Photos by michael

My first climb on a rope sometime around 1988, and no respectable trad climber would ever be seen in anything but the brightest colors, with matching rope of course.

After a long morning of getting up this climb, I lost a little weight and decided that I might as well leave my panties behind. I missed the flowery silk rubbing against the netherlands, but kept a couple more pair for each summit we tagged that day....

I liked the pink zebra stripes so much on my first couple of adventures, I had to stick to the same color coordination - quickdraws included. This pic was sometime around 1989/1990. Photo by Mark Niles.

There are days out climbing when you do things you might regret later on. For me, I don't carry any regrets, but sometimes three simple words explain what might have caused the problems....

This is a picture of just four feet of a route at Malibu called approariately enough "white trash" that not only was chipped and glued, then routed out for a pocket and with each hold spray painted to match the bolt perfectly. The rest of the route looks pretty much the same. This is exactly the type of stuff that will create closures by rangers and land managers.

Here's a photo of me taking a break... i.e. changing tunes in the middle of "Taxman" (10a).

A couple months ago the weather at Indian Cove was perfect. Warm in the sun, crisp in the shade. On those days, there are times when holds are the size of Buicks, and the rock feels stickier than flypaper. This photo was taken during a standard "100 lap" day.

Tom Bristow working this classic of Stoney Point. John Yablonski put it up sometime in the mid-eighties and though a couple holds have changed over the years, it still remains an all time "dues payer" where only a few dare to pull the upper crux. If you look closely, you can see that the legend lives on....

Art and I hadn't been to Tahquitz in quite a while. My excuse was the desert, Art's a bit more emotional after witnessing last year's accident. Talking about it, the two of us decided that it was time to head on out and have some fun. Other than a bit of snow, the day was one more to remember those that were here before us.

Chelsea Griffie leading up the crux pitch of Don Juan (5.11b). She sent this route with such ease, the belayer basically fell asleep at the wheel :) Photo by Warren Hughes

This wild route has been calling for several years (and rrrAdam resparked the interest when he showed it to me recently). Rumor has it someone did the first portion of the crack but finished without doing the roof. The roof was a bit dirty and difficult to protect, but after about halfway, it was time for a rest.... Photo by Marci Reardon.

The wind made it difficult to climb in the Monument proper, so off we went to Indian Cove for a little fun in the sun. Of course with everything so close to the roads, it also meant twice as many routes. After two days and a couple dozen routes, it was time for one last one. Unfortunately, a wide, grainy hand crack was the chosen and vampires apparently live inside!

Just another day in Vegas where the women make the climbing look easy. Here's Monica a couple years back during filming of the "Climb On!" Series, reaching for the impossible and providing an eyeful for those who forgot about puberty.

Here's another angle of what's in store for those that tackle this particular problem. Unfortunately, it's the spotter that has the worst position of the house. Next time, it's "Vulgarian" style :)

Vaino Kodas first did this arete back when crashpads were chunks of carpet, and fire hadn't cleaned out the Sumac. Diana came out to play one day and with a glowing smile, worked her way up the arete. Of course the smile lost some of it's luster as she neared the mantel up top....

There are holds you gently go after, then there are holds that you slap like the backside of a one-night stand. Here, Mark's using those muscles and remembering a night in Tijuana so many years ago....

Once you get through the crux moves down low, then another 10 feet of 5.8 crack send you over the top. Here's Diana out bouldering and laughing at any possibility of Tom and Mike catching her if she heads for the frequent flyer miles.

Those that know Adam know the art of conversation is not dead. However, I have found the secret to silence. It's 20 feet up, on fryable edges of soft sandstone, where a deadpoint slap to a sloper was the difference between sufferage and salvation.... Of course having a few spotters didn't hurt the confidence level :) Nice send brotha'!

A crisp morning and it was time to work this problem yet one more time. Every move is a fight with a finishing move that continues to spit off most. This time was no different, as the belt-sanding stone ripped another tip to shreds....

On a sticky day, this classic is one of the best to do. Starting with a tricky body tension move, then easing into steepness with jugs, until a final toss to a sloper, high step, and head out of there. Sure to gain some claps whenever a touron stops by to ruin the moment ;) Photo by Nikki Reardon

Not sure the exact name of this one. It's been around for a decade or so and redefines sloper strength. Here, Dimitrius Fritz tests the friction power of the last hold.

This classic problem at Stoney is pretty much a sandbag for many who travel through. It's only got four holds, each of them a reach, each of them harder than the move before. This shot is of the last hold before the mantel. Blow the mantel, plan on losing skin or an ankle.

Buried in Condor Country in Southern California lies a reservoir of bullet proof sandstone and more than 1,000 problems, as long as you can withstand the 3+ mile approach and a strict code of ethics - i.e. no tools! Just chalk, shoes, crashpad, and spotter. This shot is of Jeff Johnson on a "moderate" (V7ish), trying to wedge his fingernails behind a tiny flake before firing for the top - 20 feet up!

At the Swimming Hole, modern V ratings for bouldering are pushed back to the more favorable "Easy" "Moderate" "Hard" and "What the f@$k?". In this photo, Jeff is staying dry by holding tight on this untitled "hard" (V8ish) overhang.

This problem, called "XXX" after the classic punk bands of yesterday is only a "moderate" (V6ish) in terms of physical strength, but with the crux up high, and the career enders down low, the mental aspects of this problem rate it a V9 for the mental factor.