Gear : Reviews
Reviews for Revelation 9.2 mm Rope
Average Rating : 4.38 out of 5
Item Details | Reviews
Review
Review by: jdouble, 2005-07-25
Really nice rope, the small diameter makes clipping very smooth. I have used the Revelation in both sport and alpine applications and it has held up surprisingly well, over a year now and it still looks/feels good.
Review
Review by: dirtbag101, 2005-07-25
Great Light and strong rope! Nice and small yet never kinks like other small diameter ropes.
Review
Review by: rockprodigy, 2005-07-13
[b]Full Disclosure: The company that manufactured this equipment provided it free of charge to RC.com and RC.com then provided it as compensation to the reviewer for his or her review. This company does not currently advertise on RC.com.[/b]
So you find yourself hanging at the end of your rope, once again. After falling from the last move for the 47th time, you’re close to sending your “proj”, but just can’t get over the hump. You’ve tried the latest fad diet, you’ve had your sweat glands surgically removed, and you even tried plucking the fillings out of your teeth, but you just can’t seem to find the edge you need. Well don’t despair, I have just the thing; the new Mammut Revelation.
[img]http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos//576/57639.jpg[/img]
[i]Mammut's 9.2mm Revelation, showing the middle design transition.[/i]
The Revelation is the newest offering in Mammut’s long line of excellent, high performance ropes. The Revelation is intended for extreme situations, where every gram counts, and the climber is willing to sacrifice durability to maximize performance. This rope is ideal for sport climbers seeking to test themselves on long routes where rope weight can be a significant factor. On the other end of the spectrum, the Revelation is also well suited for alpine climbing. In the past, where alpinists commonly led on only one “double” rope, as a means to save weight, now you have the option of using a certified single rope for about the same weight.
If you’re a shrewd consumer, you know that you don’t get “something for nothing”. Sure, the rope is light, but it must be much weaker, right? Not necessarily. Mammut’s exclusive “Coating Finish” process allows their ropes to produce much higher strength for their given diameter than the ropes of other manufacturers. Each individual strand of every Mammut rope is coated with Teflon. This reduces friction between individual fibers when the rope is loaded. Therefore, during a fall, more of the fibers of the rope are able to contribute to resisting the falling climber. In non-coated ropes, friction between rope strands will allow some fibers to carry more load than others during a fall. This leads to premature wear and tear and generally a weaker rope for the same diameter.
The advantage of the Coating Finish is apparent when comparing it to similar ropes such as Beal’s 9.1mm “Joker”. The Revelation is about 4% heavier than the Joker, yet it’s “first fall elongation” is 22% less, and it has a slight edge in the UIAA falls category with a rating of 5-6 versus, the Joker’s 5 rated falls. The reduced elongation could be a significant factor. For example, if you are 35 feet up and 10 feet above your last bolt, a fall on the “Joker” (37% elongation) will have your toes kissing the ground! Greater elongation also increases wear on your protection as the rope slides further through your quickdraws during a fall. Impact Force is another area of concern for climbers, however, Mammut claims that given a dynamic belay, impact force is barely discernable between two different ropes, so as long as you are using a dynamic belay, this should not be a discriminating factor.
Like all Mammut ropes, the Revelation handled like a dream. The “Duoddess” or “bi-color” weave makes it easy to identify the middle, and the “Triosafe” marking, which identifies the last 5 meters of the rope, added a bit of confidence. By far the biggest drawback, which goes for any skinny rope is that it is less likely to lock up in a mechanical belay device such as a “gri-gri”. Considering all the stories I’ve been hearing lately about decking sport climbers and their skinny ropes, this is a major concern. Mammut sells a special belay device specifically designed for skinny ropes (Matrix, $22.95), which you may want to consider. I found the Trango “Cinch” worked well with the Revelation. Its design is much better suited to smaller ropes, it was very reliable in locking down on the Revelation, and it was easy to lower and dish out slack. If you are at all nervous about skinny ropes slipping through your gri-gri, then this rope is not for you!
The model I tested (60m, duoddess superdry) retails for $239, which is comparable to similar models. In addition to the UIAA test standards, Mammut is an ISO 9001 company. This means that the company has a system in place to ensure that products are manufactured uniformly, decreasing the chance of a manufacturing glitch making it into the rope you buy at your local shop.
Mammut continues to lead the way in rope technology with their latest breakthrough; the Revelation. This rope is perfect for the sport climber pursuing their absolute limit, or the alpinist looking to trim a few grams here or there. If you decide to go with the Revelation (or any other rope under 9.7mm) special care should be taken in selecting a belay device. As always, make sure you and your belayer are well practiced in the necessary belay techniques. This rope is destined to become the first choice of elite climbers on their hardest sends, and I’m sure we’ll yet again see how improved technology can enable better climbing.
So you find yourself hanging at the end of your rope, once again. After falling from the last move for the 47th time, you’re close to sending your “proj”, but just can’t get over the hump. You’ve tried the latest fad diet, you’ve had your sweat glands surgically removed, and you even tried plucking the fillings out of your teeth, but you just can’t seem to find the edge you need. Well don’t despair, I have just the thing; the new Mammut Revelation.
[img]http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos//576/57639.jpg[/img]
[i]Mammut's 9.2mm Revelation, showing the middle design transition.[/i]
The Revelation is the newest offering in Mammut’s long line of excellent, high performance ropes. The Revelation is intended for extreme situations, where every gram counts, and the climber is willing to sacrifice durability to maximize performance. This rope is ideal for sport climbers seeking to test themselves on long routes where rope weight can be a significant factor. On the other end of the spectrum, the Revelation is also well suited for alpine climbing. In the past, where alpinists commonly led on only one “double” rope, as a means to save weight, now you have the option of using a certified single rope for about the same weight.
If you’re a shrewd consumer, you know that you don’t get “something for nothing”. Sure, the rope is light, but it must be much weaker, right? Not necessarily. Mammut’s exclusive “Coating Finish” process allows their ropes to produce much higher strength for their given diameter than the ropes of other manufacturers. Each individual strand of every Mammut rope is coated with Teflon. This reduces friction between individual fibers when the rope is loaded. Therefore, during a fall, more of the fibers of the rope are able to contribute to resisting the falling climber. In non-coated ropes, friction between rope strands will allow some fibers to carry more load than others during a fall. This leads to premature wear and tear and generally a weaker rope for the same diameter.
The advantage of the Coating Finish is apparent when comparing it to similar ropes such as Beal’s 9.1mm “Joker”. The Revelation is about 4% heavier than the Joker, yet it’s “first fall elongation” is 22% less, and it has a slight edge in the UIAA falls category with a rating of 5-6 versus, the Joker’s 5 rated falls. The reduced elongation could be a significant factor. For example, if you are 35 feet up and 10 feet above your last bolt, a fall on the “Joker” (37% elongation) will have your toes kissing the ground! Greater elongation also increases wear on your protection as the rope slides further through your quickdraws during a fall. Impact Force is another area of concern for climbers, however, Mammut claims that given a dynamic belay, impact force is barely discernable between two different ropes, so as long as you are using a dynamic belay, this should not be a discriminating factor.
Like all Mammut ropes, the Revelation handled like a dream. The “Duoddess” or “bi-color” weave makes it easy to identify the middle, and the “Triosafe” marking, which identifies the last 5 meters of the rope, added a bit of confidence. By far the biggest drawback, which goes for any skinny rope is that it is less likely to lock up in a mechanical belay device such as a “gri-gri”. Considering all the stories I’ve been hearing lately about decking sport climbers and their skinny ropes, this is a major concern. Mammut sells a special belay device specifically designed for skinny ropes (Matrix, $22.95), which you may want to consider. I found the Trango “Cinch” worked well with the Revelation. Its design is much better suited to smaller ropes, it was very reliable in locking down on the Revelation, and it was easy to lower and dish out slack. If you are at all nervous about skinny ropes slipping through your gri-gri, then this rope is not for you!
The model I tested (60m, duoddess superdry) retails for $239, which is comparable to similar models. In addition to the UIAA test standards, Mammut is an ISO 9001 company. This means that the company has a system in place to ensure that products are manufactured uniformly, decreasing the chance of a manufacturing glitch making it into the rope you buy at your local shop.
Mammut continues to lead the way in rope technology with their latest breakthrough; the Revelation. This rope is perfect for the sport climber pursuing their absolute limit, or the alpinist looking to trim a few grams here or there. If you decide to go with the Revelation (or any other rope under 9.7mm) special care should be taken in selecting a belay device. As always, make sure you and your belayer are well practiced in the necessary belay techniques. This rope is destined to become the first choice of elite climbers on their hardest sends, and I’m sure we’ll yet again see how improved technology can enable better climbing.
