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Reviews by climbinginchico (19)

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Kaos (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: climbinginchico, 2004-07-09


I love my super Kaos. After a wait of almost 2 weeks, because of the stupid postal service screwing up and not shipping them Priority, I finally got them just in time to break them in at Tuolumne. The latest generation is perfect for Yosemite climbing. They edge superbly; find a tiny edge and they stick. It surprised me with the smearing ability too, the new version is much better than the previous model. And the super rand option I got (because I love crack climbing) helps when I stuff my toes into a finger crack. Heel hooking and toe hooking are both as good as my MR Hookers, which I never wear anymore, because the Kaos are so much more comfortable. For technical sport, nothing beats them. I have even used them for hard multipitch Trad.

Overall verdict: awesome shoe, lasting well so far, and the company has awesome support, usually replying to my emails within 10 minutes, and even offering to make (and actually making) another pair exactly like the ones that took 2 weeks to arrive. Of course I got them on the day they were going to ship the new shoes. That was awesome of them because the shoes were custom made for me with the super rand option. I recommend this shoe to anyone looking for a fairly comfortable performance shoe with awesome edging and toe power.


Quicksilver2/HotWire Straitjacket Anodized Quickdraw (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.71/5 Average Rating : 4.71/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Quickdraws

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: climbinginchico, 2004-06-08


These are the mainstay of my draws- mainly because I got a mess of them at a heck of a deal at REI. I have both the short and long dogbone versions. The gate action on the quicksilver2 is nice and smooth, and I haven't had any problems with them hanging on hangers or anything like that. The hotwire is awesome for the rope end- nice and easy to clip with no lash. If I am ever worried about the hanger biner opening I slide in a positron locker- no more worries. And I like using the dogbones with my posi lockers for TR anchors off bolts. Great product- now they just need to make them keylock nose at this price and I'm all over that.


ATC-XP Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.46/5 Average Rating : 4.46/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: climbinginchico, 2004-06-05


Great product. I love having the option for high friction, however it is overkill for most situations. I rappelled with a 40 lb pack on high friction and it was really catchy. Surprised me actually. But it is awesome for catching my partners who weigh more than me. Well made, tough, useful. Love it.


Flash 10.5 Climbing Rope (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: climbinginchico, 2004-06-05


I love my flash. It is a great workhorse rope, and holds up well. I love the dry coating, the ends ended up in a puddle on rappel once, couldnt even tell once I got down and pulled them out. It has a great hand, really awesome to knot, and a nice supple rope. Soft catch, easy to handle- I recommend this to anyone who needs a great all around rope.

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