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Anchor poll...
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jcr


Jan 27, 2005, 10:48 AM
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Anchor poll...
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The poll on the other post seemed to disappear so here it is again.... what is your preference?? and why??

JC


abouttopeel


Jan 27, 2005, 11:13 AM
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I use the rope AND a daisy or draws depending on the situation.


veganboyjosh


Jan 27, 2005, 11:27 AM
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rope and slings, mostly. but i'm not opposed to using hte others, if that's what's on hand.


duckwalk


Jan 27, 2005, 12:02 PM
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Tie Figure 8 on a bight into slings or if the bolts are close, a double figure 8 into two lockers. I like the rope because it offers me the option of easily adjusting the length without fumbling with the slings. On hanging belay this usually isn't big deal, so in that case I go with the slings straight to the harness.


jcr


Jan 27, 2005, 12:40 PM
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Ive seen lots of people prefer runners to any other..... what are your thoughts on anchoring into two bolts instead of three??? How many of you consider this safe enough????


JC


caughtinside


Jan 27, 2005, 12:42 PM
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I anchor on 2 bolts all the time. I consider it safe enough.


jcr


Jan 27, 2005, 4:30 PM
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In reply to:
I anchor on 2 bolts all the time. I consider it safe enough.

ok, so the question I guess should be.... do you anchor on two bolts even if there are three you could anchor to???

I rig top ropes on two bolts all the time but never rig anchors on two bolts when there is the posibility to hook up on three.

JC


justafurnaceman


Jan 27, 2005, 4:54 PM
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Two anchors are fine, but why not anchor to the third? yeah more gear to climb with but if it makes you safer why not use it. It would get out of hand if you were trying to anchor 4,5,6,7,8,... times.


jcr


Jan 28, 2005, 1:54 PM
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In reply to:
It would get out of hand if you were trying to anchor 4,5,6,7,8,... times.

I dont think you will find that many bolts in an anchor station.....

JC


jackhammer


Jan 28, 2005, 3:21 PM
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I use a runner with 4 biners (2 each side, opposing)


joneiche


Jan 28, 2005, 3:46 PM
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If we're swinging leads the rope. If we're leading in blocks runners/cordolette etc.


justafurnaceman


Jan 29, 2005, 2:37 PM
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Quote:
It would get out of hand if you were trying to anchor 4,5,6,7,8,... times.


I dont think you will find that many bolts in an anchor station.....

JC


My point is that there is a period that redunancy fails to make you any safer than you already are. 3 is probably the magic number.


wa_hoo


Jan 29, 2005, 7:07 PM
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Great poll - I am just starting to lead outside and have been shown to anchor off the bolts with runners and was wondering what other people do and what's most common! Thanks!


Partner coldclimb


Jan 29, 2005, 8:52 PM
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If it's two bolts, two runners work fine for me. Quick and easy. If there were three, I'd equalize runners, most likely, but it all depends.


naw


Jan 30, 2005, 5:31 AM
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I use an equalized cordelette backed up by a clove hitch on the rope. It takes me about 30 seconds longer to equalize and tie the cordelette and back it up on the clove but it keeps me from getting lazy for trad.


1800lotions


Jan 30, 2005, 2:58 PM
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I always tie a double figure eight in the rope and then clip both loops to the anchors. This is effective because the rule of thumb is the least amount of links the better and you are always tied in for leap frogging pitches. It is also nice to be able to move quickely on long routes and utalizing your rope to the fullest extent works well!
Good poll though, I would love to hear someother ideas from people that favor a different method, I am old so I try and keep it simple....


jcr


Mar 9, 2005, 7:50 AM
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In reply to:
I always tie a double figure eight in the rope and then clip both loops to the anchors.

Yeah well, but then again that is if you have two bolts, but what if you have three... would you use all three of them or just the two??


JC


rockhound71


Mar 9, 2005, 7:54 AM
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For the most part, I use the rope and a daisy. On occasion, I use a runner.


chronicle


Mar 9, 2005, 9:00 AM
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I usually build an anchor with runners on sport climbs. I don't carry a cordelette on sport climbs.


altelis


Mar 9, 2005, 9:12 AM
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clip into a draw i put on the anchor, "take", clip in daisy, then put a clove hitch on the draw. easy as pie. maybe takes 20 seconds total. and why would i use the third bolt? if i equalize correctly i won't shock load the anchor, and its not worth the time. if something happens i can then add the third (now second) bolt. call me a lazy sport climber, but hey, i haven't had a problem yet...plus, i think i've come across three bolt anchors like twice in 5 years


kubi


Mar 9, 2005, 11:31 AM
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correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't daisys only rated for ~500 lb?


reno


Mar 9, 2005, 11:50 AM
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I carry two "locking draws" (dogbone with lockers on each end,) and tie a Fig8 to one, Clove Hitch to the other.

So my answer: "None of the above."


sonso45


Mar 9, 2005, 12:14 PM
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I concur with naw, I use a daisy chain and the rope w/clove hitch. Two separate connections make me feel safer.


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