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Who is this guy? And why does he have my #16 cam?

Who is this guy? And why does he have my #16 cam?



This is photo #2 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

Here's a shot of Steve Gerberding, graciously posing in front of his nemesis, El Capitan, with my #16 Valley Giant cam. I was just about to head up to the base of Scorched Earth, when I ran into Steve standing on the bridge at El Cap Meadows.

He'd just come off his one-hundredth ascent of the Big Stone, climbing the Dihedral Wall for his first time, in record speed, with Hans Florine, who was also making his hundredth ascent of the Stone. Steve and Hans have many speed records on El Capitan, but I think that was the first time they'd teamed up to do one. You can click here to open another browser window and read about El Capitan speed ascents.

Steve doesn't need any such giant cam to go up anything. He is a Big Wall Master on at least three continents. He was just being a good sport for the camera.

I did my first big wall with Steve back in October of 1983. We swung leads on the Lost Arrow Direct. It took us two days after fixing two pitches.

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Rating:Average Rating = 3.56/5 | Votes: 9 | Comments: 9

Submitted by: apollodorus on 2003-01-28 | Views: 3280

Comment 4 out of 5 stars thomasribiere on 2002-11-23
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Do such cams really exist or is it just a fake one?
Comment eurobiner on 2002-11-28
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it exists and it is called a BFC!
Comment rck_climber on 2002-11-28
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I assure you they do, Tom makes them himself. Simply amazing!!
Comment 5 out of 5 stars apollodorus on 2003-01-21
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That #16 was a one-off I made for Scorched Earth. I mostly wanted to get a photo of the thing in action. You don't really need a cam like that for a squeeze chimney.
Comment biff on 2003-01-28
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Always remember .. its NOT how you use it .. Its The Size that Counts!
Comment kevlar on 2003-02-03
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what does a monster like that weight...? rack me up...a dude...very nice
Comment 5 out of 5 stars apollodorus on 2003-02-06
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Heavy Metal, man. Heavy Metal. The #9 is just under 1 kg, the #12 just over, and the #16 you don't want to know. Actually, since the #16 had plywood cams, it wasn't that bad.
Comment ritwik on 2003-02-26
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Comment evanwish on 2008-12-16
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plywood? what was the breaking strength of that?