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Reviews by rtwilli4 (2)

EVO Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

NOT all around shoe but descent 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: rtwilli4, 2008-11-04

I have been climbing in these shoes for a few months now and have mixed feelings. I have been climbing 4 to 5 full days per week: hand cracks, finger cracks, vertical face, overhanging sport... pretty much everything.

These shoes are advertised as an "all around shoe" and they don't quite make it there. They edge very well and do surprisingly well in cracks, partially because of the rubber that covers the top of the toe box. They are on par with every shoe I have climbed in for edging on TINY stuff.

However, they are not a great shoe if you plan on doing anything with an overhang, or anything you have to smear on. They come with a slightly down turned toe but lose that shape pretty quickly, as was expected. Even after they lose the shape, the toes still do an average job of pulling on steep stuff but these shoes don't heel hook very well at all. They have all of those ridges on the back which doesn't really help and may hurt from a friction standpoint. The ridges are not the problem though. The shape of the heel causes my foot to come out of the shoe when I try to pull hard on a heel hook. The shoes fit me great but the heal is just not designed to hold your foot in if you are pulling hard. The shoes do toe hook pretty well, again, because of all of the rubber on top of the toe. There is also a good amount of rubber in the arch area of the foot, which has helped me in a few steep situations where I wanted to toe hook but ended up using this arch to 'hook' with instead.

Also, the rubber doesn't impress me when I smear. They are OK, but not as good as other shoes I have climbed in for less money.

These are a descent pair of shoes but for $105, you could get a more versatile shoe for less money.

Phoenix - discontinued (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.51/5 Average Rating : 3.51/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Good beginner shoe 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: rtwilli4, 2008-10-25

My first pair of shoes. Great for beginners. I got my street shoe size but I wear my street shoes pretty tight. They are comfortable but not too big. Nothing special, but they did hold up pretty well considering my n00b footwork. I still climb in them when I'm guiding, so I don't wear out my other shoes.