years since I last climbed at Smith, but my favorites were Moons of Pluto and E Type Jag.
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crackjammer
Jan 13, 2005, 12:18 AM
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Trad
1. Cruel Sister
2. Morning Star
3. Karate Crack
4. Zebra Zion
5. Kunza Corner
6. Promethius
7. Badfinger
8. Wartley's Revenge
9. Moonshine Dihedral
Sport:
1. Latest Rage
2. Heinous Cling
3. Chain Reaction
4. Moons of Pluto
5. Screaming Yellow Zonkers
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johnny_b_goode
Jan 13, 2005, 12:43 AM
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ahhhh smith, best memories
definitely check out phoenix
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ajp
Jan 13, 2005, 12:49 AM
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I thought Toxic (11b) was a lot of fun! Overhanging buckets with good exposure.
:D
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motomagik
Jan 13, 2005, 1:06 AM
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I lead sport in the 10's, so this is all that I know, not too much different from what I've read already :
Moons of Pluto, Screaming Yellow Yonkers at Mesa Verde are both super cool.
Wedding Day in the Dihedrals
I've heard Vomit Launch described as one of the best sport routes at the grade (11b, I think)
I've also heard that Chain Reaction is hard for the grade, but is a popular one to send, being on the cover of the guide book!
As for weather right now, they have actually been getting some snow down there, but if that's you're thing then go to it. A bit cold for me. There aren't a whole lot of sunny days down there right now....It's atrts getting good end of Feb - March.
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