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Gear : Reviews

Reviews by anarkhos (3)


Yosemite Bum Average Rating = 4.23/5 Average Rating : 4.23/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Resolers

Usually awesome service 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: anarkhos, 2011-01-25


I've sent over a dozen shoes to YB over the years. The ONLY time I had a problem is when they did a rand repair and the uppers stretched. They took the shoes back and replaced them. I have avoided the problem thus far by specifying I have narrow feet or that they should use a "narrow last" (tip for those of us who need it).

They seem to take pride in doing a good job and I've had good correspondence during the process. I'm a return customer sending shoes at least four times, one time for nine pairs or so. They did 1/2 size adjustments on a few with good results.

Highly recommended. Just give them as much info as possible.


Ushba Basic Ascender (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Great device if you know a specific use for it 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: anarkhos, 2008-08-12


I used the aluminum version of this ascender for two years. Last week it fell 40ft and thus I had to retire it. The titanium model may be more durable; I don't know.

I think this is an excellent item if you have a specific use for it. The main advantage of this piece is it puts practically zero wear on the rope. It has no teeth, and it feeds with very low friction. The main disadvantage is it makes a poor ascender for frogging due to how the rope feeds (it creates too much slack so it's inefficient for that purpose). Also, at least for the AL version, even though the manufacturer has instructions for solo-TR (which I used it almost exclusively for), it didn't catch well unless it was kept upright with a bungee.

Releasing under light tension is also possible by twisting the ascender. This isn't possible with toothed ascenders.

The AL version is also a tad heavy.

I think this would make an excellent haul ascender, too. If you don't like rope wear, check it out!


Calidris Climbing/Mountaineering Harness (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable

Overrated 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: anarkhos, 2008-08-12


I really don't understand the positive reviews for this harness. I think it has a lot to do with justifying the price paid and the Petzl name (which I don't think they've earned, of late).

I'll just go ahead and say it: This harness is crummy for my hips. I'm 5'10" and a Size1 is simply NOT a "XS to M"! If you're skinny, do yourself a favor and buy something else. I think this harness is popular with civil servants and other fat-sos. Tighten everything to the max and you'll still feel like a boy with big britches.

Another problem: the gear loops SUCK! They're TINY and don't hold CRAP! I can just about put a dozen wire gate biners on them, but you can forget about more traditional draws (like, ironically, Petzl draws). Tiny loops are also harder to clip stuff into, and the shape of the loops make them cluster so I'm always having to fumble for the right piece. I think Petzl is trying to get people to use their extra-special (read: proprietary) gear system which also blows. Makes me want to slap somebody.

Also, what the heck was Petzl thinking when they neglected to add a chalk bag/haul loop? I have to use the silly little elastic thing. The metal leg elastic thingy also comes off because Petzl thinks a hook is better than a clip. I think they're nuts.

It is well padded and made of durable materials, but that also adds to weight.

Bottom line: Petzl isn't in the recreational climbing business. They're in the mountain rescue, civil servant, and other assorted tools (people, not gear) market. It's probably more profitable, so good for them, but it's definitely not for me.