Since I can't seem to post a review for some odd reason:

Actual Rating I'd give this product: 4.50
I have owned these shows for approximately 1.5 months and am now able to review the Athenas with a more subjective summary.
Through a promtion at the climbing gym I regular, these shoes were purchased for approximately $49. Originally, I intended to purchase just one new pair of shoes to replace my MadRock Flash; I didn't plan purchasing boulder/competitive-esque shoes. However, I had an opportunity to demo the Athenas around the gym for a bit (as I had w/ the Defy - which I've already reviewed) and decided that for such a low price why not give it a go.
The shoe itself has a very nice firm synthetic rubber sole whose arch is such that it makes for nice heel hooking when bouldering. The velcro straps are great for a quick no-hassle release - I'm not much for lacing up. The yellow, black and white colours are neutral and don't scream, "I'm a woman specific show!!!" The inside is comfortable for the most part. The top of the shoes were the velcro crosses is quite cushy - just like the Defy. However, where my left and right big toes met the upper portion of the shoe (synthetic rubber covered approx. 1" of this area on the outside) it would sometimes rub and cause discomfort. I compare it to that of getting one's cuticles pushed back but w/ too much friction. Grant it, I knew that w/ the synthetic rubber the shoe would NOT stretch and figured that between climbs I could take the shoes off, which would offer a quick remedy.
Alright, fast forward a bit. Once the shoes arrived, I took them for a spin around the gym and then outside the following weekend. The temperature was quite chilly, which made climbing all the more akward for me. That said, I didn't get much use nor a good feeling at this point as to whether or not I liked the shoe. I figured it would take some time before getting used to a new shoe w/ a thicker new sole (then that of my old MadRock Flashes).
The next few weeks I continued to wear the shoes around the gym (I picked up Ultimate Frisbee and went back to Moutain Biking, so my weekends were packed). However, this past weekend - March 19, 2005 - I finally got to use the Athenas and really take them for a spin.
Now, I haven't mentioned much about the edging of these shoes because at this point my usage of these shoes extended to indoors (mainly) and one go outdoors (managed one memorable slab problem). Ah, but the perfect opportunity to take them to my first bouldering comp ever (to date, I've been climbing for 6 months). Boy, what a difference does nice weather and a new pair of shoes make!
The Athenas were ideal not only for edging but (aforementioned), heal-hooking, and problems that extended not just to bouldering but various slab problems (other then the one I mentioned in my first outdoor go) as well. The pushing of cuticle irritation seemed to lessen, which could be attributed to a few factors (being a woman, you girls know what I mean). The one bummer, my right ankle started to rub sore; but thankfully, no blisters (my feet are flat so the constant pushing the entire foot into an arched shoe repeatedly caused this to happen).
Overall, I really do like these shoes - they are wide enough for my feet but fit like a glove. With regard to shoe size - I choose my street shoe because of the synthetic rubber (unlike my Defy where I went a size and a half, irrc). Again, these puppies WILL NOT STRETCH.
I hope this was somewhat helpful to those women who want to try out a new bouldering-esque shoe. This said, I don't think I'd use it for an all-around shoe - I'll use my Defy for that.

Overall, good shoe for the price I purchased - wouldn't purchase for a kid though - too much dosh imo.
BLK aka Jen

Now I know that a few of you good folks are still awaiting my update re: JetBoil; admittedly, plans for the Winter have changed more often then Prince's persona. However, I will make good and update soon!


I decided to purchase a pair of Evolv:Defy for reasons: 1) my gym was running a promo for its members; these shoes particuarly were approx 1/2 the orginal cost, 2) I needed new all-around shoes as my MadRock: Flash were starting to wear (after 6 months of indoor/outdoor use, 3)I was able to demo a pair and really liked them, and 4)From a recommendation by a fellow 'family' member that I climb w/ regularly.


Now on to Evolv: Defy, or what I would esteem as the Isotoner (tm) of climbing shoes. Evolv brings a soft insole and uppersole slipper shoe ala velcro. The botton offers a rubber sole that is not only geared for extended day wear; but also good for edging and smearing. New to reviews, I checked out the
Evolv:Defy
and learned that the upper-portion is vegan friendly - so in other words, the thing is made from synthetic leather making them unyeilding.


To date the shoes are approximately 3 weeks old. In this time, they have only seen the indoors. I have used them to top rop and traverse (about 50/50) and can attest that the smearing and edging are quite noticeable vs my old worn out MadRock: Flash. Whoppity do you say?! Considering, I didn't need to break them in weeks on end, yet they easily wore in like a favorite pair of wintery gloves.... Okay, bad metaphor.


Overall, as my second all-around pair shoes purchased, I really liked them. The only two cons I found thus far, is the left-toe soeling and the availability in stores. Because of the inflexible vegan friendly leather, my left toe from the inside, seems to rub the cuticle. This could obviously be due impart to needing the cuticle pushed back or the shoe itself or uh, the water weight thing. It may be too early to figure out. But, I wouldn't contend it's a deal breaker!


Evolv shoes are currently availble online or in Cali (I used to live in the Bay Area, SF, CA). REI does not carry them, nor Hudson Trail Outfitters -- to market them, they really should be more readily available. However, my friend who recommended them said that his personal experience w/ Evolv's CS dept was more then pleasurable (re: resoling); that is very good to know. Then again, if the company gets too big, CS may decline...it's the nature of the beast.


(edited to include size commentary)
The Evolv:Defy; I went 1.5 sizes smaller and purchased a 5.5. I typically wear one size smaller then my street shoe (ladies' 7; 6 ladies' climbing - based upon my MadRock:Flash shoes -- which stretched at least a size due to wear/usage). Because of the shoe's synthetic leather, the shoe will unlikely stretch in comparison to my former MadRock:Flash shoes.


Again, this is my second pair of all-around climbing shoes, purchased for 40+ dollars. I didn't have to break them in for weeks as I did w/ my MadRock: Flash (picture, gov contrator wearing them at work w/ feet under desk just to break them in.... it took a while before they became comfy.... and, i could barely wear them hours on end in the begining....)


btw - when I use my Evolv: Athena's a bit more, I will write a review then... So far, I like them, but am not totaly crazy about them (purchased through same gym promotion). For those who want to know what to do w/ your old
Evolv:Athena,
here's one option...eeks!