I like auto lockers, and I like the action on the DMM Boa. However the top of the twist lock creates a big edge, and my 10.5 rope slides around the inside of the biner and gets stuck on that edge. Occasionally, I look down and the biner is cross loaded. I don't really have to look down to know when it's cross loaded because I can feel the rope running roughly and sawing on that edge as a feed out or take in rope. To remedy the cross loading, I slap the biner.

The Boa is a strong biner and can withstand 12 kN while cross loaded, but I would rather be in the 28 kN orientation. As a result, I cannot recommend this biner. I'm looking for a replacement for mine. I might have to switch to a screw lock model to avoid a biner with a rope trapping edge created by the top of the twist lock.

I have a pair of the original 5.10 guide(high top) approach shoes with dot rubber soles in size 13, and they are roomy and comfortable. I've climbed 5.7 cracks in them. But a size 13 in the Camp Four is way too tight--my toes are touching the front. I don't want an approach shoe that cramps my toes. Unfortunately, 5.10 doesn't make the Camp Four in a size 14. It looks like 5.10 might have taken the Nike approach and shrunk their sizing--I'm not sure why a company would choose to do that since it just creates confusion in the market place.