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incubi81
Feb 1, 2005, 11:26 PM
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Was thinking of going down to Red Rocks in a few weeks to do some walls. Anyone have any good suggestions, (beside the Original Route, already freed that one)? I heard that the Buffalo Wall has a lot of good steep aid routes. Also was wondering if any of the old aid routes have been freed lately? I will most likely be soloing, so routes with mandatory free climbing at or below 5.10 would be best. I only own the "Red Rocks Select" Guidebook and it only lists a few aid routes in there, but I know there is more. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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vegastradguy
Feb 2, 2005, 12:02 AM
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Lesse...Buffalo Wall's Tatanka at 5.10 A3 may be a good choice
The Aeolian Wall on Wilson may be another good option- although hauling sucks, it gets you to the summit of Wilson...
Sergeant Slaughter on Rainbow.
Theres a crapload of 5.10 and under aid routes on Rainbow Wall- take your pick there.
dunno about other stuff. havent heard of anyone freeing any aid routes- probably because there arent that many accessible aid routes here in comparison to other areas.
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actionfigure
Feb 2, 2005, 1:56 AM
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Put something up on the hidden wall :D
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incubi81
Feb 2, 2005, 2:18 AM
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Thanks for your input, vegastradguy! Tatanka sounds good! Have you ever climbed it? I heard it takes a full day to hike in. Is that true? Also, was wondering if it went clean? If not, what type of iron would i need? If anyone else has info on this route, that would be great!
Also, are there any good routes on Hidden Wall? Maybe I should just check it out?
Thanks again!
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rocks4jules
Feb 2, 2005, 3:04 AM
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Make it to the Red Rock Rendezvous Mar 18 - 20th!!! Hope to see you there.
Jules
P.S. It was a blast last year.
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vegastradguy
Feb 2, 2005, 3:31 AM
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the buffalo wall is a wall that, from what i've heard is a huge adventure to get to. i've heard that some routes to the base require 5.10 free climbing...but others only require sketchy 4th class...who knows. i've never been up there. i'm also under the impression that most of those routes have seen fewer than a handful of ascents- mostly because the wall is still virgin territory, and those who go to the trouble of getting there put up a new route....
no clue on the iron count...topo mentions A2 hooking, but the A3 has no marks as far as gear. i'd guess some iron...but i could only speculate. you might check with Mike Ward at Desert Rock- i think he's done the route, but if he hasnt, i'm sure he'd know what sort of gear you'd need.
only one route listed in the book for Hidden Wall- it's a .10+ R/X route....
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flamer
Feb 2, 2005, 2:49 PM
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In reply to: Tatanka sounds good! I heard it takes a full day to hike in.
I've done the approach to Buffalo wall.
It's way more burly than getting to the Rainbow wall. With a load it MIGHT take a day and a half. Mostly just scrambling but there are several areas you'd have to haul your bags. Also as of about 2 years ago there where sgtill some fixed lines in place...butg they were in sorry shape then... The exsisting routes look good, but both appear to have some fairly significant free climbing....look closer at the topo's and description's.... That being said you never know until you go!
The rock on the Buffalo wall appears (through bino's anyway) to be of better quality than the Rainbow wall.
good luck and have fun....
josh
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actionfigure
Feb 3, 2005, 12:41 AM
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the key is to hike to the top of buffalo wall via willow spring and rap down. :wink:
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