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kaylinr
Feb 2, 2005, 3:59 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2004
Posts: 119
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Hello everyone,
I'm planning on buying some half ropes for multi pitch climbing. I was looking for the best price I could find on some 60M doubles. Most prices seem to fall in the 250-350 range. Then I stumbled on a pair of half rope for $125, the only problem is they are 50's. I've got a trip planned to estes this summer, and I'd like to hit up Lumpy and a few other crags.
My question is how much will the 50's limit me, not only at Lumpy, but on future trips to who knows where. Should I cough up the extra $150 for the extra 10M?? I live in Arkansas, so my current single line is going to see the most duty. The doubles are just for the occasional wandering trad route, and out of state multi-pitch routes. Thanks in advance.
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takeme
Feb 2, 2005, 4:40 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2003
Posts: 367
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In reply to: Hello everyone, I'm planning on buying some half ropes for multi pitch climbing. I was looking for the best price I could find on some 60M doubles. Most prices seem to fall in the 250-350 range. Then I stumbled on a pair of half rope for $125, the only problem is they are 50's. I've got a trip planned to estes this summer, and I'd like to hit up Lumpy and a few other crags. My question is how much will the 50's limit me, not only at Lumpy, but on future trips to who knows where. Should I cough up the extra $150 for the extra 10M?? I live in Arkansas, so my current single line is going to see the most duty. The doubles are just for the occasional wandering trad route, and out of state multi-pitch routes. Thanks in advance.
That's a tough one. I began climbing at Lumpy and climbed there for several years with a single 50 meter line, with no issues that I can recall. On the other hand, now that I have 60 meter ropes (a set of halfs, plus a 10mm lead line), I won't go back. I think it depends where you're at with your climbing. Newer routes and newly established rappell routes are much more likely to require, or make you wish you had 60s. On new and/or obscure routes the extra length also has great benefits as belay spots may be easier to miss or harder to come by, so the 60s increase your options. On the other hand, if you think you'll mostly be doing older, established classics for a few years, you'll probably be just fine with the 50s and you can upgrade later. In my earlier Lumpy days, if I'd wanted half ropes, I think I would have jumped on the good deal.
I noticed you have "Kor's Flake" on your tick-list. I love that route, and it's a good example. It can easily be done in 3 full 60 meter pitches. But I didn't do it that way my first time up it, and I don't even think I would have wanted to. The traditional 5 pitches was just fine, and doing the route onsight (ie placing more gear than on repeat ascents when its somewhat wired), it's nice not to have too much rope drag, to be able to communicate more easily, to avoid running out the rope and missing a good belay, etc.
The one major issue that you could run into is if you're doing an old classic where having 50 meter ropes is no problem, but perhaps there's a newer rappel route where the 60 meters are either mandatory or a really good idea. The Petite Grepon in RMNP comes to mind as an example of this--most people use the new rappell route down the east and south faces, because it's much more convenient--but you could always do it the old way, up and out the Gash. I've done it both ways and liked them equally, myself. With the older routes there will usually be an option like that.
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ambler
Feb 2, 2005, 4:42 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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Consider that ropes longer than 50m didn't come into style until the 1990s. Those 1960s, 70s and even most 80s classics around Boulder/Estes were established, and repeated dozens if not thousands of times, using 50m or less.
I doubt you'll find mandatory 60m pitches on many traditional climbs in this area, or their traditional descents. Newer bolted routes could be different, and of course many sport climbs are around 30m, so you need 60m to lower off with one rope.
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bubbahotep
Feb 2, 2005, 5:56 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 97
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I'll sort of repeat what has been said.
In general, you won't have any trouble reaching suitable belay stances using 50M ropes, especially on the older classics. About the only time you really have to have 60M is when using a single rope and rapping from some of the newly established rap/top rope anchors.
That said, I climb with double 60's or a single 70M and love them.
Botom line: If it was me, I'd spring for the extra and buy the 60's because I think you will find that the convenience of that extra 10M was worth the extra $150 or so. If the extra cost means that much, you might consider dropping the dry treatment in favor of 60M, but there are cons to that also. You stated that you were planning on climbing at Lumpy - I almost never use double ropes there. The pitches don't tend to wander that much and if you are careful placing gear and runners, drag isn't usually a problem. A 60 or 70M single works well in this area,as well as most of the other areas in Colorado.
Look me up when you come out if you want some route suggestions or need a partner.
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