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lars
Jun 16, 2002, 3:57 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: May 2, 2002
Posts: 19
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I am just curious what the best method is to clean your quickdraws on a severly overhanging route.
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phil_nev
Jun 16, 2002, 4:26 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Nov 11, 2001
Posts: 361
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Well, this depends on if your talking severly overhanging or a roof.... Either way, it's not the easiest thing in the world to do. For and overhanging route, what i find best is, once uve fed the rope through the anchors and retied in, untied your original knot etc, clip a medium length quickdraw between the rope attached to your harness and the rope going to the anchors. This will stop you from swinging out into space, making it close to impossible to retrieve the draws. Its still not easy, you will have toyank on the rope going to the anchors in order to reach the wall. A thing that helped me was, at the gym i go to, there are a few overhanging climbs that you can do on toprope and neeed to have the draws reclipped on the way back down. Take a draw with you and practice here. For a roof it's a bit more technical. It is most likly that you will have to 'back clean' the route. This involve climbing backwars through the roof and taking the draws of on the way. method will usualy result in falls, however, the best way is to climb as close to the bolt as you can. Ideally, if you can climb back without letting go thats better, but uinless you MR T, u might struglle. When you get to the first draw be VERY carefull, unclip it and make your your belayer spots you. Downclimb very carefully to saftey.... Alterativly, you can lower of the first draw, and boulder up to get it when youve had a rest, or even better, get your belayer to retriev it. I hope that made sense and was of some help..... Cheers, Phil...
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