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muslmutt
Jan 18, 2005, 3:42 PM
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Registered: Jul 17, 2004
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What does your rack look like when going to a new area? You could not possibly take it all. Your partner is good to carry shoes, harness, and water. So the ropes and rack are yours. You have a guide book so you know the routes are 2 pitches or less and very few bolts. But like most guide books it gives no info. on gear.
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chronicle
Jan 18, 2005, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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Unless I am guiding, then I split the weight between me and my partner. So, one person carries the rope, the other carries the rack shoes, etc. It works out so that each person is carrying the same amount of weight. Going to a new climb where the beta isn't complete about the size of pro to carry, I will take cams from #0 TCU up to a #3.5 BD Camelot. Double nuts in all sizes, double cams from #1 TCU up to #2 Camelot. Doubles of Pink, Red, Brown tricams. Maybe a set of hexes in the smaller sizes (no cowbells). Of course it will vary depending on the area. That is what I have been taking to the Deleware Water Gap since the guidebook describes the route but not the pro, and the RDB has incomplete data for most of the routes there. Have fun and be safe.
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slavetogravity
Jan 18, 2005, 5:53 PM
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In reply to: Your partner is good to carry shoes, harness, and water. So the ropes and rack are yours. . My partner is good to carry the shoes, harness, and water???!! And I'm left humping 20+ pounds of rope and rack??!! Good gravy! My partner’s good for nothing, is more like it. The approach to this "new area" of yours better be short. Like, fall out of the truck and there you are, short. Anyway, My rack rarely changes regardless of where I'm going. Unless I'm going to go sport climbing. Or going to Indian Creek.
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muslmutt
Jan 18, 2005, 7:18 PM
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Yup that is what I ment to say. The partner is good to cary shoes, harnesses, and water. That's it. She weighs 115 or 120. A 20 lb. pack would be light by my standard.
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healyje
Jan 18, 2005, 7:35 PM
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Ah, this is actually almost an ideal situation - you now only need to lose the guide book, eschew all beta, and just pretend like no one has ever climbed there before. Take a risk, do a dare, jump on that rock completely unaware! Trust your eyes - check it out, grab what looks like reasonable gear (good suggestions in this thread) and just climb...!
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veganboyjosh
Jan 18, 2005, 8:01 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Dec 22, 2003
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In reply to: Yup that is what I ment to say. The partner is good to cary shoes, harnesses, and water. That's it. She weighs 115 or 120. A 20 lb. pack would be light by my standard. why can;'t she wear her harness, with shoes/water/gear clipped to it opn the approach? that leaves her back free for a small pack. well, i suppose if you're cool hauling all that stuff yourself, then go for it.
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muslmutt
Jan 18, 2005, 9:08 PM
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She has my harness, shoes,water also. Sometimes she gets a rope. I am lucky she likes to climb. If that is what I have to do for her to have a good time, then what's the big deal. Like I said 20 lbs is a light pack to me. I usually end up with closer to 35lbs or more. Just trying to whittle it down a little.
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maculated
Jan 18, 2005, 10:13 PM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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In reply to: What does your rack look like when going to a new area? You could not possibly take it all. Your partner is good to carry shoes, harness, and water. So the ropes and rack are yours. You have a guide book so you know the routes are 2 pitches or less and very few bolts. But like most guide books it gives no info. on gear. I take my whole rack, plus shoes, harness, water, etc . . . I have a complete rack, rope, slings, sometimes aid gear, first aid kit, all that - and I still take it to a new area on my own back. It probably weighs 40 pounds, but its good exercise, and I am well prepared. The only time I opt to leave stuff out is if I am FAMILLIAR with an area.
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muslmutt
Jan 18, 2005, 10:28 PM
Post #10 of 11
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Yup. That's what I've been doing for a long time. And how I look at it. A good work out. Somtimes I wonder how nuts I am.
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timmy_t
Jan 19, 2005, 12:24 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Dec 23, 2004
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What you have to do is clip all your draws and a set of nuts to your harness when before she puts it in her pack. It's still less than her share, lightens your pack, and speeds up racking. On what to bring... that is a very wide open question. It depends on the grade, style, length of route, type of rock, and your mental abilities to name a few. I would suggest reading the description (if you have one) very carefully to determine what certain climbs might take (5.10a finger crack needs no big bros). After cutting the rack to what you think you need, cut out a few cams and/or a couple nuts. It's lighter and it gets you in good habits to rely on yourself, not your technology, if you are into that sort of thing. Either way, have fun!!
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