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Reviews by jstp (19)

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Dyneema-Lette (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-11-28


This Yates version of the web-o-lette is just as good as the Mtn Tools version, and is cheaper! If you have never used this alternative to a cordalete i highly recomend it. They are easier to untie, just as safe, less bulky and lighter. The Yates version also comes in a variety of lengths, from 4' to 16' (i think i recall seeing one this long). To use it you just clip the sewn loops to two of your anchor pieces, prefereably the ones on the outside of the anchor. Then clip the webbing through the third (and fourth, and fifth if are shaking in your boots, or the manky 1/4" rivet and nest of #1 heads doesn't inspire you) pull the resulting two loops of webbing equal and tie an 8. Quick, easy, simple, redundant.
Cons: not as versatile as a cordalete


5.5mm Titan Dyneema Accessory Cord - Package of 20 ft. Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Accessory Cord

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-11-28


A lightweight alternative to traditional bulky cordalettes. Titan cord is way lighter, and way more compact than 8mm or other larger cord, while retaining the strength of fatter strings. The main drawbacks of Titan cord are its cable-like stiffness (which never seems to really go away, only abate a little), its susceptability to hot temperatures, and price (around 1.15 a foot).
Unlike other thin high-strenght cords, Titan is made from spectra, which melts at pretty low temps. Not typically a problem, but it could be problematic if Titan was used as a fixed sling with rap rings or as a prussik. In either case repeated rope-cord friction could heat rap rings or rope-cord contact could burn and damage the Titan cord. The stiffness just makes tying knots more compicated than with normal cord, also makes it a bad prussik, other than that its just sorta anoying.
Cons: Expensive, low temperature tolerance (compared to other think cords), very stiff.


Flash 10.5 Climbing Rope (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-11-28


Mammut ropes are praised (and pricey) for a reason - they are the best. Of the severeal Mammut ropes i have owned the Flash is particularly nice, it has a perfect hand, runs silky smooth through any belay/descending device, is durable, has an excellent and confidence inspiring catch and is really purdy! I recomend sprining the extra bucks for the bi-weave pattern so you can easily find the middle. It is also available in all of climbers favorite flavors: 50m, 60m, 70m, all with or without bi-weave, dry or non-dry treated. Once you have been climbing a while, and have graduated from budget models, this is the rope you want as your workhorse.
Pros: very high quality rope and it shows, excellent handling and other properties, durrable, comes in bi-color and dry.
Cons: expensive (but worth it)


Climbing DVD - Action Adept Yosemite Valley Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75/5

In: Gear: Media: Videos and DVDs: Climbing

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-11-28


OK, i am a bit biases, as a good buddy made this video.... but that doesn't make it any less RAD! If you a lover of Yosemite Valley, toomfoolery, or climbingin general this video is for you (and is supports independant climber/filmakers). There are great shots of such stunts as the Porch Swing, a 150' swing on top of El Cap! the Alcove Drop - a 70m rope jump by Ammon (elcapbuzz) that is gut wrenching. A bunch of fottage of Shawn (metoliusshawn) and others on the Rostrum Highlines on a spectacular day, and much more (including the first Huber brothers speed ascdent of Zodiac, with hilarious commentary by them).
A video with none of the pretense of many recent climbing flics that seem to think they have deeper meaning (in many ways this one gets at that better than any of them). Also a refreshing break from dull bouldering videos - lets see where the big air in those videos is - i mean thousands of feet, not dozens!


Sheriff Average Rating = 3.94/5 Average Rating : 3.94/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-11-28


Another standard Tube style belay device. As such it performs better than many, particularly the ATC. It has two main advantages over the ATC, it has thicker side walls for greater heat dissapation, and it has a stiff metal keeper loop, which is more durable, makes handling easier and does not get sucked into the device. The rubber coated cable on the BD ATC and most other tube belay devices often gets sucked into the device, a potentially very danderous situation as the rubber is stripped off and the rope rubs aggressively over the twisted cable. Other than that it is unremarkable, is anodized for durabilitly. The metal keeper loop can heat up a bit on long rapels, but i have never had it so hot i could not comfortably grab the loop. This could occur in very long, fast decents (but then you would be using a more specialized device anyway)
Pros: Thick sidewalls for heat dissapation, stiff keeper loop, more durable than other tube style belay devices, anodized. A significant improvement on the BD ATC.
Cons: just those associated with all tube style belay devices.

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