Photos by cgoble

A reasonable slab with nice views down to the Prince of Whales. Also the site of a low angled, thin winter ice climb

These are normal conditions on the slab. The route is different in character from most of the other routes in the Rockies. Similar in feel to Shampoo Planet.

Sometimes a thinner route comes into shape on the left side of the slab.

Average shape of the main climb. The wings off to the side usually don't form.

The usually ice melted curtain. Taken late in the day

This rarely formed ice smear occasionaly comes into shape. It is two long pitches.

This is along the end of the first knife edge ridge in early Nov.

This is along the end of the second knife edge ridge. You can avoid difficulties by sticking to a game trail on the west side.

This is along the end of the second knife edge ridge. You can avoid difficulties by sticking to a game trail on the west side.

This is near the end of the second knife edge ridge. Do not head down apparently easy gullies to the east.

After the second knife edge, you have to again ascend some easy ground to reach the rounded ridge that leads to the summit.

1. Start for Long Decision (5.7) 2. Start for Local Decision (5.9)

Head up to the good ledge to set up a belay on Cams, before making an easy traverse to a fixed station. There is an anchor on top of the pillar directly above the first pitch. This route has not yet been climbed.

A long shot of a some of the great ice climbs in the park.

A long distance shot of the ice climbing area as seen from the large hill past the park gate. (Look south)

The left hand route in the picture is the one of choice. The right hand line, however, is the one most people do. A pillar sometimes forms near the left route, although it is not in the picture.