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dirtineye
Feb 10, 2005, 5:10 AM
Post #26 of 95
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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In reply to: let me think... full set of wild contry hexes, should have bought a cam metolius web-o-lette, complete waste of money camelbak trans alp, wish I would have bought a good pack to carry all my gear to start out with
I'l take those wild country hexes off your hands.
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barefooter
Feb 10, 2005, 5:11 AM
Post #27 of 95
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Registered: Dec 7, 2003
Posts: 74
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In reply to: In reply to: let me think... full set of wild contry hexes, should have bought a cam metolius web-o-lette, complete waste of money camelbak trans alp, wish I would have bought a good pack to carry all my gear to start out with Barefoot, I don't know man, hexes are pretty under-rated, once you learn to place 'em they're pretty awesome, esp for alpining (atleasts thats what i hear) but they are cheap and workbetter then cams sometimes, plus you don't feel as sad if you have to leave a piece to retreat, 12 bucks vs 52 is a little less painful.
Well I'd personally rather carry a couple large cowbells, I find they have a better ring to em. j/k I'd get better use out of one more cam than that whole set. The only time that I use them is when I ocasionally set up top rope anchors and I force my self to use them just to feel a little better about the money spent.
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nedsurf
Feb 10, 2005, 5:23 AM
Post #28 of 95
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Registered: Nov 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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petzl tibloc. It just sits there with it's stupid spikes on my harness or alpine pack waiting for that emergency. I always use my prussiks instead.
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davidji
Feb 10, 2005, 5:49 AM
Post #29 of 95
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
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In reply to: splitter gear 2 cams,
I bought one (Red, #2?) when they were fairly new. The first time I carried it was on my hardest lead to date at the time, and part of the pitch had sparse pro. That thing fit into a little pocket that I don't think could have been protected by anything else I own. Certainly not anything else on my rack at the time. Anyway from part of the climb it would have been a key part of keeping me off the ground if I had fallen.
I've only carried at free climbing a few times since, and not for a long time. But then I was really glad I had it, so I can't regret buying it.
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slobmonster
Feb 10, 2005, 6:01 AM
Post #30 of 95
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
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I hardly ever use my Lowe Bigbird, Hummingbird, and Footfangs anymore.
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jookyhead
Feb 10, 2005, 6:26 AM
Post #31 of 95
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Registered: Jun 2, 2003
Posts: 667
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In reply to: In reply to: The Piece of gear i bought that i dont like (although i still use it) is a petzle auto locking bener with a stupid little green button you need to push to unlock it. i used this for my daisy chain for a while until i came off a climb trying to unclip the stupid thing from my harness. i was ten feet abouve a blue alien. the alien held but thats a scary piece to fall from ten feet abouve. i clip my daisy behind my back so for now i will stick with the auto lockers you just twist. P.S. hay spikeyhair, hold on to that reverso its a really usefull tool if you know how to use it I've got a couple of those biners, and love them. Once you spend a minut or two to get it down, I can open them one handed quicker then I can open a screw gate. I guess it's all a matter of personal preference.
Really, if you give it some time you'll get used to the ball-thing. I had to get comfortable using them for a job hooking kids up to a climbing wall and I eventually got to the point where I could practically open it as fast a non-locking biner.
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phatcat
Feb 10, 2005, 6:33 AM
Post #32 of 95
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Registered: Aug 30, 2004
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In reply to: petzl tibloc. It just sits there with it's stupid spikes on my harness or alpine pack waiting for that emergency. I always use my prussiks instead.
another vote for a useless tibloc. my shunt is also pretty useless, both of these thngs do the same thing as $1 worth of cord or webbing, and for the price of those i could of had 3 more draws.
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ozarkclimber
Feb 10, 2005, 6:47 AM
Post #33 of 95
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Registered: May 3, 2003
Posts: 60
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my harness... it's been a downward spiral ever since.
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toejam
Feb 10, 2005, 7:19 AM
Post #34 of 95
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 358
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A figure 8. I bought nearly my whole rack at a deep discount before I had much idea what I was doing. Got it mostly right except for the 8. I've never so much as touched it to a rope.
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jemco
Feb 10, 2005, 7:50 AM
Post #35 of 95
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Registered: Jan 17, 2005
Posts: 77
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My worst purchase was the set of nuts I got that have gear like ridges on the back (in order to better stack, back to back)-- I believe they are called Coco-nuts, maybe by Blue Water. You won't find them out there anymore because I was the only person to buy them. On the good side, I was working in a shop then and got the whole set (1-12) for only 60 bucks. I sometimes use them as regular nuts, but that stacking thing never panned out, even in the gunks where I love to put pieces in opposition. UGH!! :oops:
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lucas_timmer
Feb 10, 2005, 8:07 AM
Post #36 of 95
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Registered: Dec 28, 2004
Posts: 562
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A camp pro nut, I bought it for € 10,- could get a Wallnut...
3 Non-load biners, I thought I could use 'm for hanging my gear on.. They were as expensive as normal biners...
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coldclimb
Feb 10, 2005, 9:21 AM
Post #37 of 95
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
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Black Diamond wired hexes. Sure I know how to use them, but where I climb nuts are far more useful and I have cams that will fit the placements for my hexes. I placed them a couple times, but now they stay at home.
Also my tibloc ascender. A runner works as well, and doesn't have that breathtaking slippage/rippage factor.
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perozee
Feb 10, 2005, 9:30 AM
Post #38 of 95
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
Posts: 268
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Figure 8 as well.
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norushnomore
Feb 10, 2005, 9:45 AM
Post #39 of 95
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
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4 revolver biners, one stopped spinning right after the first fall another one after being used as a redirect on a topropes setup.
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tammarak
Feb 10, 2005, 1:37 PM
Post #40 of 95
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Registered: Nov 29, 2003
Posts: 51
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To those who mentioned the tri bloc as being worthless, I can't help but think of the movie Touching the Void. Joe Simpson hanging over the edge trying to wrap a prussic with numb fingers. Remember him dropping the prussic and succoming to the Void? I wonder what would have happened if he'd thrown on a couple tri bloc's?
The down side is their way too much, but certainly not a waste. Emergency's call for quick applications, nothing bits a rope faster than these light little life savers.
As far a useless gear I'd have to say the 10 bargin "Lucky" draws I bought. Sloppy and oxidised, I never trust them anymore. Buyer beware: you get what you pay for!
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crag
Feb 10, 2005, 1:45 PM
Post #41 of 95
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
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In reply to: What’s the one piece of climbing gear that you wish you never bought ?
Didn't think that was possible.
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fallingup
Feb 10, 2005, 2:12 PM
Post #42 of 95
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Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 43
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I wish I could at least buy gear. Being fund-less keeps me from making spur of the moment purchaces and limits me to buying stull I'll accually use. :?
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edge
Feb 10, 2005, 2:28 PM
Post #43 of 95
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
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In reply to: In reply to: The one piece i have that i never ever use now would have to be my reverso. once i used my friends atc xp, there was no going back. the rope just moves more freely in the xp. :P Apparently you don't do multipitch?
I do/have done multipitch. I find the Reverso to be more weight than it's worth.
I climbed Half Dome and El Cap with a figure eight as my belay/rap device; now I use either the XP, an ATC, or a Munter hitch. I have had many partners bring out the Reverso, and I will climb on it because it is safe, but I personally will not commit to a one trick pony.
You may say it can do more than that, and I will agree. However, I think many people who learn one device, and only one device, limit themselves and become a liability on routes where improv can save a life or even expedite a retreat.
It's a complex sport, do not limit yourself by viewing it through rose colored glasses.
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markc
Feb 10, 2005, 2:39 PM
Post #44 of 95
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
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One more vote for the figure 8. It's years old with hardly a scratch. I'd give the thing away if I could actually find it.
I also have a tibloc I've never used, but I won't complain about unused "emergency" equipment. Besides, it's light, small, and fairly inexpensive. I've never broken too deep in the first aid kit, either. That doesn't mean it's a bad purchase.
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microbarn
Feb 10, 2005, 2:41 PM
Post #45 of 95
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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Figure 8
:lol: ....and my helmet :lol:
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tradclimbinfool
Feb 10, 2005, 2:43 PM
Post #46 of 95
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Registered: Jun 12, 2003
Posts: 89
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This is a great thread for me and my wife--we always seem to buy crappy stuff before we figure out what we like!
I must say I've been most unhappy with my Metolious Half Dome haul bag. At first it seemed great and well designed with lots of well thought out features, but after hiking of off Angel's Landing with it, my thoughts changed. Now I know that a haul bag isn't designed to be the most comfortable ride, but the way the shoulder straps converge at the center of this pack made me feel like I'd visited a quack chiropractor!
Also, bigwall related, I bought some cheap HB cams ($29 each!) to fill out my rack before climbing Prodigal Sun. Let's just say, I got what I paid for! While I do use them occasionally for aid climbing, there just too poorly designed and awkward for my sausage fingers to operate. Always feel like I'm going to drop the damn things when I place them one handed while free climbing.
And finally, I'm pleased to see that I'm not the only one that has been unimpressed with the reverso. (Usually, I'm afraid to mention this dislike for fear of being stoned by the Reverso Lovers.) Yes, yes, I know how it is intended to be used and that it's great for belaying off an anchor and all that jazz, but after making a 200 foot rappel with one I was shocked to find a large pile of fuzz that it had sheared off the sheath of my rope!!! (No, the rope was not old and fuzzy at the time.) This was alarming--while I really wanted to love the Reverso, this just really turned me off and I haven't used it again.
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superdiamonddave
Feb 10, 2005, 3:46 PM
Post #47 of 95
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 443
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In reply to: Definately my small hex's. There is nothing more useful and lighter than a large hex but unless the cracks are quite right small hexes seem kinda useless.
Agreed. I do not use my small wired hexes. I find that my WC rocks work much better for my needs. However, I do like the medium and large sized slung hexes.
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j_ung
Feb 10, 2005, 3:47 PM
Post #48 of 95
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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quas, check your PMs. :D
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tradklime
Feb 10, 2005, 5:52 PM
Post #49 of 95
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235
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Camalots
Hexes
Agree on the reverso, the thing works fine of 10.5 or 11 ml ropes, but who uses those anymore...
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gblauer
Moderator
Feb 10, 2005, 6:11 PM
Post #50 of 95
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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The first piece...it lead to this crazy addiction called ROCK CLIMBING!
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