Photos by hlehmann

Two climbers finishing up just before sunset, at Malibu Creek State Park.

Autumn 1988. We only had two days in North Conway, and on the 2nd one it rained, but at least we got this climb in. Looking down from the 2nd belay.

Most of this route is pretty grungy, but it's got a nice exit crack at the top. This is in the Tourist Trap area, a north facing wall uphill & to the right of Aviator Wall

Thin fingers & smearing as you near the anchor.

A string wind might blow this rotten formation over.

We managed to get up about 7 pitches before retreating. There were still another 4 pitches to go before reaching the large headwall shown in the picture. Acres & acres of polished granite to be found here.

Joe King on the 1st pitch of Angel's Approach. Bouldery start, but then a nice lie-back for the rest of the pitch.

Easy toprope for the kids if you use a 60 meter rope.

That's me making the long step. Pro goes in the crack above you, once you reach the outside corner the climb continues up.

The climb is pretty steep, but the holds are great. I don't know why this climb doesn't get more traffic than it does.