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p_grandbois
Feb 4, 2005, 12:26 AM
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I am just gonna have to call BS.....only because I am an empirical skeptic and was born this way. I have to see to believe, or hear a personal reliable source....
Cheers Kid
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davidji
Feb 4, 2005, 12:40 AM
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In reply to: A person who had been setting there quietly listening stands up. Jumps up and grabs the bottom of two rafters in pinch grips, cranks out a few pull ups and walks out. It gave a group of well lubricated climbers a pause to catch our breaths! Then we started on the subject how gymnist are ruining climbing and need for 3 points of contact :)
I'm impressed by people (in the story I heard, it was Sharma) who can jump to a rafter and catch it in a one-handed pinch. Don't recall if a pull-up followed, but it doesn't matter: that's some serious contact & pinch strength!
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hasbeen
Feb 4, 2005, 1:00 AM
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Hmm, very impressive. I've not seen that one but I can imagine how one could get the balance down so that is wasn't much harder than doing it on a cord. No, wait, it would still be much harder. Is his name Dave Altman? He has a PhD in math and I've seen him do a few neat tricks, like a one pinky pull-up w/ 30lbs hanging from his waste and a front lever on bolt heads (how about that, skeptic guy?) I've also seen him do a one-arm pinch pull-up on the sloper inside the hand grips on the first generation metolius simulator. Course this was all in the 80's, but my guess is Dave's still super strong. Of course, Dave will tell you he's a weakling comared to Ingar Shu, but that's another story.
I also lived with a bunch of guys into feats of strength. One guy could jump up and grab (pinch) a 2X4 on the 2" side and do a one-arm. Another could do huge campus board drops on one finger, though he got hurt eventually and quite climbing ("if I can't do one-finger campus moves what's the point?")
While this is not a requisit for climbing hard it does not hurt one bit and if there's a top climber who says they can't do a one-arm it's for lack of focus and/or trying.
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davidji
Feb 4, 2005, 1:17 AM
Post #29 of 45
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In reply to: Course this was all in the 80's, but my guess is Dave's still super strong. |
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socalbolter
Feb 4, 2005, 1:31 AM
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Used to be able to do one-finger one arms, using a piece of webbing. Can't honestly say I ever tried it with my pinky (I always used my middle finger).
That said, a one-finger one arm on a door jamb (even if it is 1" wide) is very impressive!
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solidstate
Feb 4, 2005, 1:48 AM
Post #31 of 45
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Hibby11, I think you fell asleep in your math class and had a weired dream.
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hibby11
Feb 4, 2005, 2:08 AM
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I can understand the skeptics and would not believe this story if i'd heard it in a forum, but I was awake and if had a camera would have taken a picture, maybe i'll bring in a video camera and get this on tape. But i just thought it was ridiculous, because i've in the past only heard of people doing one arm pull ups so this was amazing to me.
Given I was in differential equations which if you have taken is going to be a b***h
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tattooed_climber
Feb 4, 2005, 3:48 AM
Post #33 of 45
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i've climbed with a dude that can do that...
VERY impressive....the guy was a psycho climber...so humble....cool dude
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wingnut
Feb 4, 2005, 4:33 PM
Post #34 of 45
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wow!
i wish i could do that.
I can do 5 2 handed doorjamb pullups on a doorframe 1/3 inch wide, more if its wider, but one pinky? wow.
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kdchampion
Feb 4, 2005, 5:38 PM
Post #35 of 45
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Hey Hibby, you go to school in Minnesota? What school and where are you from? I grew up (legally still live) in Champlin.
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bustloose
Feb 7, 2005, 9:19 PM
Post #37 of 45
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In reply to: In reply to: there is absolutely no correlation between being able to do one arm pull ups and climbing hard, never has been, never will be. I will use Rob Chisnall as an example, i met him forever ago, yes the man can do one arm pull ups till the sun goes down, but i don't beleive he ever climbed harder than about 5.12 I disagree. If you took two groups, group A: 100 guys that can do 1 arm pull-ups Group B: 100 guys that can't do 1 arm pullups, on average, Group A would be able to climb higher grades. In fact, your story proves it, Rob climbs 5.12. While that might seem commonplace to climbers, your average person couldn't get 5 feet up a 5.12 and similarly they couldn't do a 1-arm pull-up. Or, think about it this way, while every 5.14 climber can't do a 1-arm pullup they are physiologically closer to being able to do one than your average 5.10 climber. .
- sooo not the case. i know several very very strong climbers who climb around the 5.10-11 level, who can do one arm pull ups, they're just muscley dudes. i also know quite a few 5.14 climbers who can't even dream a one arm.
i'm not talking about climbers vs. non-climbers. i'm talking about a bunch of clmbers of all levels in a room, ask them all to try a one arm pull up, you will not see an increase in success related to their redpoint level. it's about being uniquely strong, and getting the technique right.
i used to be able to do 1 one arm pull up on each arm, back when i could redpoint 5.11, i was training alot and trying to get strong. now, i can't even do half of one, but my climbing has gotten exponentially better.
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hibby11
Feb 7, 2005, 10:23 PM
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I grew up in Eagan just south of St. Paul but as of now i'm a student at the University of St. Thomas in St. Paul and am studying Engineering
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rokclimber101
Feb 7, 2005, 10:36 PM
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I would love to be proved wrong by an un-altered photo or video clip, but until I am, I just don't believe it's possible.
Please prove me wrong, it would be AWESOME to get some proof of something like that!
I would also like to say that I don't think pull-up strength has much of a correlation to one's climbing ability. I can lead 5.12, but I'm not sure I could do 15 pull-ups to save my life.
just my .02
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thurgood
Feb 7, 2005, 11:10 PM
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im sorry, but anybody who thinks there is no correlation between being able to do a lot of pullups and climbing hard is just plain dumb. now im going to state the obvious that some people who cant even do a pull up can climb better than some people who can. but the fact remains that the stronger you are, the stronger you climb. its not that hard of a concpet to grasp. when i used to have the power to do several one arms i used to climb harder than i do now. its not that hard to grasp. the more you can increase your power, the harder you can climb.
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sidepull
Feb 7, 2005, 11:56 PM
Post #41 of 45
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In reply to: i'm not talking about climbers vs. non-climbers. i'm talking about a bunch of clmbers of all levels in a room, ask them all to try a one arm pull up, you will not see an increase in success related to their redpoint level. it's about being uniquely strong, and getting the technique right. i used to be able to do 1 one arm pull up on each arm, back when i could redpoint 5.11, i was training alot and trying to get strong. now, i can't even do half of one, but my climbing has gotten exponentially better.
I still disagree. If I took 100 climbers at each level 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, etc. the higher you go, the more likely they will be able to do more pull-ups, longer lock-offs, 1-arms, etc. This doesn't mean that they'll all be able to do 1-arms, it means they are more likely.
Think about it, your argument is similar to saying that individuals who climb 5.10 are just as likely to have as much grip strength as those who climb 5.14 - no way! Although pullup strength is not as necessary, high end climbers are going to develop more individual arm strength because harder routes will necessitate longer moves the same way they tend to necessitate smaller holds.
I'm in no way arguing that doing a 1 arm is necessary to cracking through to higher grades, but there is sure to be a correlation.
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bustloose
Feb 8, 2005, 12:12 AM
Post #42 of 45
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alright, there is no way this discussion can ever come to a conclusion without some good hard facts. we can agree to disagree, no?
am i by no means saying that i'm the expert on the matter, i'm just saying i have alot of experience with a whole host of different climbers of all levels, and what i've seen does not support the theory that one arm pull ups either aid in climbing hard, or the reverse. there are one armers who climb 5.10, and one armers who climb 5.14.
the rest of your argument about lock-off strength does not go with one armers, the more you climb and the harder you climb will almost always correlate with climbing related strength ie: open hand strength, lock offs, finger strength. but there are of course expections there as well. There are a couple of Canadians who tour around and climb all over, and they have a series of tests to determine essentially how strong you are in various disciplines... (the crimp strenght of the average 5.12 climber, but the pinch strenght of the average 5.10 climber) they might be some of the few who would be most qualified to put this little baby to rest...
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caughtinside
Feb 8, 2005, 12:24 AM
Post #43 of 45
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In reply to: I would love to be proved wrong by an un-altered photo or video clip, but until I am, I just don't believe it's possible. Please prove me wrong, it would be AWESOME to get some proof of something like that! I would also like to say that I don't think pull-up strength has much of a correlation to one's climbing ability. I can lead 5.12, but I'm not sure I could do 15 pull-ups to save my life. just my .02
I'd be inclined to agree that it isn't possible, except that I've seen it on video. I think it was one of the Masters of Stone videos, can't remember which one. But sure enough, a guy did a 1 arm pullup with his pinky threaded through a sling, from a dead hang.
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bustloose
Feb 8, 2005, 3:35 PM
Post #44 of 45
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the film you're loooking for is Masters of Stone III. the 'guy' you are thinking of is Fred Nicole. the one arm is using his pinky, in a sling.
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studiggity
Feb 8, 2005, 4:12 PM
Post #45 of 45
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Registered: Jan 5, 2004
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From what I understand James Litz can do the one arm one pinky pullup as well. Not only was it mentioned in a recent Rock and Ice but I have also gotten confirmation from a friend who has seen him do it. The thing that I thought was interesting was that I was told that once James could do a one arm one finger pullup that it didn't particularly matter which finger he used because all his fingers could support his body weight. That dude is strong as hell - watching him climb barely makes any sense he makes it look so easy. Plus I don't think he warms up much. He just walks up and starts sending v10+
Stuart
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