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brundige
Jan 14, 2005, 4:38 AM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
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recommended rack for the nose
?
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glyrocks
Jan 14, 2005, 5:06 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Small to medium camp tri cams. Lots of them. Hundreds of them. Also bring small to medium Aliens. The eyebrows you'll run into protect best with tricams and nuts though. And bring two ropes, I think you need them to rap back down. Have fun smearing, stretch your calfs when you get done.
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bumblie
Jan 14, 2005, 12:50 PM
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The standard recommendation is to take two (or even three) tricams (sizes .5, 1 & 1.5), and double up on small SLCDs.
This route has two 5.8 moves. The rest is a number grade lower. The 2nd pitch crux is protected by a .5 or 1 tricam. If you have a standard rack (including .5 - 2 tricams) you should be fine.
Take two ropes (for rapping down).
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clarki
Jan 14, 2005, 1:17 PM
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When you show up at the base of the cliff to do the Nose and there are 2 parties ahead of you (quite a popular route!) go to the right about 100 feet and head up Peregrine or Sundial Crack instead. Both cool routes, infact I think I like Sundial better than the Nose; more sustained with 30 feet of cool, casual handcrack in the middle of it all.
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glyrocks
Jan 14, 2005, 1:48 PM
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Sundial is definitely better than The Nose. I don't really think The Nose is that great. Once you've done 30' of slab and eyebrow hauling, you've done it all. At least Sundial offers some variation. Personally, I'd skip The Nose and head over to the South face. But, I suppose The Nose is a 'classic' that everyone 'must do' to experience NC climbing, or something cliche like that.
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bumblie
Jan 14, 2005, 3:34 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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The thing (to me) that makes the Nose area unique is the setting. You're climbing on a big clean dome. No vegatation, except lichen. No broken ledges. Just rock and sky. You definitely get the feeling you're getting up off the ground. The belays offer exceptional views. All in all, it's very aesthetic(sp?).
Sundial is slightly harder. It's more sustained. Also, it gets direct sun about 30-45 minutes sooner than The Nose. Something to consider if it's cold.
One more thing - Hit the trail by eight. Show up at ten and you may be waiting a couple of hours.
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jonnyb
Jan 14, 2005, 7:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
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Hmm, as I remember it, I didn't bring much gear at all. A few small TCUs, some Camalots, and a handful of nuts. All the belays are bolted, and unless things have changed, there's a fixed pin protecting the crux. The upper 2 pitches dont have much gear, but are pretty easy. It's been years, though, so I may not be remembering accuarately.
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bootleg
Jan 15, 2005, 1:36 AM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2003
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Fixed pin is still there.
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floridaputz
Jan 15, 2005, 2:17 AM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2002
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The Nose is the most popular route at the nose area, but don't be dissapointed if you have to jump on sundial or Falcon instead. I think a lot of Carolina climbers have done this route so many times they forgot how much fun it was the first time. You can really do the second pitch many ways. This is really the crux pitch. You can go left and up, doing a long traverse, or straight up to the pin and on to the traverse or up and right with a direct move onto the ramp. That's how I make it fun when I repeat it.
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