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Reviews for Zealot Average Rating = 3.21/5 Average Rating : 3.21 out of 5

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Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: ratmnerd, 2006-10-15


These were my second choice pair of shoe, as my first choice (Boreal Zen) was out of stock in my size and no more would be coming in.

For the type of climbing i'm now doing after relocating, they're fairly good. I sized mine pretty small, and the power they allow me to put on small basalt edges is impressive, created through the aggressive shape (slightly downturned toe). However, for where i planned to use them before relocating, they're not so good. I find the Gryptonite rubber pretty poor for smearing on the limestone slabs at castle hill, as it likes to slide, leaving a black streak on the rock. This may be partly due to the sizing, as i bought mine a half size too small, so there's less flex than there should be. However, my friend also has the same problems with hers on the same routes, and i don't believe there's enough flex in the midsole to smear effectively. The heel cup fits my foot beautifully though, making heelhooking wonderfully easy and comfortable.

OTHER ISUES I HAVE WITH THEM:
*the opening is too small for people with wide toes, like me, making it a struggle to get them on and off.

*the rubber hasn't worn particularly well, with less than 15 days climbing on them. I've found sportiva to wear better, as well as boreal and 5:10.

*the toe rand has come unglued partially on both of them (biggy). While this is currently mainly cosmetic, the edges generated by the unsticking of the rand are sufficiently large that i believe, should i attempt any major crack routes, the rand will come free. I've returned mine to the store where i bought them and they're being sent away for assessment.

*the velcro is losing some of its power, but is not necessary for the shoe's function, which works very well as a slipper without the straps done up.

*the toe profile is very narrow, which becomes painful very quickly. however, for people with narrower feet (unlike me) these would be a nice fit.

*the lining reduces stretch very well indeed, but unfortunately seems to have trapped sweat, dead skin, and later odor neutralising powder, making them greasy inside, and smelling bad (hence the powder)

OVERALL, the good edging ability and nice tight fit are more than somewhat let down by poor wear on the rubber and sloppy workmanship on the toe rand.

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: boredwolf, 2006-08-29


My first pair of climbing shoes. Good for edging and smearing, but they wore out very quickly. The rand in the toe-box became torn, but the rubber soles were still doing fine. Also, the canvas liner in the shoe became dirty and waxy with time, and I couldn't keep my feet from slipping around in them, even considering that they were pretty tight on me. I finally threw them away for a pair of the 5.10 Moccasym.

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: talnlnky, 2006-08-15


My first shoe so its hard to give it a valid rating. It stretches so be sure to start with a smaller size. I've read reviews on other sites that complained about the durability of these shoes. Well, they are my first pair and after 6 months they are just now showing signs of wear. The rubber is starting to turn up in a few places. I figure that can easily be fixed with a nice adhiesive. They're easy to get into and velcro is a big plus, however they can be worn without the using velcro if desired because they fit tight enough.

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: hellkitten, 2006-08-11


These are my first pair of shoes and would've been awesome if the rubber hadn't delaminated around the toe the second time I wore them. I know I'm a beginner, but I don't think my footwork's *that* bad. In theory, Montrail will replace them without much fuss, which is cool but still a drag. Aside from this one major flaw, the Zealots suited me just fine. Maybe they just fit me better than the Mad Rocks I'd been renting from the gym, but it seems, from my critical albeit inexperienced view, that my feet stick to everything. They edge well, smear well, are cambered just to my liking and I can stick my toe in almost anything (probably anything if they weren't falling apart). Also, they look really cool.

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: punk_rocker333, 2006-02-25


These were my first pair of shoes, got them for $60 at the local shop. I got them about 1/2 a size small and consequently they were painful for about 2 months. These shoes do stretch, I can now wear them all day and maintain comfort. Walking around with them on at the crag is no problem. The stretch can probably be related to climbing many granite slabs and spending a lot of time on hot basalt.

I have a thin foot so the toe/forefoot area fits well, but the heel has quite a lot of dead space. Not enough for it to fall off or anything. The velcro and tight material in the forefoot keep it in place. The fit is great minus the heel.

The rubber isn't very sticky, which caused me some problems on slab routes greater then 5.8. After using shoes by La Sportiva and Scarpa I can really tell how poorly the "slyptonite" is by comparison. 9 months after purchase I've worn a hole through the rand on the right foot (probably an indicator of my poor beginer foot work).

Overall, these shoes are probably best left for overhanging and very steep routes without a lot of edging. A little too soft for that. Gym use would be good too. The rubber has something to be desired, a resole could fix that. The velcro straps have also seperated from the course rhino skin material it was attached to. I wouldn't suggest these as a beginer shoe. Can't jam in these either, quite painful. Wish the performance could equal the fit found in the forefoot area.

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