I hate the fact that the nose of the biner is too big to use with a grigri and many of the petzl items. Also screwgates are always better (and cheaper), they dont clog with dirt and stuff and are faster if you have to clip multiple things to the carabiner instead of doing the quicklock sequence every time you have to open the gate. For me the best belay biner is the petzl william, monster gate opening, simple and reliable.

Omega Pac's classic Jake HMS biner is a staple found on most climbers belay loops. This is because of:
-- its unique pear shape design that ensures it is always loaded correctly - wide radius stock feeds super smooth - some may say it is a huge biner but its light and it just hangs on your belay loop anyway - I dont see this as an issue.
-- its unique side swing gate that offers that largest gate opening found on any HMS biner - never have issues clipping anything
-- its one of the strongest HMS biners out with incredible force ratings, while maintaining a light weight - can handle the biggest of whippers

That said. Omega Pacific has finally outfitted the best belay 'biner with a key-lock style gate to keep from catching.

I don't give 5's unless it is truly the worlds best most outstanding piece of gear that no one should live without......The Omega Pacific Jake HMS Keylock Quiklok gets 5 stars.

Great biner for belay or rap and as far as the rope opening it I highly doubt rope rubbing the back of the gate could open this biner. But I could be wrong. The only downfall it's a bit big but they do make a Jake JR.

desent locking biner, don't have to wory about locking it
but if you get dirt in it it tends to stick open and tuff to get back
minor note it has a funky shape to it so it can be hard to get a grigri set up right

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