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Possible end to climbing????
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healyje


Feb 10, 2005, 7:22 AM
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Yeah, but what climber is going to think they are too "weak" to do a plank position?

Hopefully anyone cut to the bone several time...

I suspect our friend here is smart enough to take it easy this time through.


all_that_is_rock


Feb 10, 2005, 10:42 AM
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i feel your pain buddy!!!!! i am a rock climber of 5 years now and a snow boarder of close to 10 years. when i was 14 i spent my birthday in the hospital with a shattered pelvis. i snowboarded on a compitition level from the time i was 10 untill that fatefull day i fell. i had a full sponcership from a snowboard company (sims) and road in every compitition i could find, taking home big prize money. warming up for a compitition i hit an ice chunk on the lip of a jump and fell 50 feet directly onto my rear side, instanly shatering my pelvis into three pieces. I went through 6 hours of reconstructive surgery and now have a plate and four pins in my ass. the docter who did my surgery told me i would walk with a limp for the rest of my life, and definantly no snowboarding, and seriously reduced mobility. that was five years ago and now i am back snowboarding and climbing. i lead 5.11 and ice climb grade 5 or so. Doctors can only garente their work, but not your tenacity. stick to it bro and be strong. it's amazing what the body can acomplish if the mind tells it to. feel free to PM me for support or just to talk because i know how scary this kind of thing can be.... much love and the best of luck, charlie


rck_climber


Feb 10, 2005, 4:31 PM
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Re: Possible end to climbing???? [In reply to]
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Mick -- dude, that looks like hell.

Great, then it looks just about how it feels :D. Actually, the pain is becoming less and less each day - although the frustration of not using my right hand is more and more each day :roll:.

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Who was the butcher? The VA in Dayton?

No, I had it done at the Cleveland VA hospital by a senior resident - for whatever that's worth. At least he got to practice on a veteran before going out into the world - wouldn't want to make a mistake on a "real" patient. :?

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I wish you the best for a full and speedy recovery, bro. If you can make it living a few years in the Dayton area without losing your mind, you can do just about anything. :wink:

Ed


Thanks Ed, I just can't wait to head back down to the Red again, but all in due time :).

Mick


rck_climber


Feb 10, 2005, 4:38 PM
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Ike, Charlie, Joe, and of course Kevin,

Thanks so much for sharing those stories, they're very inspirational. Definitely helps to keep this scrape in perspective.

Mick


aimeerose


Feb 10, 2005, 9:34 PM
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Yeah, but what climber is going to think they are too "weak" to do a plank position?

Hopefully anyone cut to the bone several time...

I suspect our friend here is smart enough to take it easy this time through.

I'm not worried about him and the few climbers who have surgery. I'm more worried about those who haven't who are doing crazy things like dips and bench press when they have biceps tendonitis or instability. These people are going to do yoga without any idea of what can damage them and what won't. Yoga is not the panacea for climbing injuries.


healyje


Feb 10, 2005, 11:15 PM
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Aimee,

I think we both mean well here, I've been dealing with climbing injuries for a long, long time and have been around a lot of other old climbers also dealing with them and to some extent Astanga yoga practiced religiously has actually been a panecea. Particularly when I myself and others I know went through endless rehab, accupuncture, massage, chiro, etc. - Astanga was the only one of the bunch that delivered...

Is it for every and all injuries - of course not, but again, anyone interested in it should get Beryl Bender Birch's book as she has been rehabing runners and other athletes for a very long time and discusses many of these specific rehab issues. This like any other therapy/training regimine a dose of common sense should accompany all of them...

Joseph

Joseph


aimeerose


Feb 11, 2005, 12:39 AM
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Yes, I imagine we do both mean well. However, I am a physical therapist and I have much more schooling than accupunturists, massage therepists and chiropractors. I have also been dealing with climbing injuries and am currently doing research on climbers and why they have so many shoulder injuries. Yoga can be very dangerous for people with acute and chronic shoulder injuries. I have seen it do more harm than good to both my husband and I. I enjoy it for it's relaxation purposes and can see where some of the upper extremity weight bearing postures could be good for shoulder stabilization, but many of them place the shoulder in a risky position. I just believe in good evidence based (that means research) advice, vs antecdotal advice.


healyje


Feb 11, 2005, 2:23 AM
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Aimee, I'm sure you're a good p.t. and I have nothing but respect for the work you and the ones I've seen (top PDX sport p.t.s - and we have a few) I'm sure all would make the same claims. Also, I have science background as well and do operate on evidence basis; it's just that in my case and in several others I know the evidence (i.e. long term results) favor Astanga over all the other therapies tried relative to returning to a sustainable peak climbing condition. In particular in my case yoga has been way more effective at dealing with the instability and rotator cuff in both short and long term than any other therapy.

Again, I still say that from this to chemo to any other comeback state my recommendation would be to take personal ownership and responisbility for your recovery, use a ton of skepticism and common sense, and figure out what is going to work for you. I'm simply telling him/you what has worked for me over a number of years.


luke


Feb 11, 2005, 3:12 AM
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Just to add to aimeerose's remarks. I had a shoulder/biceps tendon injury which ended up needing surgical repair. My surgeon (and some other ortho's I consulted) said to lay off the Yoga for a while, especially plank and downward dog as it puts too much strain on the injury.


Their take was that doing yoga when healthy could help keep you that way, but many yoga poses could do a lot of harm in the case of shoulder injuries. You should make sure you consult with someone about your own case before you do yoga with an injury, or you might increase your healing time or even worsen the damage.


For what its worth, my surgeon trained with a guy who developed a lot of the techniques for shoulder repairs on major league baseball pitchers. I figure that those guys can afford people who know what they are talking about, so I have better than average reasons to trust his opinion.


healyje


Feb 11, 2005, 10:17 PM
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Just to add to aimeerose's remarks. I had a shoulder/biceps tendon injury which ended up needing surgical repair. My surgeon (and some other ortho's I consulted) said to lay off the Yoga for a while, especially plank and downward dog as it puts too much strain on the injury.


Their take was that doing yoga when healthy could help keep you that way, but many yoga poses could do a lot of harm in the case of shoulder injuries. You should make sure you consult with someone about your own case before you do yoga with an injury, or you might increase your healing time or even worsen the damage.


For what its worth, my surgeon trained with a guy who developed a lot of the techniques for shoulder repairs on major league baseball pitchers. I figure that those guys can afford people who know what they are talking about, so I have better than average reasons to trust his opinion.


Yet again, the recommendation is accompanied by an assumption of common sense and the original post Aimee replied to had the empahtic and explicit "I know it will be a while..." in it, as in "lay off for awhile" or as in do the post-op, do the recommended p.t., get stronger, and when you're back to a reasonable level of functionality start the Astanga. And again, both plank and downward dog have alternative introductory forms for people new to it or recovering from an injury. I am in no way suggesting jumping into Astanga the day he gets his brace off, but once he is on the road back.

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