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eride810
Feb 3, 2005, 2:47 AM
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Considering the nature of Zion Sandstone...
Many of the anchors on Zion climbs are drilled angles, and its not advisable at some belays to have more than two people there at one time, so what's common practice for a trio spending a night in their ledges on a Zion wall with a couple pigs.
[We spent ten days there last March (beautiful weather), but we never slept on the wall. We opted instead for fixed lines, and the obligatory morning jug fueled by eggs, hashbrowns, sausage and LOTS of coffee.]
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epic_ed
Feb 3, 2005, 3:34 AM
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Depends on what route you're talking about. I've only bivied at the top of Rocker Block (Moonlight Buttress) and it was bomber. Most of the trade routes in Zion can be done in a fix and blast style, and this is usually the best strategy unless you're looking at one of the back country routes or one of the hard aid climbs.
Most of the well-traveled routes are reasonably well maintained by the FA-ist or other Zion locals. If you're climbing something off the beaten path, contact the FA-ist or post asking for anchor beta on the route you're looking at.
Ed
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epic_ed
Feb 3, 2005, 3:35 AM
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epic_ed moved this thread from Beginners to Aid Climbing.
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no_one
Feb 5, 2005, 12:15 AM
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As far as trade routes,
Prodical sun has good bivy anchors at the third pitch complete with a little ledge to help make things comfy.
Moonlight has a good bivy at the rocker blocker (top of 3rd pitch) and on party ledge (I think it's the 6th pitch).
Spaceshot has a good bivy at the base of the head wall ( no anchors needed) and an ok bivy at earth orbit ledge ( one pitch from the top)
Monkey finger has the most comfy bivy out of the trade routes i've done in the monkey house. There are two really easy to protect cracks that make fine tuneing the bivy really easy, there is even a nice sandy ledge to stand on with a nice place to sit. You can also do all your crapin in a bag in an oposite corner. Ahhh now thats what makes a nice bivy. Hope I helped.
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eride810
Feb 11, 2005, 3:59 AM
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These things are good to know.
Thanks for the advice, guys!
Parker
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