Disappointed: (not a "Multi-purpose shoe")
Review by: sthcrag510, 2007-09-24
When you read this review one must keep in mind that I have been wearing the Five Ten Galileo's for over two years now and this review is kind of a comparison. I bought this shoe to see if it would be an all around good trad shoe.
-I have a big foot and wear a size 12 in a Galileo so I ordered a pair of 12's in the V-Miles but they ended up running a little big. My guess is that sense they are an all day shoe they may run a little bigger for comfort. So I ended up returning them and getting a pair of 11.5's which fit great. So I would recommend trying to find a place that carries them and trying them on first or order them from somewhere that has a good exchange or return policy.
-Side note: Heel cup is not as aggressive as other five ten shoes. But fits rather nice.
- The toe box to the arch of your foot is sloshy. Resulting in bad hot spots after relatively short use. Although this might have been a result of the break in period it does not negate the sloshyniss.
-The V-Mile has many features that are nice. First off they are Velcro which makes for easy entry and exit.
-Padded tongue is nice (I prefer the split tongue of the Galileo better).
-Has Oynx rubber which is hands down awesome.
-Has padded heels which makes them very comfortable at hanging belaying or if you
have to walk off.
-Burly toe rand. Rubber extends higher than normal.
- One thing I did not like was the partial red lining which left your feet red once you took them off.
- One other complaint is the length of the Velcro straps. Way to long.
-Coming from the Galileo background I am used to a more high performance/technical shoe. This being said one of the first things I noticed when I took them out of the box was the shape of the sole in the toe area. Itís fairly rounded compared to the Galileo which are fairly pointed. So right off the bat I knew they were going to be a lot different. As far as actual performance/usage goes. They work great on slab. I wore them in North Carolina on Looking Glass and cruised through a section of eye brow slab with ease. Naturally I was quite happy with them at that point. A few weekends later I headed out to do some climbing thats more or less face climbing with a few splitter finger cracks. First lead I hopped on was a broken up face climb. Shoes did sub par. Terrible at smearing, edging was decent. Foot slipped off multiple times one time resulting in a small fall. Next lead I did was a finger splitter. I thought I would see how they did in the crack climbing department. They did horrible. Fell in the first ten feet. Could not toe jam to save my life. Almost impossible to even get the toe of the shoe in the crack to even try. So finally I lowered of and put my Galileo's on and was able to toe jam and cruised it with no problem. I was quite disappointed in the shoes after that weekend.
- The V-Mile is no means a performance/technical shoes. Which is a known fact seeing that Five Ten says itís an all day shoe. But one would think it would perform well in different types of climbing not just one. If your looking for a shoe to do long multi-pitch slab routes and enjoy comfort this is the shoe for you. These shoes have the potential to be a nice splitter shoe. When I say splitter I am talking about perfect hands and up. Nothing smaller then that. But if your looking for a shoe that does well in multiple area's of climbing whether itís thin cracks, face, etcÖ I might look elsewhere. I will continue to test them in different areas and see if they get better with age. But for now they will only come out on multi-pitch slab endeavors.