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kimgraves
Feb 6, 2005, 2:16 PM
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Hi Gang, I’ve gotten permission to put up an “aid route” in my gym tomorrow – bolt hangers on the wall plus hand holds. The route would of course be TRed. The idea would be to teach/practice moving in aiders and top stepping, etc. Anyone have any ideas about what I could do to make this interesting? It's going up a vertical wall and through an overhang. I thought I could throw in a diagonal and maybe a traverse move or two. Thanks, Kim
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lizard0fthetrail
Feb 6, 2005, 4:42 PM
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I've never aided before, so I can't help you much on the topic of setting certain moves or sequences, however, I've never even heard of aid being done in a gym. Cool. Seems like an interesting way to simply try out aid, if not only for the feel of aiders.
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timmy_t
Feb 6, 2005, 5:43 PM
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I think it would be great to have some free spots where they have to get out of their aiders. What great practice for aid to free!!! Good luck, let us know how it goes!!!
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gunksgoer
Feb 6, 2005, 5:51 PM
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sounds like it wouldnt turn out well...there are some things that just cant be done indoors, and i think this is one of them. you could always put up a bolt ladder for people to get their basic system down and learn some top stepping, but gear placements wouldnt really work, and hooks would beat the crap out of the holds. (maybe those globe trytooling holds would be good tho, who knows) good luck tho.
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atg200
Feb 6, 2005, 6:32 PM
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saw most of the way through a couple of the bolts. that'll teach people to bounce test properly. aid climbing in a gym seems about as boring as anything could possibly be.
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wildbillc
Feb 9, 2005, 6:16 PM
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Hey Kimgraves, Last winter in prep for the zodiac I did quite a bit of solo aid in the local gyme. I found the bolts to be spaced close enough that there was no need to set a special route. My routine was to lead up the roof aria to the anchors, tie in and jug up and rap off a few times prior to pulling the rope and doing anouther route. I allso found it to be an ideal setting for learing how to lower out off a piece and stick clipping out onto the beam the crosses the entire gyme. Great practice and a good work out if you add in lots of jugging. I must addmit I felt a bit foolish aiding in the gyme but it is great practice. Cody
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ricardol
Feb 9, 2005, 6:39 PM
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i guess if you live somewhere where there is NO other alternative.. .. most of the time you're better off just going to your local crag and aiding up any pitch ..
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dsafanda
Feb 9, 2005, 7:01 PM
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A guy set up an aid route at my local gym a couple of years ago. It was sort of fun. Some of the strangely featured and thin footholds can make for spicy hook placements. A think crack provided leeper cam placements.
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j_ung
Feb 9, 2005, 7:24 PM
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Sounds like a fun way to spice things up for people who otherwise might never try aiding. I might run the idea by the management at my gym, too. :D
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lambone
Feb 9, 2005, 7:31 PM
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Kim, sounds like you work at the gym and are planning to teach classes. I did the same thing in Seattle, and it worked pretty well. It is best if you can find a spot that is out of the way of the rest of the gym members. Traversing moves are key, straight up gets boring quick. Have your student first lead the pitch, then clean it. Try to make sure it requires a lower-out or two. Go over time and energy saving techniques...and help them reduce the clusterfk factor. It is kind of silly really, but for a beggining aid climber who isn't too picky, it's not a bad way to learn the ropes. Also consider the following lessons related to aiding, anchor set-up and managment, hauling, setting up a bivi, big wall strategy...etc. good luck, have fun
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lambone
Feb 10, 2005, 12:16 AM
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In reply to: We do have a couple of things we need to work out - like how to keep beginners from dropping aiders, etc on the crowd below. Best, Kim use auto locking biners on their daisy chains...that's how I keep from droping mine anyway...
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kimgraves
Feb 10, 2005, 4:37 AM
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Hi Gang, I finished up the aid line in the gym this evening and three of us ran it. It was actually a lot of fun: a diagonal followed by an overhang; a traverse along the overhang then up. I’ll give a full TR under my other post “Learning Aid.” The route probably won’t last long however. The manager is worried because we have school groups coming in and he’s worried that some kid will put their finger through the bolt hanger, fall and loose the finger. Also, it takes some instruction to actually use the aiders, etc. and do the sequence. Not all of the staff are trained to provide that instruction. Fun while it lasted however. Best, Kim
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anykineclimb
Feb 10, 2005, 5:15 AM
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I used to aid up hangers to set routes. I still have the ovals that were gouged Its sort of fun to get all the funny looks from people wondering what you're doing.
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korntera
Feb 12, 2005, 9:09 AM
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I am learning advanced resuce along with basic aid in and indoor setting. We have bolt ladders for 15 feet to a 2 bolt anchor then a 5 foot bolt ladder to a 3 point "trad" anchor so we can practice rescueing people. But we do minimal aid on the bolt ladder. It is great practice and although i have never done aid outdoor i feel much more comfortable doing it now.
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cgailey
Feb 12, 2005, 10:31 AM
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I've aided in my gym....even set up hooking moves and gone up the crack....what you can do just depends on what you have at your disposal...
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kimgraves
Feb 16, 2005, 5:02 PM
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deleted dup. post
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kimgraves
Feb 16, 2005, 5:03 PM
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Hi Gang, The promised TR is up. Best, Kim
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