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bler
Jan 30, 2005, 6:25 AM
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so, is the difference in difficulty between a V0-V1 the same as between a V10-V11 ?
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kriso9tails
Jan 30, 2005, 6:24 PM
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I'll tell you what... you wait here while I go get strong enough to tell you the answer. Uh... it might take a while. If you mean V0-V1 and V10-V11 specifically then I couldn't tell you since it would largely depend on the climber and a given area's overall grading style. I'm assuming that's not what you meant though. Most climbers have a tendancy to hit certain grade barriers. They may progress evenly through the grades up until say V5 but then take forever to hit V6 and then return to a steadier progression. Even so, I think this only works to a certain point where eventually you will be pushing your limits. Before you were simply getting your body accustomed to the necessary movements and building up the necesary physique yet still working reasonably within your natural limits, but now you're pushing the limits of your technique and potential strength which is going to happen at a different point for every climber. Perhaps after you've climbed consistantly at a higher grade the relation between lower grades becomes more consistant, but then again, even to me, a fairly weak climber, there is typically little difference between the average V0 and the average V1 (the word average is sort of a bad choice). I'd imagine to a climber who regularily sends in the double digits the difference would be almost negligible.
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extrasketch
Jan 30, 2005, 7:56 PM
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no
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Jan 30, 2005, 9:34 PM
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I can tell you there is as much variation within V1 as there is within 5.10.
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nrvna963
Jan 30, 2005, 10:00 PM
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Climbing grades are extremely trivial, so the answer to your question is yes and no. I would say there are generally larger differences between V9 and V10, and V11 and V12, just because people dont want to grade something that hard unless they are really sure its accurate.
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ikefromla
Jan 30, 2005, 11:13 PM
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V4 is the hardest grade to climb. period.
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gunksgoer
Jan 31, 2005, 12:06 AM
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yes, the difference between higher grade problems is way smaller then lower grade ones. example: on really easy climbs, ill get up the thing, and if u asked me what grade it was, i might say anywhere between 5.0 and 5.4; 4 grades difference. if i got on something without knowing the grade that is kinda hardish for me, a 10 or so, id probably say it was a 10a to 10d, just 4 letter grades difference. if my descretion was four number grades like easier climbs, in theory, if there was even spacing in between grades, id be guessing somewhere between 5.8 and 5.12, no? just some food for thought, if i explained things clearly.
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bandidopeco
Jan 31, 2005, 12:07 AM
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Yes, the difference is exactly, mathematically the same. Just as the difference between a V6 and a V6.203 is the exact same as the difference between a V3.1 and a V3.303. However if the V scale were similar to the Richter(sp) scale a V9 would be 10 times as difficult as a V8.
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bler
Jan 31, 2005, 1:51 AM
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first off, you have to take for granted the V rating scale, witch is not a science, and with that.. does it progressivley get harder/easier at the same rate as you go up the scale, or does the difficulty rate remain the same ? not that I really care much about grading scales, but they are good for training and progressing as a climber, just something I wondered about..
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andy_reagan
Jan 31, 2005, 2:09 PM
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In addition, you must remember at any one time no one person can independently and accurately grade a full spectrum of problems (at least no one I've ever met). It seems to be tremendously easier to grade problems closer to your "limit" than not, as a previous poster alluded to. That it to say, I may be able very easily to tell the difference between a V6 and a V7, but have a hard time distinguishing a V1 from a V2. But Nrvna963 got it right. Grading for the most part is very trivial and should be taken with a few tablespoons of salt.
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symbiosissol
Jan 31, 2005, 9:14 PM
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When considering the difference between successive difficulty ratings there are a few more things to consider. Who rated the problem. For instance a V5 at one place may a lot easier then a V3 someplace else. What type of route...static, dynamic, crimpy, etc.....We tend to be better at certain types, so even though you flashed a crimpy V4, that balancy V3 seems impossible. I'll also add that as you progress through the V-scale, there may not be much difference between a v1 and v2 and a v6 and a v7. Reaching that next step seems to be as hard as the one before that and so on.
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