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climberxterra
Jan 14, 2005, 5:04 PM
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I was just wondering how everyone prepares for a comp the day before and the day of the comp.
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chrisparedes
Jan 14, 2005, 11:39 PM
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Well, seeing as tomorrow will be my first comp. (at Boat Rock), I've prepared by making sure I've got plenty of chalk in my bag, I've washed up my shoes a little bit so they are nice and sticky, and I've clipped my finger and toe nails real well. Other than that I plan on stretching very well before I go to bed and hope for the best tomorrow.
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neuroshock
Jan 15, 2005, 1:27 AM
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1-2 day(s) before, do nothing overly active--rest days.
night before, cut nails, stay hydrated, and get a good night's sleep.
that day, eat breakfast and stretch. be sure to keep hydrated all day long. if the comp is long enough, i'll take several small breaks to have some GORP and water. otherwise, for me, it's climbing nearly non-stop.
in my experience, this strategy works well at both ABS comps and Triple Crown Comps--YMMV.
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skecthballer
Jan 15, 2005, 1:37 AM
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What i do before comps is alittle different. I prefer to get wasted and have fun with friends i dont often see. Its just like climbing, if you smoke and drink before the night you go out climbing then do it before a comp. Do you really think you'll climb stronger if you dont get your 7 hours of sleep, and remeber you can drink water at the comp too.
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jakedatc
Jan 15, 2005, 3:14 AM
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I don't think there is much to do the day before other than whats been said (other than the drinking etc.. are you kidding me? lol )
i'd suggest more of stuff the weeks leading up to it.. get on as many different types of boulder problems as you can.. slab, overhangs, crimps, slopers.. get used to different styles so that you arent limited to a certain type of route
the day of.. relax.. stretch, listen to music. whatever keeps you loose and ready to climb.. when the comp starts or if they allow warming up then do some really easy problems to get your head in climbing mode.. keep hydrated.. bring a brush and don't be afraid to use it if holds start getting gunked up.. which they do
if they allow you to walk around and look at problems beforehand you should.. figure out what looks to be in your range and a few that are scored over but maybe dont look so bad.. sometimes there are softies that can snag you some points
pace yourself.. you usually need 5-7 climbs on your card.. dont waste all your energy on V1's if you are looking to get on V4s or something(random #'s.. u get what i mean) if you start getting pumped out. rest. just like a normal day of climbing.. usually there is a few hours of climbing time..
have fun... learn.. watch the finals.. they are usually dramatic and have some quality climbers
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kdchampion
Jan 27, 2005, 3:22 PM
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What do people generally eat the morning before a comp? Bagel? cereal? 5 egss with a pound of bacon drizzling in grease?
What about the night before?
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nrvna963
Jan 27, 2005, 4:41 PM
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If you haven’t climbed almost everyday for the past few months then don’t do any climbing the few days before the comp. You could do some pull ups/ sit ups to keep your muscles "toned" if you feel compelled to do something, but you need your finger tips in tip top condition for the comp. If you have climbed almost everyday then go out and do some "easy" climbing.
Another big thing to remember is to stay relaxed. The worst thing you can do at a comp if your not doing as well as you thought is to get frustrated. Develop an "i don’t care how hard I send, I just want to have fun and do my best" attitude.
You don’t have to worry about what you eat as much as other sports such as running, but I wouldn’t eat anything really bad. Make sure you have enough carbs, protein, nutrients, and water and you should be fine, lol.
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natas
Jan 27, 2005, 5:01 PM
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Here is what I do. About an hour or so before, I drink a few beers or whatever you like, and then take a few rips from the bizong. I find it quite relaxing. But I don't take comps very seriously.
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natas
Jan 27, 2005, 5:02 PM
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Here is what I do. About an hour or so before, I drink a few beers or whatever you like, and then take a few rips from the bizong. I find it quite relaxing. But I don't take comps very seriously.
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nrvna963
Jan 28, 2005, 5:50 PM
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Drugs are for weak little babies...
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nrvna963
Jan 28, 2005, 5:51 PM
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I probably dont want to know what i just started.
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dlintz
Jan 28, 2005, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: What do people generally eat the morning before a comp? Bagel? cereal? 5 egss with a pound of bacon drizzling in grease? What about the night before?
Quad mochas the morning of and bourbon the night before.
d.
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