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snod_ix


Feb 8, 2005, 1:53 PM
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Two weeks is a long time to leave draws hanging at endless wall...

Yea no Joke they'd be picked clean in no time, I'm a trad guy so if its a complete route, (all the bolts and shuts are there, chalk marks all the way up and there are draws that aren't quicklinked on one end or OBVIOUSLY fixed (think glory hole) ) They are there for the picking.


azrockclimber


Feb 8, 2005, 2:50 PM
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seriously..it's no one's fault but your own to think that somebody out there won't take your climbing gear if you leave it hanigning for two weeks or one day. I mean If I left gear I would hope and pray that it was still there but never ever, ever expect it to be there. This is actually funny to me. GUESS WHAT NOT EVERYONE FEELS THE SAME ABOUT LEAVING GEAR!!! SOME WILL TAKE IT AND SOME WON"T. In this situation it sounds like you left all of your draws on the route. Can it be accessed from the top?? if so...dumb move! if not you should have removed the first 2 draws so at least your chances are better. cause 13b leaders are not very commonplace. However, gear grabbers are. better luck next time.


bustloose


Feb 8, 2005, 3:21 PM
Post #28 of 101 (10126 views)
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do any of you meatheads even read what has been posted before you? as JT said, get a fahking clue.
when will you pathetic wankers realize that taking draws off a route is stealing?? Snod, i hope you were joking, cause if not, you need to be taken out back and taught a lesson about respect.
If land ownership/impact is an issue, then don't leave hanging draws, otherwise they should be safe, it's just part of sport climbing culture to leave your draws up on your project. If you take them, you are STEALING, i thought we were above that shit, but obviously some of you are not, and that's pathetic.


renobdarb


Feb 8, 2005, 3:34 PM
Post #29 of 101 (10126 views)
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do any of you meatheads even read what has been posted before you? as JT said, get a fahking clue.
when will you pathetic wankers realize that taking draws off a route is stealing?? Snod, i hope you were joking, cause if not, you need to be taken out back and taught a lesson about respect.
If land ownership/impact is an issue, then don't leave hanging draws, otherwise they should be safe, it's just part of sport climbing culture to leave your draws up on your project. If you take them, you are STEALING, i thought we were above that s---, but obviously some of you are not, and that's pathetic.

just because taking draws off a route is stealing, it doesn't stop people from doing it. if you really expect everyone who visits a crag to be the Golden Lamb of God, then you're the clueless, pathetic wanker. so, on that note, if you don't want your gear STOLEN, don't leave it on the route. why is that so hard to grasp?

-b


Partner angry


Feb 8, 2005, 3:41 PM
Post #30 of 101 (10126 views)
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I don't leave my stuff anywhere, but I don't steal either.

The way I'd do it (assuming I climbed more than 5 sport routes a year) would be to climb it and leave the offending draws all hanging off the second to last bolt. I'm not a thief but I am an asshole.


olderic


Feb 8, 2005, 4:20 PM
Post #31 of 101 (10126 views)
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Lots of absolutely cocksure "my way is the right way" answers given. Can anyone get the concept that there is not one correct answer for all situations? At a lot of modern steep sport walls there are certainly more or less permanent draws. But there are also a lot of cases where access has been impacted by this behavior. The right behavior can only be establised on a case by case basis. If you on at a sector in an area where the fixed are sprouting like weeds then it should be safe enough to add yours to the mix (although you should be aware that most places like that have some warm up routes that are usually left clean). On the other hand if you go planting your draws some place where all the surrounding rock is pristine - or at leastdrawless - well then what do you expect? But the really foolish thing(IMHO) is debating this on some silly electronic forum with namesless/faceless strangers. Get plugged into your local scene.


edge


Feb 8, 2005, 4:22 PM
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Olderic is, of course, the voice of reason. Listen to him.


jt512


Feb 8, 2005, 4:42 PM
Post #33 of 101 (10126 views)
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2 WEEKS is a LOOOONG time to leave draws hanging and expect no one to take them.

No, actually it's not. There are crags at which draws are left up year round.

Think land managers. Think impact. Think eyesore. Think closed crag. Think Cave Rock, Nevada.


Think Frustration Creek, New Jack City, and hundreds of other sport crags where nobody gives a shit, including the land managers. Many new sport routes are being put up with permanent chain draws, and nobody, save for a few gumbies on the internet, seems to mind.

-Jay


ikefromla


Feb 8, 2005, 4:52 PM
Post #34 of 101 (10126 views)
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2 WEEKS is a LOOOONG time to leave draws hanging and expect no one to take them.

No, actually it's not. There are crags at which draws are left up year round.

Think land managers. Think impact. Think eyesore. Think closed crag. Think Cave Rock, Nevada.


Think Frustration Creek, New Jack City, and hundreds of other sport crags where nobody gives a s---, including the land managers. Many new sport routes are being put up with permanent chain draws, and nobody, save for a few gumbies on the internet, seems to mind.

-Jay
Rifle, RRG, Charleston, [and from what i've seen] Rumney...
do not remove quickdraw that are not yours. the only exception is if you are replacing them with newer gear. period.


jcinco


Feb 8, 2005, 4:56 PM
Post #35 of 101 (10126 views)
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T1 and counting....


slobmonster


Feb 8, 2005, 6:08 PM
Post #36 of 101 (10126 views)
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... hundreds of other sport crags where nobody gives a s---, including the land managers.
Jay, it's very likely that you have spent enough time at these crags to determine that this is indeed true. I respect this, and by all means understand that at some crags, 'permanent' draws are just the way things work.

However, don't think that the land managers don't (or won't) notice. They just have other things on their plate right now. As for Rumney, you can be very, very confident that the USFS staff has their eyes on the place. And we're not just talking about draws; the Feds have every right (indeed, the charge) to keep an eye on their land, and this includes climber trails, dogs, poop in the woods, parking, bolts, overuse, raptor nesting, etc.

Once the land management agency gets the impetus to look into things, due either to a complaint of some sort, or just having noticed a change in local land use, they have to acknowledge the change in use, and look into it. In some areas this means very little (I haven't been there, but from what I read about NJC it seems a likely candidate for laissez-faire management), but in others you'll find an uppity district, or an irked ranger, or some immovable force of government that will stick its filthy fingers into your business.

Depending on the status of the land in question (wilderness?), "your" gear might, in fact, be considered abandoned. It is, literally, trash.

I'm sorry someone took your draws. But I admit to having been really peeved, a few times, that there are "fixed" draws hanging all over the damn place. At Rumney, for example, I've seen draws that are within reach from the ground. You think nobody's going to take these?

Troll? Who cares. We all like to argue regardless.

Fshizzle: I like your style.


snod_ix


Feb 8, 2005, 6:24 PM
Post #37 of 101 (10126 views)
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do any of you meatheads even read what has been posted before you? as JT said, get a fahking clue.
when will you pathetic wankers realize that taking draws off a route is stealing?? Snod, i hope you were joking, cause if not, you need to be taken out back and taught a lesson about respect.
If land ownership/impact is an issue, then don't leave hanging draws, otherwise they should be safe, it's just part of sport climbing culture to leave your draws up on your project. If you take them, you are STEALING, i thought we were above that s---, but obviously some of you are not, and that's pathetic.


So with that mindset your essentially saying that if you were walking across a parking lot, and there was a hundred dollar bill laying there, you wouldn't touch it? In the areas that i climb, unless the first ascentionist hung draws on the route, and nobody is working it, its fair game, (bail biners, quick links, nuts, cams whatever) If you walk off and leave it, its there for the taking. Maybe west coast ethic is different.....


dingus


Feb 8, 2005, 6:30 PM
Post #38 of 101 (10126 views)
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However, don't think that the land managers don't (or won't) notice. They just have other things on their plate right now. As for Rumney, you can be very, very confident that the USFS staff has their eyes on the place. And we're not just talking about draws; the Feds have every right (indeed, the charge) to keep an eye on their land, and this includes climber trails, dogs, poop in the woods, parking, bolts, overuse, raptor nesting, etc.

The feds should cater to their paying customers. The pay to play coin as two sides.

I expect fee garnering bolting permits in the near future... at a per bolt fee, for most public land in the US. I expect per trip use fees in the near future on almost all heavily used public recreation land. To a certain extent the per use fees have already happened. I also expect additional taxes on 'back country' gear as well, over and above normal sales taxes.

As a citizen sharing a public resource I was often swayed by 'community' share arguments in terms of minimizing impact. As a paying customer I am not nearly as sympathetic to the needs of other wankers who are likely getting by paying less than me.

Sorry if this materalistic surrender offends the communist sensibilities. And I don't mean communist as a perjorative.

If I rent a hotel room for a night there are certain minimum standards I expect, such as clean linen, secure locks, a telephone, etc. I spect that whether I'm staying at the Hilton or the Ahwannhee Hotel. I don't stay at hotels that don't have those things.

If I walk out into a field for free I am pretty much not expecting any standards at all and wouldn't be overly surprised if I got chased by a bull or angry farmer for my troubles.

But if I PAY to walk in a field, I pretty much spect the trail work to be done, the bulls fenced off and the farmer retired to a Santa Barbara gated community (where they can keep people like me out). And maybe I would sue if I got hurt through the failure to make that land safe. Such is the nature of pay to play, just like at Disneyland when a roller coaster eats some kid for breakfast.

When the fed makes me pay to climb on land the public already owns, I expect them to make some accomodations for my money... acceptance of hanging draws is pretty much a given. Ditto rap slings and approach trails.

The days of community minded minimalism are dead dead dead. Welcome to Madonna's world.

DMT


hugepedro


Feb 8, 2005, 6:57 PM
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The only thing lamer than snaking draws off a project is whining on the internet about your snaked draws.

---------------------------------------------

As our sport grows, the demise of local ethics is on the horizon. Land managers will become more aware of climber activity and its impact on other areas outside the scope of their managment purview. So the actions of climbers at a crag where it is ok to leave draws hanging all over the place may impact access at another crag. Mark my words, the day is coming.

As a user group we should strive to be perceived as good stewards of the land, no matter where we climb. I know of at least 1 area where the ability to convince the manager that climbers, as a group, are good stewards was key to regaining access.


redpointitorfall


Feb 8, 2005, 7:18 PM
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Hugepedro,

my intention was not to "whine on the internet" as you put it. My intentions were to find my draws, plain and simple.


redpointitorfall


Feb 8, 2005, 7:20 PM
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Hugepedro,

my intention was not to "whine on the internet" as you put it. My intentions were to find my draws, plain and simple.


bustloose


Feb 8, 2005, 7:25 PM
Post #42 of 101 (10126 views)
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So with that mindset your essentially saying that if you were walking across a parking lot, and there was a hundred dollar bill laying there, you wouldn't touch it?

thanks for actually showing me how stupid i figured you were.

let's use your example to show you what you're talking about. so you're at a bar, some dude orders a bunch of drinks and lines em up, he takes one and then turns to talk to someone next to him, YOU would wander over and poach the 'booty'

you're not coming across 'lost' gear, you're coming across someone's draws, obviously they didn't have to bail, the entire route is equipped.

remind me not to climb anywhere near any of your local crags.


snod_ix


Feb 8, 2005, 7:28 PM
Post #43 of 101 (10126 views)
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So with that mindset your essentially saying that if you were walking across a parking lot, and there was a hundred dollar bill laying there, you wouldn't touch it?

thanks for actually showing me how stupid i figured you were.

let's use your example to show you what you're talking about. so you're at a bar, some dude orders a bunch of drinks and lines em up, he takes one and then turns to talk to someone next to him, YOU would wander over and poach the 'booty'

you're not coming across 'lost' gear, you're coming across someone's draws, obviously they didn't have to bail, the entire route is equipped.

remind me not to climb anywhere near any of your local crags.

By your refrence the 'dude' at the bar is obviously 'working' the shots.....oh and don't climb at any of my local crags, but what about that hundred eh?



*EDIT* I'd like to apologize for whats afore mentioned in this post, let me rephrase my stance....if I know its a project i've seen the guy working on it or heard of it no i won't touch em, but i've i'm at my crags say 10 times in 2 weeks, never seen anybody on it and draws are there, they are there for the picking, if somebody askes about em n stuff, i'll give em back. but if the hang for a lenghy amount of time and nobodys working it, weren't put up by the first asentionist they are considered abandoned in my opinion.


bustloose


Feb 8, 2005, 8:14 PM
Post #44 of 101 (10126 views)
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By your refrence the 'dude' at the bar is obviously 'working' the shots.....oh and don't climb at any of my local crags, but what about that hundred eh?

the hundred lying in the parking lot is obviously 'lost'. much different than the hundred that is sitting on the bar, waiting for buddy to take back as change... or the hundred that is lying on the ground in the pit at hueco - that belongs to the guy with only one spare tire on his van...


hugepedro


Feb 8, 2005, 8:14 PM
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Hugepedro,

my intention was not to "whine on the internet" as you put it. My intentions were to find my draws, plain and simple.

Intention and effect often differ.

Expecting left gear to be there upon your return is not very smart. Hoping to find that gear by posting on the internet is . . . well . . .

(Just bustin yer balls man, I hope you get them back.)


jt512


Feb 8, 2005, 8:17 PM
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... hundreds of other sport crags where nobody gives a s---, including the land managers.
Jay, it's very likely that you have spent enough time at these crags to determine that this is indeed true. I respect this, and by all means understand that at some crags, 'permanent' draws are just the way things work.

However, don't think that the land managers don't (or won't) notice.

I didn't say that they don't notice that draws are left up. I said they don't care that draws are left up.

In reply to:
Depending on the status of the land in question (wilderness?), "your" gear might, in fact, be considered abandoned. It is, literally, trash.

I doubt that that is true, but I'll keep it in mind at the next wilderness sport crag I visit.

-Jay


oldskool


Feb 9, 2005, 5:36 PM
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jay,

where are these fabled "wilderness sport crags" you speaketh of? ;)


nrvna963


Feb 9, 2005, 5:50 PM
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if somebody askes about em n stuff, i'll give em back. but if the hang for a lenghy amount of time and nobodys working it, weren't put up by the first asentionist they are considered abandoned in my opinion.

No, if you took my draws and admitted to it you would find yourself swimming in the middle of the ocean the next day.


dingus


Feb 9, 2005, 5:58 PM
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jay,

where are these fabled "wilderness sport crags" you speaketh of? ;)

Oldskool, he was being sarcastic, but you knew that.

The reason I post is that I DO know of a fabled wilderness sport climbing area. But alas, I am not going to reveal its location, at least not on the internet. And no, I had no part in its creation.

But at least one genuine 'designated wilderness' sport climbing area exists in Cali and I would be willing to bet real cash there are more.

I have mixed feelings about it.

Cheers!
DMT


noell


Feb 9, 2005, 8:32 PM
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Alright, I will admit that perhaps I am too nice of a person, but hey, I think it's a good "flaw".

About that $100 example, the $ that was found in the parking lot. To demonstrate how I feel about the climbing/outdoor community, honestly, if I were to find $100 in a parking lot at the New (Summersville, or endless, or whatever, places I climb all the time), I'd probably head back to the gear shop in town and just let them know what I'd found. If anyone loses something, they typically let the store know and they keep tabs on lost-and-found activity. So if someone walked in and said they lost $100 at the cliff, the store would know to call me. Ta da!!! Owner gets $ back, probably buys me a drink for being helpful, and good karma comes my way! I'd feel better if I at least tried to find who lost it.

Now, I'd give this poor climber/outdoor enthusiast a few weeks to check up on their losses, and if I never hear anything, then I'd be buying a few new cams!

I am the same way with the gear. So be it. ;-)

So, you poor climber who's missing a set of draws: climbing at endless this weekend? We'll probably be there!

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