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Bolting the BLM
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rowdyburro


Jan 29, 2005, 6:29 PM
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Bolting the BLM
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:?: Hey All, does anyone have knowledge of BLM requirements for route setting, bolting, use of pitons? Do people typically contact these agencies before setting a route? I'm in an area where there are virtually no sport climbing routes. :cry:


sonso45


Jan 29, 2005, 7:03 PM
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Re: Bolting the BLM [In reply to]
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BLM has no restrictions to speak of unless the place you wish to develop is a wilderness or another protected area. Good luck. M


rowdyburro


Jan 30, 2005, 6:05 PM
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Re: Bolting the BLM [In reply to]
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Hey Thanks,

I appreciate the heads up. Can someone give me an idea how well one of those hand rock drills work in granite. I have actually used a 3/8" star drill to set fixe ss bolts. It can take me over 2hrs. to drill a hole. This granite is so hard it has bent two already. I'm considering a 24 volt hammer drill. I can't afford the big guns.


sonso45


Jan 31, 2005, 2:14 PM
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A hand drill in granite is very difficult and time consuming but worth using for the right reasons, like weight savings or wilderness. Use a bosch, find a person who can teach you how to use it then have fun and try not to get too bolt happy. M


rradjc


Jan 31, 2005, 2:18 PM
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Re: Bolting the BLM [In reply to]
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are you putting up routes in the Dona Anas or Organs?


rowdyburro


Feb 6, 2005, 2:11 PM
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Neither, I have some crags a little closer to home. Maybe I'll share them with you all at a later date.


healyje


Feb 6, 2005, 5:03 PM
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Re: Bolting the BLM [In reply to]
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Are you putting up anchors? sport lines? Mixed? Is there trad pro placements on these routes? Has this area been climbed before? Have you talked to any of the folks that climb there if it has?

As was said, don't go crazy bolting things...


rowdyburro


Feb 7, 2005, 8:14 PM
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Re: Bolting the BLM [In reply to]
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I appreciate the concern about bolt placements etc., especially from those of you who are experienced. This particular slab would I think be considered a face climb. The 1st pitch is about a 65 deg. incline, 50 meters. Lots of good hand and foot holds, but no cracks. Then it turns to about 80 deg. for the next 30 meters and then begins to round off and 20 meters the top. I have checked for cracks and crannys for placing pro and there are none. Granted an experienced climber could walk up this granite slab, but after dropping my drill battery and watching it roll 50 meters, I definitely need some permanent protection. This will be a 2 pitch sport route for beginners. I think the Apaches are the only people who have climbed this route, about 140 years ago. The nearest climbing wall is 65 miles away and I'll be able to hit this within 20 minutes from the house. You know I am relatively new to climbing and it is unfortunate to hear how many good climbs have become trade routes for the over zealous. I'll be happy to let you know how I progress, and because safety is always a paramount concern to me, I would rather remove the bolts altogether than have someone get hurt, or a crowd ruin the site.


healyje


Feb 8, 2005, 5:13 PM
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Re: Bolting the BLM [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I appreciate the concern about bolt placements etc., especially from those of you who are experienced. This particular slab would I think be considered a face climb. The 1st pitch is about a 65 deg. incline, 50 meters. Lots of good hand and foot holds, but no cracks. Then it turns to about 80 deg. for the next 30 meters and then begins to round off and 20 meters the top. I have checked for cracks and crannys for placing pro and there are none. Granted an experienced climber could walk up this granite slab, but after dropping my drill battery and watching it roll 50 meters, I definitely need some permanent protection. This will be a 2 pitch sport route for beginners. I think the Apaches are the only people who have climbed this route, about 140 years ago. The nearest climbing wall is 65 miles away and I'll be able to hit this within 20 minutes from the house. You know I am relatively new to climbing and it is unfortunate to hear how many good climbs have become trade routes for the over zealous. I'll be happy to let you know how I progress, and because safety is always a paramount concern to me, I would rather remove the bolts altogether than have someone get hurt, or a crowd ruin the site.

Glad to hear you're thinking about it all. You might want to reconsider the "safety" aspect of things, though. If you make things absolutely safe, i.e. reproduce the nearest gym outdoors on this rock, you will have crowds. You may want to consider leaving it a bit more adventurous than that...


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