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ethicsmann
Feb 6, 2005, 9:04 PM
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I have been looking into going to the gunks for about a year and never got a chance to go. I plan on going this year with my friendand i have some questions about the route high e and the gunks altogether.
I have heard that you have to wait in line to get on to some of the more popular routes like high e. what time of year is the best to avoid this?
on average, how much time should be budgeted for the climb so I wont get caught in the dark?
when high e is divided into 3 pitches, which is the easier of the three?
what is the best time of year for good climbing weather? i.e. 55'F to 70'F
what are some good places to camp with decent facilities for my parents and what are the average prices for the campsites?
-sorry- I am able to lead about 5.8 but havent done long climbs. I will probably lead the second pitch and my partner will lead the first and third. (this is still in the planning stage though.)
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gblauer
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Feb 6, 2005, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: I have been looking into going to the gunks for about a year and never got a chance to go. I plan on going this year with my friendand i have some questions about the route high e and the gunks altogether. I have heard that you have to wait in line to get on to some of the more popular routes like high e. what time of year is the best to avoid this? Just about any weekend "in season" might mean a wait at the more popular climbs. That said, most climbs are at most 3 pitches, so you can get started as soon as the party ahead of you is up on the 2nd pitch. on average, how much time should be budgeted for the climb so I wont get caught in the dark? The climbs are short (1-3 pitches), each pitch is typically 100 feet. Only you can figure out how long it takes you to climb. when high e is divided into 3 pitches, which is the easier of the three? Most people do it in 2 pitches. The second pitch is the harder of the two, due to the exposure.
what is the best time of year for good climbing weather? i.e. 55'F to 70'F Any time from May on...
what are some good places to camp with decent facilities for my parents and what are the average prices for the campsites? |
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clymber
Feb 6, 2005, 9:52 PM
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first off dont get fooled by the rating of High E only being a 6..it has been know to scare of 5.10 climbers...depending on when you head up there will determine on the wait...if its midweek there might be a party ahead of you..on weekends i would say that to get on it you should start the hike in around 6 am...as for the pitches i think the frist 2 are a 3 and 4 not 100% on that i know that the last pitch is the hardest and the crux is pulling around the corner off the belay ledge...the belay ledge is big enough to hold a party on so if you do have to wait its not bad and its a great view also
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bloquer
Feb 6, 2005, 10:55 PM
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The absolute best time of year at the Gunks is the fall. Sept-Oct. Nov. can be very good as well. Spring is nice too april-May.
High E: First pitch is about 5.4+/5 and often damp in the beginning. The belay is in a corner and the second pitch is more exposed but the climbing is easier 5.3/4 These two pitches can be run together but you will need long slings to reduce rope drag. This might not be the best idea if your not used to long pitches that wander a bit or place a lot of pro. The next pitch is the deal. it is rated 5.6+ but don't be fooled it used to be rated 5.7 in the days when the ratings were really stiff. From the ledge you climb up to a balancey move under a overhang that brings you around to a vertical wall which has good holds all the way. You want to remember to goes leftish as you ascend the wall, there is some fixed pitons that follow the route (but there maybe others that are off route) Also at the move under the roof you will need a big cam (at least a #3 Camalot) extend this placment with a long runner out past the edge. There are numerous opportunities to place pro on this pitch and it should be safe but pumpy. Its a great climb enjoy!
The other mega classics in the grade are:
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Shockley's Ceiling
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edge
Feb 7, 2005, 1:53 PM
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edge moved this thread from Beginners to Regional Discussions.
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crackboy
Feb 7, 2005, 9:29 PM
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I have heard that you have to wait in line to get on to some of the more popular routes like high e. what time of year is the best to avoid this?
the best time of the year to not find a line on high E is Winter. any other time you will find a line no matter when you show up. unless its dark out. then you might only find one other party.
n average, how much time should be budgeted for the climb so I wont get caught in the dark?
depends on how fast you clib and how many parties...
when high e is divided into 3 pitches, which is the easier of the three?
its only 2 pitches..divide it into three and you are going to piss off a lot of people...the first pitch is the easiest...
what are some good places to camp with decent facilities for my parents and what are the average prices for the campsites?
gunk's camping is pretty bad...you can try the gristmill or the New Paltz hostel..otherwise nothing close is going to be acceptable to your parents
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crackboy
Feb 7, 2005, 9:43 PM
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I have heard that you have to wait in line to get on to some of the more popular routes like high e. what time of year is the best to avoid this?
the best time of the year to not find a line on high E is Winter. any other time you will find a line no matter when you show up. unless its dark out. then you might only find one other party.
n average, how much time should be budgeted for the climb so I wont get caught in the dark?
depends on how fast you clib and how many parties...
when high e is divided into 3 pitches, which is the easier of the three?
its only 2 pitches..divide it into three and you are going to piss off a lot of people...the first pitch is the easiest...
what are some good places to camp with decent facilities for my parents and what are the average prices for the campsites?
gunk's camping is pretty bad...you can try the gristmill or the New Paltz hostel..otherwise nothing close is going to be acceptable to your parents
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gunkjunkie
Feb 7, 2005, 10:10 PM
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The fall is the best time to visit the Gunks. To avoid the worst lines climb during the week - hike or bike during the weekend.
I am not sure of your climbing level - your bio doesn't say - so if you can lead trad 5.12-5.13 you can probably ignore everything below. :lol:
High E is a worthwhile climb - but if you are leading at your trad limit - I would suggest working up to it. I have included a list of good climbs at/or below that level that will allow you to get used to Gunks climbing. The first pitch of High E is very easy, the 2nd pitch is a little intimidating and you will need at least one large peice at least blue camalot) to protect the moves off of the ledge. You will have to extend the peice to ensure that your rope will clear the lip. There are ample opportunities for pro so running it out is not an issue.
Some Good Climbs up to 5.6 +
Yib Yum Yab Yum 5.3
Beginners Delight 5.3
Betty 5.3
Gelsa 5.4
Sixish 5.4
Jackie 5.5
Frogs Head 5.5
Horseman 5.5
Maria 5.6+
Shockleys Ceiling 5.6
Madame G's - to me this climb was a little intimidating also. A little overhanging and with a hanging belay. 5.6+
Deirdre
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billydude
Feb 7, 2005, 10:12 PM
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High E is a great climb to do but there are other uber climbs to do that are in the same difficulty range. Limelight is a sweet climb and should be tried by anyone that hasnt climbed a real flake. Also, Frogshead is a blast, easy two pitch climb with a nice long single rap. High E is good, but i wouuldnt waste a day of climbing sitting in line for it :wink:
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caughtinside
Feb 7, 2005, 11:12 PM
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Just curious, do these mysterious grades of 5.4+ and 5.6+ exist outside the gunks? :lol:
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curt
Feb 7, 2005, 11:54 PM
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Sure, there are other great routes in the Gunks, but High Exposure is the quintessential climb for the area--for any rating. It is particularly nice with the Directissima start, IMO.
Curt
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nedsurf
Feb 8, 2005, 1:13 AM
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I swung lead Hi E (first pitch for me) and we got to the base in the morning dark but were still beat. A pair had started doing the first pitch with headlamps and this was on a weekday. More hardcore than I. So we waited for about 40 min. then started at sunrise. I think there were already four teams behind us when my partner cleaned P1. So do it once, than go find all the other spectacular climbs there. Don't do the hostel the first night with your parents the first night, that can be the next evening retreat. Give them the whole gunks experience with camp slime you know, rocky ground, strange misanthropic climber types, no "boy scout" fires. On second thought, give them cots and some wine so they don't disown you.
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fjclimbsrocks
Feb 8, 2005, 3:36 AM
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Hey man,
I don't know what your parents financial situation is, but if they're not the hostel type and don't mend spending some cash, there's always the mohonk mountain house. It's quite a step up from a hostel, being a 4 or 5 star hotel, and it's only 10 minute drive from the near trapps/ trapps. Or, if you want to get your tresspass on, you can climb illegally at skytop, which is a 10 minute hike from the hotel itself. Just borrow a guide book from a gunkie friend who climbed there before it was closed. Oh, and as for High E...get there early or get there late, it's worth it. Also, keep in mind, if you get there and there's a wait, just move on. There's plenty more to climb, and it will always be there waiting. Any more questions, PM me, the gunks are pretty much my home crag.
Jared
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curt
Feb 8, 2005, 3:55 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: if they're not the hostel type and don't mend spending some cash, there's always the mohonk mountain house Ok, if you do stay at the mountain house, be sure to remind them constantly of how wonderfull it would be to allow climbers to climb at skytop. Its the guests interest and approval, along with sorted out liabilty issues that could eventually lead to its reopening, but i dont wanna get my hopes up. o well, what a shame.
That's never going to happen.
Curt
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alliwanttodoisclimb
Feb 8, 2005, 5:12 PM
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Just a quick note re grading in the Gunks..
You mentioned that you can lead 5.8, be careful, it sounds like you can lead VS maybe HVS in England...the grading in the Gunks is notoriously under-graded, they say if you can do a 5.8 in the Gunks you can do a 5.10 anywhere else.
When I was in the Gunks I was starting to lead HVS in Ireland, I led the first pitch of H/Exposure no problem, the Second pitch is sccccccccaaaaarrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyy!!! as hell!!!!
When you leave the roof you're aiming for a few pegs high to the left..I lead E2 in Ireland now and if I was to lead that pitch tomorrow I'd still have difficulty.
Don't let that put you off though!!!! Its an amazing route
Enjoy
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azrockclimber
Feb 8, 2005, 5:32 PM
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yeah...the easier the grade at the gunks the more majorly sandbagged it is....so be careful and start in slow. around .10's it gets less sandbagged but I was on a 5.6 a few months ago and there was a move on there that felt like 5.8 easily. New leaders beware. and don't be in a rush. even the "easy" climbs are totally fun. Thats why the gunks is great.
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fjclimbsrocks
Feb 10, 2005, 2:25 AM
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Sorry to those who didn't catch my sarcasm. Perhaps it didnt come through in my typing. I just noticed the reaction my post got now (several days later), and was shocked to think that people thought I was actually advocating that the guy actually try and climb at skytop. Either way, let the reccord stand that I have never climbed at skytop, that I would never recomend that anybody ever climb at skytop (unless, for some miracle, it is re-opened to climbing) and that I understand how dammaging climbing there would be to access efforts. Thanks to those who told me to stfu, if it wasn't for your responses, my post might have continued to be misinterpreted.
Jared
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curt
Feb 10, 2005, 2:43 AM
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In reply to: fjc-stfu, curt say it ain't so! :cry: if you need gunks info: http://gunks.com
Well, I wish it were not so, but I have had some fairly extensive discussions on this topic with Rich Goldstone, Russ Clune and others--and I don't see how Skytop will ever be reopened to climbing.
However, being a Lifetime member of the Mohonk Preserve, I certainly hope that I am wrong and that I may again climb at Skytop one day.
Curt
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fishbelly
Feb 10, 2005, 2:50 AM
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Thee Pines!! in the rain , snow , cold, good line , good pro.great climb.
Not as comitting as Hi. E.
Any climb by Fritz. W. I am not sure he ever picked a bad line.
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gunked
Feb 10, 2005, 3:49 AM
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Having worked at the Mountain House and having had discussions with the General Manager and Mrs. Smiley, I can say that there is little to no chance of getting back access to Skytop.
I hate to say this, but I truly believe it. I've heard differing opinions on why this is the case which leads me to believe that they don't really want me to know the actual reason.
Much as I hate to say it (and I'm pissed that we don't have access), we should all be thankful that the Smiley Family offered up the land (Bonticou, Trapps, Nears) to the Preserve in the first place and allowed people to climb at Skytop for as long as they did.
I will say that I don't believe, for a second, that liability has anything to do with the closure of Skytop. They closed it after a hiker fell off of the cliff, NOT a climber. My friends were there the day of the incident. I believe they were looking for an excuse to close the cliff to climbing.
Considering how many climbers acted against their wishes while climbing there (radios, screaming obscenities, shirts off, using the Crevice as a descent route, climbing on days and in areas that they asked climbers not to, etc...) I am not at all surprised that this happened. They tend to have a wealthy, stuffy, I-want-it-my-way type of guest and there were complaints!
I've spoken to the GM about the Mountain House's lack activities for teens and offered up climbing on one of America's best cliffs as a possibility, but was shut down abruptly!
Lost cause all :cry:
-Jason :(
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cracklover
Feb 10, 2005, 4:26 AM
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After you've done High E, if you're thinking "that was nice, I enjoyed the pucker factor, and the grade felt comfortable..."
... try Moonlight. It's everything High E is cracked up to be. :wink:
Same difficulty rating, decent gear, *more* exposure. :shock:
GO
P.S. Of course if you're scared witless on High E, don't go anywhere near Moonlight.
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